suzook12

I would imagine that the resistor will fail eventually. 10W gives less than 1A current. With 5 ohms and a 12.6V supply (allowing for losses) gives you a 2.5A draw. You need a higher rated resistor, somewhere around 35-40W. Ballast resistors are pretty cheap and can handle pretty high loads. If you go for a slingy CDI, you will need back plate, pulse coil and rotor as well as these work with a single trigger. They may work by just using the wires from the 1-4 pulse coil, they may not, never tried it personally. The plugs for the CDI's may need looking at as well, been a while since I've had a slabby ignition although may have a dead one kicking around....

Try searching carl salter manuals

Where you finding the Hindle's from Rich, was looking a little while ago and couldn't find one for love nor money??

Having run several gsxr's and bandits over the years, I mostly fit slabby coolers these days as I've found them one of the most robust around. I used to sell HEL kits, and had several failures. This we found, was predominantley down to vibration, so fitting any aftermarket coolers, you need to make sure your cooler is well insulated from vibes. The later coolers I found very susceptible to stone hits. You can of course just make up braided lines for whichever cooler you have or get. The bulk of the price in the kits we found was the lines. Have used Mocal and Setrab coolers, they seem a bit better quality, but again, vibes will kill them. They are considerably higher priced though. Whatever you fit, take suzuki's lead and rubber mount them and keep the cooler pretty loose in its brackets Steve

Fj around 110 rwbhp, some way short of where you're looking.... I would go with a lump that can reach 150 reasonably easily, then going turbo. Taking the power up in gradual steps will show any shortcomings in the package before it becomes unmanageable. Suzooks and Kwaks seem to have the most tuning parts readily available. The more horses a motor makes aspirated, the less you have to do to it to reach your target. A busa or zx12 motor will get there with consumate ease and less boost than a mid 80's designed motor, but you then have water cooling to deal with....Turbo sizing will be very important, too small and you'll be generating too much heat, too big and you'll struggle to spool it up. You also need to decide whether you want draw thru or blow thru. Draw through being the simplest form, but I'm let to believe you need a turbo with carbon seals? Blow through you can use a stock motor and carb package..... Plenty to think about

Done a bit of searching and seems G clutch has 74 teeth, so not interchangeable What you need to decide, is where you want to go with your bike. What sort of performance do you want? What sort of power can that chassis handle? Can the suspension handle the power? Theres a fair chance you will need the shock re-valving to cope with a turbo, you will no doubt have limited clearance as it is, being a chop, the amount of squat a turbo or nitrous motor can produce is a lot..... Bearing in mind its quite easy to see 150 ponies from a 1216 motor without the added cost of EFI or turbo. A basic blow through system should put you easily over 175 ponies, get it well sorted and you will be seeing well over 200 and generating an awful lot of torque. I know we all have that mentality of too much is never enough, but for a road bike it really is.... 150-160 real world ponies in a good chassis with good brakes really is enough, at least, that's my opinion. But I do question whether with that chassis if even that amount of power could be dealt with. You could easily end up with something that really is unrideable. Not trying to piss on your fireworks, its your bike and your rules, just trying to provide some food for though....

B12 has the same primary as the gsx-r's, straight cut. Helical cut gears are used for quiet running as the gears are in constant contact so no chatter, straight cut for performance. The gearboxes are all straight cut. The B12 has first 2 gears undercut as does the m and n models and it's CR lends itself more readily to turbo use without mods, although the clutch is the weak link in the chain here. The F clutch is very similar to the slabby and parts can be used to build the hybrid slingy/slabby mod except the basket because of the primary gear...

Don't know where they get those figures from, but both the f and the gsxr11 m are rated 130 at rear wheel?? A really good m may just squeeze that, but an f on 34mm carbs?? Bearing in mind we're talking fresh from factory here. Would be interesting to see what any dyno guys have to say on that...

What primary does the g have? "F's are reputably not so good for turbo's as the helical gears try to jack themselves apart under severe load...... Where this would occur in the horsepower ladder I don't know but is a turbo sub 200rwbhp worth the effort??

So its kinda at "the jury is out" stage.... Will be interesting to see how well these work over time. Can't fault someone for trying. Although you do have to wonder how much of an issue it actually is. My last street bike say what now!? which was a daily hack and annually covered 10-15k miles easily for first 5 years, only ever had emulsions changed once in its life time with me and had it 10 years. After a few years away, just bought another 750 tho.....

How effective are these in reality? From my understanding, the needle sat skewed to allow for air speed pushing it towards engine while running, thus alleviating wear. As we know, this has induced wear on the intake side of the tubes so will this just switch the wear to the engine side of the tubes? Guess time will tell

final drives are usually in the region of 3:1. For the G 2.667:1 or 32/12 has been bandied about on other forums

Just take the pick up off the plate and switch it over

If you're replacing bearings, stock ones are mostly NSK and can be sourced online much cheaper than through suzuki, I use simply bearings as a supplier. The oddball ones will be an OE item though.... If you use a parts list, very often the size and heat code are given too, for example 6002 C3

ahhh, that makes sense. Its reading infinity, so yes you are seeing 1.9k then. When you said it registered nothing, that would indicate zero. From there, read across the coil at the coil end, if it still reads high then yup, thats your problem. If it reads in spec then you have an issue with one of the wires, either corroded (most likely at plug end) or damage/break somewhere along that wire. I have several pulse coils around so can sort you a replacement if necessary. Steve

Sounds as though the multimeter is playing silly buggers as well. If it read zero on the 200 range then it should read zero on the 2k range. If my one reads 1.917 in the 2k range then it reads 1.917 in the 200 range as well. It would be more likely to read zero in 2k range. If you are getting 1 (infinty) in the 200 range then it sounds like you have a broken wire to the pulse coil or the coil itself is damaged. Measuring at the coil end will confirm one way or another but from your comments I don't think your multimeter is playing ball. I have had more faulty multimeters than I have pulse generator coils!

Put it on 200 range and try again

I've had Hindle on my own bikes in the past. Was looking to give a response to this thread but Hindle no longer list them for this or any other oil cooled model. Shame, as good quality systems at decent price...

I have some cometic racer packs, bottom end gaskets, better quality than genuine, can do one £30 posted

Not for ignition, no... But for some lighting yes (tail light iirc). First up..... Check your battery, you should be seeing 10V while engine turning over otherwise it won't spark. Seen this several times, one where 2 guys had spent days trying to figure why a bike wouldn't start. 2 mins to swap battery with mine and fired straight up.......... As your starter is working, you have power to the kill switch, so check the orange/white which runs from kill switch, powers both coils and the CDI, I have had breaks in the wiring to the switch gear before now. As a test, jump a wire from battery and power the orange/white circuit and should fire straight up, hold the wire battery end rather than hard wire it.

You can get Race Tech valve and spring kits, work very well. Got mine from g ixer Engineering Ltd at a good price

Hmmmm, is that why living in an area with some of the worst roads in the UK have never had to change a wheel in 35 years of riding like a t**t? Come to that none of my mates either, unless they have had crash damaged wheels....... Don't get me wrong, I'm all for lighter wheels and the benefits they provide, but I would never use "race weight" wheels on the road, covering some of the roughest back roads at speeds in excess of 150mph doesn't give much time for scanning. With a long list of road induced damage including blowouts, shocks, forks and subframes snapping, exhausts cracking etc etc, have never managed to break a wheel and with old age and sanity creeping in to my riding these days, am hoping that remains the case. Back in the day, I seem to remember aftermarket wheels coming in race or road weight, why risk it??

You could ask Robert Dunlop about race weight wheels on public roads.... Or then again....

There ya go, learn summat new every day!! Does sound very much like resistor missing or ignition switch breaking down so CDI not seeing it...

Sounds more like a bandit 12 to me, tps + wheelie wires, so prob the old 100 ohm resistor trick...