v-twinwalker

yeah my bike ran a bit rich it definently was tampered with, wish i could give updates but im just waiting for some parts to get down to the carbs again, i wouldnt wanna mess with it if im not gonna be able to see the affect while im doin it.

yeah i meant the internals thank god i was boutta look like a fukn idiot cuz i mixed and matched them

ill check it the people on gsresources gave me a good one that went over every bit and piece, i dont know if i want to tear my carbs apart like they showed me because it involves seperating them into individual carbs, are the pieces mix and match? im not sure because i know there is a main carb then the others but maybe thats just how they get fuel. i forget who gave me the site for o-rings and stuff like that but thankyou and then thankyou everyone who keeps telling me im wrong because i am lol and gives me better advice. hopefully i wont be on here repeatedly asking why my bike wont start and itll be up when i get my parts for it.

i did find this and i looked at this chart but obviously didnt know what parts actually do what but yeah my pilot air screw is non adjustable i was stressing over it thinking thats what i was supposed to be adjusting, as for the caps that cover the pivot screw they have already been took off before i didnt know there was even a cap that covers them, im not touching it itll be left alone until i know what im even doing to balance them out. i will be getting a manual, heres what i found out. 1) the bike wont start or want to start if i run it with no airbox/pods, which it didnt so ill be putting them back on i didnt realise it would stop it from wanting to run at all, 2) my fuel valve was leaking and flooded my float bowls while i was trying to get it started. 3) i just need to read things myself before asking question over question. the people on gsresources said get ur bike started before you even begin to mess with ur idle mixture, but yall are saying id need to take them out to properly clean the carbs, should i count the number of turns it is to take them out, or just leave it alone and focus on what i did wrong the first time before moving on to the next thing. i have a sense of hope since i didnt mess up any adjustments and that itll be back soon.

ive looked on this site and went all through my manual and i couldnt find the number of turns im supposed to do, im gonna be looking on gs-resources more since its specified more for my bike

yeah no i noticed that when i first started doing it and buying oem used parts off Eblag gets you with the shipping costs, when i first called a shop they said they dont work on older bikes because opening it up can cause more problems. i guess im just trying to rush it because i need it to get around, i have my tire and everything works on the bike except my fuel valve and obviously it wont start hopefully because the carbs, im sure it is because the bikes ran before and we thought it ran on 3 cylinders because a spark test and a cylinder wasnt showing any change of tone and then we turned the idle up and all 4 showed a change in tone, i have the fuel valve already ordered and ill be reading more about it before i touch the carbs again. i also agree i dont think the spray does much i mean it got majority and i also had to wipe hard on some spots a bit because the spray wasnt getting the rust out but the carbs werent terribly dirty, i definitely wanna do the gel or acitone whatever it is and get them looking new. yes im that guy but i wont be always i hope it changes later on i worried alot right when i got the bike because it did smoke when the dude first started it up and it was sitting for a while and also it was posted for $1000 and he said yes to 750 right away and i got it for 700. my buddy ran the shit out of it on the way home and it was a 30 minute drive back and nothing went wrong and the smoke was barely even visible, it ended up stopping alltogether, i ran it all the time for the next two days would start right up then it shut off on me twice during a little longer of its usual ride when i pulled the clutch in to downshift and stop and then it ended up sitting at my friends and i wanted to start it weekly but it ended up not happening that way and then it didnt wanna start. i was impatient to get a bike because i was looking for over two months and the day i was gonna check out a old virago the dude cancelled an i was just like im getting a bike today.

its my pilot air jet that i took out, it says specification is #160, does that make sense? does it mean degrees? im looking at a manual online. saw nothing about tuning my air fuel mixture i saw balancing carbs but thats mainly it. i have mikuni bs32ss carbs so ill look them up maybe itll help.

im gonna take pics of the carbs to make sure what im talking about is the right thing just cant be safe enough

here is my last thing i have to say, i cant have my airbox on when i work with the air ratio. ill put on the original airbox and leave the idea of ITBs out of my head for a while. im assuming i just have to look up the standard spec for the number of turns i do, but does anyone know it off hand. im still gonna be looking it up i need to learn more since im gonna have to take this over.

yes i still havent got a manual and yea it took me like 4 different posts before i opened the carbs and saw they needed cleaning, ur not wrong when you say what to do just dont deliver it in the nicest way. ill stop doing dumb things and stick to just fixing it.

you're right i just dont really know what im doing and the more i learn the more i realise i dont know much. if i had a chance to get a different and simpler bike i wouldve, but i cant now and i like it too much to sell it.

yeah i was thinking that right before i checked this, its just a complete pain in the ass to get the first half of my airbox back in, i saw a vid just watching people work on projects and he said hes gonna rejet the carbs since hes doing pods so thats steering me away from the idea guess ill just have pods sitting till i wanna use them. i have things ordered i am gonna try again when i get the fuel valve and gaskets, then im gonna open the carbs up again prob just from the float bowls to do the gaskets quick i did the cleaning good, i had no clue i messed with my air fuel ratio if i knew it was that screw i wouldnt have done it.

fuck me i gotta do it myself the shop thatll work on my bike has 5 projects before me and i found out that the carb clean vid i used had me take out my airscrews and didnt tell me how to put them back in correctly so now i know about turns(wish i didnt take em out at all). gonna wait till i get the new fuel valve first but im gonna do 1 1/2 turns, hopefully thee bike starts up and ill finer tune from there, do i have to redo the air fuel ratio when putting pods on my carbs? guys how fucked am i

if my vacuum fuel valve leaks at all when its just on "on" does that mean it needs a rebuild it just leaks a little but leaking is leaking, also i need to use pliers to turn it because its so hard to turn this could help torubleshoot my fuel delivery problem from the last time i ran the bike yeah leaks even more since i said this and its been only an hour, im gonna order a new one i cant find one that looks like this. im probably just gonna bring it to a shop idk whats wrong anymore i only got 1 pop out of it, im sure the gasket cut outs i made dont help, but i did assemble the carbs correctly and cleaned them very well but i know thats not always the problem, well, im putting my white flag up.

yeah i talk in a mess

atleast on boot 4 theres no gasket ive took it off a couple times just to look at my valves but it must be squished so hard that its stuck on the boot or engine or its not there at all, when i put it back on theres no pressure build up when tightening like if there was a gasket it just sits flat against the engine, when i opened carbs there was also no o rings so i think certain parts were just took off and not put back on since theyre not "necessary". ill make a list of the things i should get starting with the boot gaskets and some o-rings, ill check the condition when i take off the boots to make sure if i need new boots or not with the carbs my floats were also all a bit too high, also my gaskets were too thin i got feltpro gaskets so i traced them on some cardboard/paper and made extra ones to thicken the gasket so my float bowls would sit correctly and not wobble, i made sure to make holes for the needle and the other hole next to it dont know what it is i just know some stuff bout carbs. if i have to take my carbs off again which i think its possible im just not hoping for it, ill order another pair of feltpro gaskets to overlay on the first pair, and get o rings and then the boot gaskets. ill definitely be checking for vacuum leaks once i put carbs on and fire up tell me if the paper gaskets are dumb i know gas sits in ur float

on my bike i have 4 boots and boot 1-3 are not gonna move the screws are in tight as can be and im not gonna try to remove them, boot 4 however was very easy to take off and i didnt struggle at all, cylinder 4 was always the one with the lowest temp too so i dont know if theres any leaking from the boot or not, that being said, is it a bad idea to use something like rtb to just go around it with to make some sort of gasket, and why isnt there gaskets inbetween ur boots an engine? i feel like the first question will answer the second but still im curious. on a side note boot 4 and also carb 4 were very easily accesible it seems like it was very recently ran through before i got the bike, do you think somebody did a compression test and number 4 was low? what other reason would somebody take those off and only those not all 4. maybe just to check the condition of them. update i got my gaskets a couple days ago and i finally started doing things tonight my tree and forks this time were perfectly fine so i got hope that my bike will be up very soon so it gave me motive to rerun through the carbs and now im currently putting them back together, a little discolouration came out of them but not alot so i did decent the first time cleaning them, not to mention they did sit for a few weeks, but now id say theyre cleaned well for using spray and not a gel that sits on them, if they need recleaning yeah ill be using gel so they sit. front tire comes Wednesday and aslong as everything goes well itll be back on the road when the tires on.

how do i reach suzuki san

fuk u its bout to be up in a couple days everythings been clean in carb cleaner and rinsed in hot water and im boutta do it again just before i get the gaskets

has anyone ever tried or thought of running a air filter on the second half of ur airbox to make space in ur frame for whatever or weight savings it sounds like people wouldve thought about this before but i dont wanna mess with how my air flow works i know that the airbox is designed a specific way. it just sounds like a sweet middle of a full box and the pods if it goes the way it does in my head that u wont lose any power band if the carbs arent synced correctly and ur getting a shorter distance for airlflow and more direct. heres what the airbox looks like the air filter would go in the big hole on the piece that conects to carbs, it is an oval shaped hole so id have to do something with fitment

Eblag is the best place for me atleast im in the us and suzuki rebuild kits usually are really cheap, if its been sitting for a year it may not need a full rebuild u could just need like gaskets but im not saying its wrong to just get all new pieces, theres a 25-30 min vid on cleaning mikuni carbs and its very informative beginner or not. if the tank is rusted tho u can order a tank restoration kit off kbs coatings ill link these things in the end, use the rust remover just enough to make it be able to thrash around in the tank and shake that shit for a long time im talking like i did it for 2 hours atleast but i had it looking brand new with a few bad spots that were super dark spots, u dont have to use the coating and if u dont want to u can order the kit stuff seperate but if u get the sealant u never worry about rust again. also im pretty sure u can switch to a manual petcock instead of a vacuum with minor adjustments id search it up just to make sure i gues theyre more reliable in terms of not needing rebuilds (not saying ur vacuum is gonna end up breaking but they can) but the reason theres vacuum ones is because u can just forget about it and not worry about flooding ur carbd. use seafoam too if u been running the bike with a rusty tank im sure the valves are dirty and if its a 80s bike u should run non ethanol if u have a station close by u dont need to but it can wear the valve seals out overtime if they sit with ethanol. also idk how much u know about bikes im just telling u what i know but u just use the prime for like a couple seconds just to let some gas run but dont just leave it on again i dont know what u know about bikes lol not saying ur dumb also make sure ur idles high enough u might be able to find a online service manual if u dont get a actual one its like $25 Gas Tank Sealer - Large Motorcycle Tank Sealer Kit - Fiberglass Tank Sealer carb clean video

im just fucking broke guys ive been out of a job for a bit over a month and i left because i wasnt getting paid shit and i was unhappy being stuck and watching people who got hired after me move up, i even trained somebody for togo right before they took me out because i couldnt deliver. im just not tryna end up in a fast food joint. the bikes the only thing keeping me couraged but i cant work on it because its money problems, i have $0 and i cant be lent any money because i have to pay bills in my mom and stepdads house. life just sucks right now. i know the bike deserves more i dont wanna neglect it i go and look at it everyday and clean off dust or anything that collects on it and i just try to find something i can do to improve it. i know its old and thats the reason i want to get it working right because i want it to have a long life ahead of it, i enjoy working on it and i had enjoyed when i fixed something that was broken and understanding how it works, and having a certain appreciation knowing im the one who did it. i love these machines, i just need a job to fix it.

im not sure but are you saying that i should find a piston the same size cheaper. also ill add the on the outer ring where my piston goes there is rust too, i pu them back together and now they sync correctly when pressurized but still dont retract. but i didnt gett all the rust out of the pits but i got most out, think they were sitting with the brake stuck so the piston exposed and thats why all the corrosion is on the edges of them

im saying its $60 for some 80s brakes i cant right now no job. it wasnt working when i first got it anyways but i just wanna get everything working.

my pistons on my rear brakes are pitted all over and rusted bad in spots i cant get out and its $60 for a rebuild kit on a bike that doesnt have that good of brakes for todays standards. does anyone know if theres other brakes i can put on this? if there isnt how much work would it be to do a brakeswap