cluster wont turn on bike wont start

[v-twinwalker]

i have a 1982 suzuki gs650 gl, and i bought a used forkset and tree and the forks were bent so i returned both and am getting a new front end, but while i was taking off the tree i had to have pulled something loose, i also took off everything except the clutch off the bars if that makes a difference, but anyway my nothing on my gauge cluster will turn on or the indicators or the headlight, but my horn still works. when i put my key in the ignition and turn it i can hear the buzzing like electricity every few times i do it in the ignition switch box, i did want to rewrap all the wiring bc its old and all but i was wondering if i could just do a quick fix if you know where the problem is, please if you have any idea it'd help, thankyou.

ill post pics of the bike at some point 

Edited September 6, 2019 by v-twinwalker

[BigT]

Remove your gas thank.

There's several large plugs there you may have pulled apart

[no class]

is there not a ground wire to upper triple on those models?

[v-twinwalker]

this is the blueprint of the wiring harness dont know if this'll help any  

[v-twinwalker]

so i checked under the tank and did a thorough check inside the lamp, nothing was unplugged, under the tank nothing was unplugged. i know electricity surges because of the horn, im just not sure where it stops at. im going to eventually take the tank off all the way and make sure i didnt miss anything but i could see perfectly fine it was pulled back to where i could see the wiring from above.

 

Edited September 6, 2019 by v-twinwalker

[imago]

Have a good look at the back (wire side) of the multi-plugs, the pins and sleeves can sometimes back out of the plastic surround.

The little metal tabs on them weaken or flatten over time with vibration, or sometimes they don't quite line up when they're pushed together. Either of which can mean that even though the two halves of the plastic connector blocks are fully home one/some of the contacts aren't quite mating up.

[BigT]

Time to break out the multimeter

The starter just needs power to the right hand control

[v-twinwalker]

ok sorry guys i dont have much knowledge so i dont know where im supposed to be looking at, i guess ill say another things is that where the plugs click together they can still be pushed in a bit more is that something i shouldnt do. right now  i just have my lamp and cluster sitting on eachother in a mess of wires because i dont have a tree to place them on. im gonna take pics see if thatll help you help me

Edited September 7, 2019 by v-twinwalker

[Dezza]

Has a fuse blown?

[v-twinwalker]

let me ask yall this, and no a fuse wasnt blown ill check again to just make sure. is there a possibility theres a sensor in one of the controls that would hold onto a handlebar, everything is off of my bars except the clutch but i notice theres metal sheeting on the inside of the controls that grasp around the bar, and my brothers not a motorcycle mechanic but he does know cars pretty well, and he did say there could be a mechanical sensor on it. also under the tank there is one thing not plugged in and its a orange wire but theres nothing to connect it too, and there is a wire that looks like it was snipped inside my lamp, its connected to something that looks like a small horn, a really small horn, but i dont know what it is., pics will be here soon sorry

[Gixer1460]

There is no 'sensor' inside the switch unit - its just part of the clamp to give mechanical strength. Any Orange colour wire is a 'key on' live - under the tank the obvious one is Orange / white which would feed the coils. Can't imagine what would be in the headlight cowling - alarm horn maybe?....... if an alarm is fitted then you could be in a world of pain as they interfere with all sorts of circuits! 

[v-twinwalker]

on the picture of the main part of the harness the wires that trail off are for the horn, that liitle speaker looking thing is what has 1 of the two gray wires snipped, not sure what the orange and green wire is next to my horn but it wasnt plugged, and that orange wire wasnt plugged but theres nothing for it to go into.

[Captain Chaos]

Those small horn-like things in the 2nd pic are not original Suzuki. Could be from an alarm / immobiliser system, or turn signal buzzers. 

[v-twinwalker]

well, its cut on one of the wires, and i dont think it was an alarm i hope not my bike never made any noise like thered be one. ill take pics inside the lamp soon to show where its connecting

 

update its connected to a wire that goes to my clutch why would my clutch have a wire on it? 

update: forgot its suzuki, possible its a immobilizer since i have to pull in clutch to start but if it was cut beforehand than thats not my issue as to why it wont start or nothing turn on

 

 

Edited September 10, 2019 by v-twinwalker

[v-twinwalker]

more pics, in first pic (in headlamp) u can see the gray wire with electric tape connected to the green wire but it only inserts there, then a top view and all my fuckn wires n shit for my headset in a mess, i wanna get rid of this mess but then again after everything put together u dont see it. 

Edited September 10, 2019 by v-twinwalker

[Blubber]

It sounds like a bad earth / ground.

The horn is working so the battery should be okay-ish to switch on some of the idiot lights. Helps to keep it fully charged for the testing period.

- Disconnect battery now.

Check the big fat black wire from battery toward frame for continuety . Might even be a wide Lytzen style strap. 

Measure small black wire from battery towards loom.

Next step (for me) would be to check the main feed RED wire towards the fuse box. These things tend to corrode over the years and break. 

Measure every resistance from plug to the fuse holders, measure without fuses , install new fuses.

Measure the contacts on the ignition.. usualy one circuit is for signals.. the other ignition stuff

- install and connect Battery.

Measure voltage on the orange wires after switching on the ignition. Orange is the Switched live.

 

Still should give you some starters on where the root cause lies.

[v-twinwalker]

okay so i checked the fusebox again just messing around, my main fuse is blown, would that shut everything off i really hope it does so i dont have to break out a multimeter

just to make sure theres not supposed to be a split between the metal right its not connected inside the glass box but the rest are

 

Edited September 11, 2019 by v-twinwalker

[Gixer1460]

Er yeah - thats why its called the 'Main fuse'! Problem is why didn't you check that first and why did it pop in the first place?

[v-twinwalker]

27 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Er yeah - thats why its called the 'Main fuse'! Problem is why didn't you check that first and why did it pop in the first place?

i did check i just didnt look at it good obviously lol, is it possible from holding the starter too long? i did hear a pop from my bike when i was trying to get it going and i thought it was from exhaust but maybe it was that, also sparks are prob bad dont know if that would do it. look man im a noob at this shit lol im learning as i go

Edited September 12, 2019 by v-twinwalker

[v-twinwalker]

everyone i am a confirmed dumb dumb

[Gixer1460]

For future reference - continued cranking will not pop a fuse as the starter isn't fused. Fuses generally only fail due to 1. excessive current draw ie. there is a short circuit or 2. vibration and age. The glass tube fuses are least reliable due to construction, next are ceramic types with exposed fuse metal link - these suffer from corrosion and poor contact in fusebox. Last type are modern blade types - very reliable and easy to see failure but can be prone to bad contacts in holders. Worth removing any fuse at least once a year to check. clean and apply a bit of Vaseline to contact points.

[v-twinwalker]

thanks dude once i get the parts i need ill put em on and see what happens

 

[v-twinwalker]

wait so wat fukn fuse do i get they all sound like they suck

 

[Gixer1460]

4 hours ago, v-twinwalker said:

wait so wat fukn fuse do i get they all sound like they suck

If you can't work that one out - sell your tools and take the bike to a mechanic who does - not being funny but this seems to be way above your pay grade!

[v-twinwalker]

22 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

If you can't work that one out - sell your tools and take the bike to a mechanic who does - not being funny but this seems to be way above your pay grade!

not rly u just said they all have issues so i was just sayin and how would a blade type fit on this i just got the glass ones