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Harris Magnum - where to put everything


Dezza

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Posted

I removed the pointless hydraulic clutch conversion and went back to the stock cable set up so whilst I was at it I took some pics of my bike with its bodywork off. I have had this bike for 32 years. Unlike most Magnums it still has the original bodywork. If someone is building a Mag 2 then these pics may help, especially if the stock bodywork is being used, as getting the seat secure can be a bit awkward.

 

As is clear, I am reluctant to spend 1,500 quid on a fancy paint job.....

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  • Like 9
Posted

Stock seat has a lid above the battery box. Inside is an M6 nut that holds the top foam bit of the seat to the main unit. This has to be loosened so the top part of the seat can be lifted slightly so as to gain access to the two bolts that hold the main seat unit to the frame.IMGP0895.thumb.JPG.ace0c98096c5813c7fed8b8a161cfcde.JPG

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The other two mounting screws are simple to get at and obvious. The main seat then lifts off. My bike has the battery box welded onto the main frame, which Harris started to do after many other attempts to prevent the rear seat units cracking. As is clear, the frame has not been attacked in the past by some half-wit armed with an angle grinder. Right from the off, getting all the road electrics onto a Magnum frame was a problem, especially as it was impossible to get decent wiring equipment until about 15-20 years ago. All this is mounted on alloy brackets that bolt onto the stock frame lugs.

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Edited by Dezza
  • Like 4
Posted

The tank lifts off in about 5 seconds (if a quick release fuel coupling is used. It is possible to remove the tank with the seat in situ but it's a pig to get back on correctly unless all the fuel is drained first. I now only have the fuse box and connector blocks under the tank with 2 relays for thhe headlights. The coils go on a bracket mounted onto the two back mounts for the tray that goes under the tank. The coils are Kawasaki zzr 1100. They enable the fitting of Taylor leads and are much cheaper and smaller than Dyna coils. And they don't crack either.

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  • Like 4
Posted

I've always liked the minimalist look of frame kit bikes. Getting it to all look like it was meant to be like that is not easy as we all know. This is still ongoing...

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  • Like 8
Posted

 

14 hours ago, bluedog59 said:

Be honest Dezza, you just wanted to post some pictures of your Harris to make us jealous. :D

This is sub-consciously almost certainly true.... I was also hoping to show how a Mag 2 can be built to look good without binning/butchering the stock tank and seat though, as almost all magnums I see now have modified/non-stock bodywork and this peturbs me:(. I must admit though that the seat unit on my bike at the moment has had the sides trimmed slightly.

Posted

I would have bought the frame kit sold by Swiss Tony if Clive hadn't and also made it a full 80s spec job. Would cost a bomb now as like a twit I sold much of my 80s Harris and Spondon gear but still have spare Harris original bodywork, footrests and plates etc.

  • Like 1
Posted

On the other side, is there a small indent for the reservor for the rear master cylinder? This has been removed on the seat that is currently on my bike but I have another unit that is unmodified that has this feature (brain now on rivet-counter mode). The battery lid often gets lost so it is good you still have this. It should also come with a bit that goes over the back to convert the unit into a single seat look.

Posted
1 hour ago, Dezza said:

On the other side, is there a small indent for the reservor for the rear master cylinder? This has been removed on the seat that is currently on my bike but I have another unit that is unmodified that has this feature (brain now on rivet-counter mode). The battery lid often gets lost so it is good you still have this. It should also come with a bit that goes over the back to convert the unit into a single seat look.

Sold clive the single unit too so he has the full set up dezza

  • Like 2
Posted

The screens were originally held on with those really naff plastic number plate screws and nuts so it doesn't take much effort to find better alternatives. The single seat conversion thingy and the battery box lid had Dzus fastners with a button hex head (4mm key). The belly pan was held onto the top fairing by some slightly larger Dzus fasteners (D ring). The whole fairing assembly is attached to the frame by a steel bracket that bolts to the lugs on the headstock and two side mounted brackets that go onto the frame rails. I'll post some pics later as I have just had my seat and tank off again in order to sort a leaking Pingel tap but I can't get to my fairing as it's in the attic (I have been meaning to put it on for the last 10 years but haven't got round to it yet...).

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
On ‎8‎/‎18‎/‎2019 at 3:53 PM, Dezza said:

I would have bought the frame kit sold by Swiss Tony if Clive hadn't and also made it a full 80s spec job. Would cost a bomb now as like a twit I sold much of my 80s Harris and Spondon gear but still have spare Harris original bodywork, footrests and plates etc.

It's all over the country now! Frame, Tank, Dymags, Marzocchi forks/Harris yokes, AP Classic brakes & discs, original bodywork ... scattered on the four winds! I almost regret selling it all ... almost!;)

Edited by Swiss Toni
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Here is a picture of an un-butchered stock, late magnum 2 seat. The recess for a rear master cylinder reservoir (AP or Brembo) is clear. I destroyed my AP cylinder in a 100 mph crash in 1990:( The button head Dzus fasteners are for the battery box lid and single seat attachement thingy if used. The D-ring jobs are to connect the bottom and top fairing sections.

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  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted

A bit of extra bike time means I can finally change the hideous front mudguard to a fibreglass job found at Newark autojumble a few years back (£5, bargain:)). Not back on yet as I need to touch a few chips in the wheel paint before getting it back together. I have also done a 20ft seat respray that needs a blue go faster speed stripe and clear coating. The wheel has to be removed to swap mudguards as otherwise there's a risk of cracking it at the back (ask me how I found this out:(). If this lockdown goes on for much longer I'll be getting the fairing down from the attic.

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  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It now has a relatively decent looking front mudguard for the first time in 15 years. It's also had a 15ft/4 pint paint job on the seat unit that's waiting for the clear coat, and I fixed the front wheel paint. Magnesium wheels like regular care and don't take kindly to neglect. Everything polished and it's ready to go when it's taxed on 1st June.

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  • Like 7
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

I need to get some practise in with bodywork for my other project so I got the fairing for this bike out after it has been in storage for the past 20 odd years. I got it 2nd hand and it was on a Mag 2 with a GSX engine. I still needed to faff about  with it though to clear the exhaust and engine covers correctly. Having the fairing on damps out much of the engine vibration and makes riding the bike at speed much easier as the wind isn't trying to drag me off the bike. One problem though is heat. It's channelled directly towards the rider.

It now has to come off for a bodge silver paint job.

 

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Edited by Dezza
  • Like 5

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