Problem with ignition

[MSteenJ]

Hi fellow suzuki riders,

I have a problem with my 1982 suzuki gsx1100.
I have two dead cylinders 2 and 4, but 1 and 3 runs ok.

I can start it which is quite hard and ride it at 27km/h at FULL throttle, which is even harder.
I have a new battery on, around 120 psi cold compression on all four, completely rebuild carburetors(ultra sonicly cleaned) and newly refurbished cylinder head with adjusted valves.

When i went through the wiring and testing of it, i meassured the coils primary to 1.8ohm and secondary to 26.5k ohm, on both coils, which is within specs as what i could tell from my haynes manual. 
I then came to the ignitor and noticed  that it became untouchably hot after just a few seconds. 
Can this cause my possible misfiring conditions of the 2 cylinders and poor performance and how in the world do i fix it?

I should mention that i gave it a new wiring harness with a Moto Gadget M-unit blue, original rectifier and starter.

Thank you
Morten

[Blubber]

My first check would indeed be the igniter or even the pick up. 

[Captain Chaos]

30 minutes ago, MSteenJ said:

I have two dead cylinders 2 and 4, but 1 and 3 runs ok.

You do know that 1 and 4 run on one coil, 2 and 3 on the other? Mis-typed maybe?

[MSteenJ]

I'm pretty sure that 1 and 2 run on the same, and then 3 and 4 runs on the other. 
i was unsure myself, but i found this diagram showing it as in pairs, the other gsx1100 models are as you describe.

 

[Gixer1460]

Don't follow a part diagram to establish lead placement - all engines running wasted spark run coil 1 to cyl's 1 & 4 and coil 2 to cyl's 2&3. Coil resistance quoted is too low - should be between 3 - 5 ohms NOT 1.8! At that resistance its drawing too many amps and would probably break down with overheating?

[BigT]

Plug wires are on the wrong plugs. 1&4 and 2&3, as above

Edited August 13, 2019 by BigT

[Dezza]

Did it run OK before fitting the moon unit ? It is not clear from your original post if the problem has arisen since making any modifications or not. When you say the ignitor, do you mean the ignition trigger on the end of the crankshaft or the CDI box? My guess is that something has accidentalluy been wired incorrectly and the CDI unit is now buggered.

[gs7_11]

If he's connected the HT leads up by that parts drawing, there's your answer, fishbulb.

[MSteenJ]

I will try and wire up the HT leads in the order you all describes, and properbly order a new set since the resistance in the primary is that much lower than 3-5 ohm's.
Thank you guys, although im feeling quite stupid that it might be this simple... o.0

[gs7_11]

I wouldn't be in too much if a hurry to replace the coils. It's notoriously hard to measure low resistances accurately, and those readings don't seem too far out.

Also you had a problem with each coil, but also a correct running cylinder with each coil, so it wouldn't be the ignitor or coil that is the fault.

Try connecting everything up correctly first, see how it runs.

[MSteenJ]

I've just tried to hook it up as you guys mentioned coil 1 to 1 and 4, coil 2 to 2 and 3. It fired up fairly quickly but only cylinder 2 and 3 was  firing, which i got from only those two exhausts were smoking hot,  cyl 1 and 4 was cold but not ice cold (100F/40C-ish). 
I then tried to see if there was spark on all four, and yes! a nice fat blue spark on all cylinders.

Ok so far so good. 
I then tried switching the coils and corresponding wires from the CDI, and same story. Only cylinder 2 and 3 was firing.
 

I doubt that cyl 1 and 4 are not getting fuel, because the carbs are just cleaned, but i will try and put the old original 34mm vacuum on it and see if it fixes it.
(currently it has a set of bst36ss on it with dual oval kn filters and stage 3 kit from dynojet) 

Anything i should try to test?
I have no idea of what it can be.

 

Thank you

 

[Gixer1460]

Well, for correct running you need 3 things - Sparks, Air and fuel. The first two seem to be covered, so even though carbs are 'clean' it would seem there is a blockage somewhere? If the alternative carb rack work correctly then its carb strip time again! DJ kits do wear especially needles and emulsion tubes but have a lifetime warranty so can be replaced but at idle / low speed when starting would be start / idle circuits needing investigation - but you do have some direction now!

[demt]

Erm where is the igniter located as I need to check it

[Gixer1460]

11 hours ago, demt said:

Erm where is the igniter located as I need to check it

You seem to be new to the conversation? Is this the same bike / what bike are you referring to? Look at the picture further up - it shows the Ignition box (most look similar) #29 - usually found somewhere near the battery / under seat or side panels. What are you planning to check as generally they work or they don't!

[ProducerBill]

My 1981 GS550L CDI box was faulty and I replaced it with a EDI setup. From the motorcycle rumor mill seems the early 1980s CDIs where not 100% reliable and could lead to misfiring. After fumbling around and misunderstanding how the EDI really worked it has been rock solid.

That all said I also had a corrosion issue from the main loom to the coils. I started up the bike and then fiddled with the connections and randomly all the cylinders would fire and die. After I replace the connectors that corrected that issue.

[Reinhoud]

Not sure if helpful;

Years ago I had problems with my GS1000, ran like crap, couldn't figure out what was wrong with it.

I always buy parts from a Suzuki dealer, Suzuki says you should use Denso or NGK sparkplugs, at that moment I had Denso sparkplugs in it. Can't remember why, but I bought new sparkplugs, NGK this time, all problems gone...

 

So, before you start replacing the expensive stuff, are your sparkplugs alright? A good spark outside the cylinder doesn't mean it's ok, I've learnt..

 

[demt]

well ive looked near the batery and after cleaning up the sidestand switch. the fusebox and the indicater unit whilst believing in a higher power that can change the wirings colours as to still b an igniter ,a little birdie told me that its under the front fairing near the starter button ,but that seems to be on the other side so hears to taking the front fairing of for a good look, ive got a very nice motorbikebike shop round the corner in west ealing london but there 65 quid ish an hour .so isle find where it is buy a new won and ask them to fit it as theyll deal with any gremlins that get to me ,I think its the igniter because its the only piece of kit to cover all the symptoms found earlier. ie no real power diff to start as to what it does i believe it times the condensers outputt o the spark plug and has a rev limiter to around 11000rpm i hope im right as the next suspect is either the wiring witch i want to check or the stater but thats further down the line if at all could allso do with how to test the igniter instructions, ps if you like rock nroll riding tunes im on tik tok under demtzen cheers

[Gixer1460]

would the bike shop be 'Bill Bunn Motorcycles by any chance? That hourly rate is about the norm these days especially for London!

[demt]

nope bill buns is close though