Jump to content

suzook12

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    138

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by suzook12

  1. suzook12
    Should be 2 small wires, black white= -12V, green/yellow from memory= +12V from starter button
  2. suzook12
    My drag bike runs billet cam links with an oil feed from the end of the rockers, have also seen then done with a feed from the main oil gallery, which I'm guessing have some sort of restrictor in there to stop robbing oil from elsewhere
  3. suzook12
    True enough, but have found in the past, if you can get a good mix at idle at sesible turns out, then its a good indicator the pilot jet is right size as well, not every time granted, certainly 75% of the time..... Back on topic, had a similar setup to this and 2 1/2 turns out was sufficient, but every bike is different
  4. suzook12
    None whatsoever. If you are putting an oil feed to the cams different matter, cam to cam basically just equalises any pressure difference, not always a good thing. If you have 1 worn journal giving a low pressure on that cam, you will be reducing oil to the rest....
  5. suzook12
    Pilot jet mixture screw IS set at idle, the op is asking about pilot jet, not mains
  6. suzook12
    Could be an idea to invest in a 12mm colourtune kit, will help you nail the mixture cock on
  7. suzook12

    Moving Fuse box

    suzook12 replied to Blue's topic in Oil Cooled

    Well it went on a road bike afterwards and charged at a steady 14V so def an issue on the load sensing side. We have seen several causes for over voltage output on GSX-R's. In this instance, everything was brand new, wires, relays,connectors the lot. Upping the wire from fuse to nitrous controller from 1mm to 1.5mm saw a voltage increase at controller of nearly 1.5V and also cured the running issues we were having, so yeah, it is all relevant.... Just saying as I see it, nothing worse than knifing up a brand new harness.... Back to topic...
  8. suzook12

    Moving Fuse box

    suzook12 replied to Blue's topic in Oil Cooled

    If you do move it to the back probably an idea to up the wire sizes to compensate for voltage drop. Be wary of alternator output, I had a drag bike that was charging at 18V owing to the length of wiring before the alternator saw a signal voltage. Fortunately, in this case the alternator could be removed to run total loss, not an option on a street bike..... Steve
  9. suzook12
    Bin there too lol, bar far and away easiest method is to pull the alternator then refit it after the clutch, only one gear to worry about at a time then
  10. suzook12
    Marksman also do them though that chart is pretty useful though
  11. suzook12
    pretty sure Ive used RF900 in the past, may had to respace calipers slightly tho, long time ago now
  12. suzook12
    Generic part number is 32906- you can get 1 here https://www.123bearing.co.uk/bearing-32906.php
  13. suzook12
    from a quick search, looks like srad uses 30 x 55 x 17 top and bottom, slabs n slings use 30 x 55x 17 bottom, 25 x 47 x 15 top, so assuming length is same you need a 30 x 47 x 15 top. Looking at allballs website, they do a 30 x 47 x 12, 3mm shim and you're good. part# 99-3540-5 , which is what they list in their conversion chart.... Their chart is pretty useful http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion Hope that helps Steve
  14. suzook12
    Rick, if I get chance tomorrow, will look at my trade books and see what comes up. Got a busy day tomorrow, van mot in morning, post your exhaust, cut a tree down, have a look at a boat out norwich way then collect van and fail sheet and order parts...... So may need a nudge come Monday lol Steve
  15. suzook12
    Least ya got it now
  16. suzook12
    When you say you changed the clutch, was it like for like or have you done the coil spring conversion? If the latter, did you put a ball bearing in between the rod halves? If the same, missing something like the pusher bearing and/or thrust washer could be enough to let the slave piston out too far. If you've changed one or both the rods, did you check the lengths?
  17. suzook12
    Or is it coming too far out?
  18. suzook12
    I would get some plastigauge and check the clearances before deciding whether or not to replace the shells. Seeing as you're in that deep, what about a lightened balanced crank? Makes engine much more responsive...... And I know where there is one Lol Steve
  19. suzook12
    Strangely, I have never come across any GSX-R with 0 air jets, 7 or 11's. I do however think you are massively overjetted. My 750m with full stage 3 kit had dj145's fitted, and on 7's I use 140 Mikunis as a starting point. Having found some take 135's and the odd one requiring 145's. Stage 3 kits also seem to make bikes hyper sensitive to float heights..... Steve
  20. suzook12
    On my 1340, the sleeves are waisted to clear the oilway, retaining the internal oilway. To go 1371, most go external as the oilway is fouled or opened up. Steve
  21. suzook12

    Model ID

    suzook12 replied to Gixerjonah's topic in Oil Cooled

    10th digit of the frame/vin number will tell you the year, as it happens, on gsxr11 models, the digit is also the model. So J is 88.k89,l90 and so on, assuming you have the 17 digit VIN number
  22. suzook12
    Hindle also work extremely well Steve
  23. suzook12
    They're not supposed to "snap" shut, thats the whole point of them.As long as they all take the same amount of time to shut then they are as they should be. As long as the butterflies snap shut then all is well. Steve
×
×
  • Create New...