mikeyd Posted December 18, 2019 Posted December 18, 2019 Just wondering if there's anything you guys have tried to shave weight? I have already shaved parts of the frame, (steering stops, foot peg mounts, brackets, etc.) And removed unused parts of the fairing bracket like the turn signal mounts. Also stripped wire harness of unused wires, using modern gsxr rims and forks, bars. Not comfortable with removing the top frame brace or kickstand and mount. Was thinking more about the generator and starter to start with. Is there any other models (like a bandit 600) that is compatible? Sprocket cover ,Valve cover, or other bolt on things? What are road race guys doing? It is drag bike, but I would like to keep a headlight and taillight. I have heard about using a 750 starter clutch but not sure. And using a 93-95 zx7 headlight. Is it worth getting frame modified to accept a different subframe? Quote
IceKat Posted December 19, 2019 Posted December 19, 2019 The most effektive weight reduction can be achieved by cutting out beer and pies 1 Quote
clivegto Posted December 19, 2019 Posted December 19, 2019 Throw everything you don't need away. Personal I just fitted a turbo, now have more than 1hp per kg. 3 Quote
Swirl Posted December 19, 2019 Posted December 19, 2019 2 hours ago, IceKat said: The most effektive weight reduction can be achieved by cutting out beer and pies True story Quote
mikeyd Posted December 20, 2019 Author Posted December 20, 2019 IceKat! You just sucked all the life out of my mildly fun life! Bike already is turbo. Quote
kiwisuzuki1100nz Posted December 20, 2019 Posted December 20, 2019 7 hours ago, IceKat said: The most effektive weight reduction can be achieved by cutting out beer and pies Very true. I shaved 10kgs so far and cost me nothing. I haven't cut out beer however as I still need a soul to ride Quote
zedhead Posted December 20, 2019 Posted December 20, 2019 Drag bike? Depending on the tracks that you use, you could remove one of the front discs and caliper, and go through the bike from front to back ensuring that all fasteners are the optimum sizes. A cable clutch conversion will be lighter than a hydraulic set-up, easily done using B600 parts. And then you need to start spending money - carbon fibre wheels, lightweight bodywork, ally tank titanium fasteners, spindles etc. Also remember that the Slabby was a very light bike as standard, the the GSX-R didn't return to the Slabby's weight for nigh on 20 years... Quote
Dezza Posted December 20, 2019 Posted December 20, 2019 As zedhead states, after changing the obvious - wheels, brakes, exhaust, rearsets, lights, clocks (a koso unit weighs next to SFA) etc., - further weight saving can get very expensive so it all depends on how deep your pockets are. Quote
Oilyspanner Posted December 20, 2019 Posted December 20, 2019 The lithium battery and ally holder are very easy and not that costly (easy to make an aluminium holder using pop rivets/low temp welding rods). All the things that have been said, plus reduce all revolving mass you can, ally sprocket, smaller chain, lighter discs and make sure the inner wheel bearing spacers are aluminium to drop a bit of weight - plus use lightweight construction tyres. Quote
mikeyd Posted December 20, 2019 Author Posted December 20, 2019 Great ideas guys. Never thought about the wheel spacers. And Zed gave me an idea about bolts - Maybe drilling them out on non stressed ones. I remember 96-03 gsxr's had a few hollow bolts on the pinch bolts and subframe mount. Titanium, ouch! Quote
Oilyspanner Posted December 21, 2019 Posted December 21, 2019 On the bolts etc - if it's highly stressed I've left them as steel, otherwise Ti, if lightly stressed - ally and even nylon on some (nylon bolts don't vibrate out either and weigh next to nothing). Ti works out expensive, but over a few years I've changed over most of my bolts outside of the engine internals with Ti, Al and nylon, but I doubt I've saved more than a kilo or so - my Lithium battery and ally holder saved slightly over 4 kg alone, for a cost of £90, you've got to make sure your charging system is in spec. with a Li battery. You can run the bike total loss on the track and refit the alternator for the road, worth a couple of hp and saves some weight. Quote
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