boilerdude

right on. I was hoping with only 15,000 miles that mine would be ok but maybe it's fucked from sitting so long with spring tension only on that one spot while it sat for years.... You're damned if you do and you're damned if you dont.

what about 93-98 waterpig wheel?

slabby speedo drive work with slingshot wheel? or need slingshot speedo parts? 2 weeks ago I bought a 86 1100. And last week I bought a 86 750 as well. Alittle nicer with less issues than the 1100. Still both worthy projects though. With My bandit to ride for now and another for a motor donor eventually.

i can hear the chain slapping moar than it should. Ive owned 2 b12s now. I know what a rough idle sounds like. I'm saying this is more than just the rough idle. It's chain slap. and perhaps so much slack that the timing doesn't smooth out till it gets rolling. strangely the old old that came out was only extended a few clicks. I wonder if the tensioner assembly stuff on the inside is stuck?

So I'm swapping the cct out of my parts bandit to see if that fixes the slap my slabby has at idle. Havent quite gotten the bandit one in there yet but I noticed a couple differences between the tensioners. The slabby one has an extra spring on the end of the plunger for a sort of double spring action. While the bandit just has a plunger which is noticeably more "stout" and a primary spring which is shorter but also much beefier. and no extra spring on the end... I'm not so sure the 86 one was bad but fingers crossed the slap goes away. or else something else is wrong and maybe I got smoked on this deal a bit... we shall see. The bike has a really rough lumpy idle accompanied by a horrible slapping noise at the lowest of idle... but then once it gets 3 or 4,000 rpms, it all smooths out. Guy told me it was the cct and i took his word for it but now im having doubts... We'll find out here anyway. Thing has 14,xxx miles on the clock and everything looks reasonably well kept on it. I figure it was almost impossible for anything horribly catastrophic to be wrong with the motor...

o i c

So of course now that I just bought a slabby... I might like to see it on 17s. After a little reading it seems like a fork swap is easier than retrofitting the front wheel and having it centered. The rear is easy. practically goes right on there. I get that. But do the sprockets line up? anything I should do there? And I suppose I'm asking whats a good fork swwap that will work with my original speedo? And which bits do I need from which bike to make that work? I know these threads exist elsewhere but I'm just not sure that the subject has been quite as conclusively driven into the ground as it could be. So here's a new one... Lets say I'm doing a 95-98 waterpig fork swap. Anybody know what bits do I need to make the slabby speedo work? Or if someone could remind me again from the top how do I get a front (slingshot) 17 on there with the wheel and rotors exactly where they should be? Anybody remember exact measurements of the spacer needed. Maybe it just got lost in my horrible memory but I'm not sure I came across that. Anybody care to rehash this one with me

so the diaphragm clutch is a bad thing I take it?

And doesn't the slabby have better carbs for turbo? I think I heard one of the big buffs somewhere say they're actually pretty decent carbs after you have them bored or something like that... I recently bought a half decent slabby btw.

Is there anything that stands out about one or the other to make it better for a build? If you had them both in very similar condition a very clean slabby motor. For big bore or turbo application. What reasons might I use one engine or the other? Do either of the heads really flow better than the other? is either of the bottom ends stronger than the other? Trannies? What are some key differences between the two.

right on. Well I have a couple sticking or worn out ones on my bandit and my slabby 1100. The slabby I just bought for a decent deal. It has very noticeable chain slap though. Hopefully just needs a cct. bike is reasonably clean with 15,000 miles

Go easy on me. I'm sure this is an old cliche been answered a million times. Nice fresh stock one or "im not quite sure whats too tight or too loose" manual... http://www.amazon.com/CRU-Products-Manual-Timing-Tensioner/dp/B0148ZXA8G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447472879&sr=8-1&keywords=bandit+1200+cam+chain+tensioner And if it's a manual one does it need to be APE or do you think would one of these do?

He didn't reply to my first email which was a series of questions. So I waited a week maybe more. And decided to try again only short and sweet this time. "Hello Dave. I have bandit. want turbo. how much?". To which he then replied 2150 ride in ride out. So now we're on to the next question. Can you ship... Reckon I'm just being impatient. But if there was at least a price already listed I wouldn't have to bother him at all while I'm still deciding.

Well it's taken him like a week to respond to one simple question. How much. Now we're on to the next question. question #2. which is "can you ship to the US" And I'm waiting several days now for a response on question #2. If he just had actual kits for sale on the website instead of always a 1 on 1 email contact thing. He could probably free himself up some more time to just make the stuff. And I wouldn't feel like I'm pulling teeth just to get an estimate and find out if they ship to the US. Like "here's our b12 kit". "here's the price". Here's where you click to order... would be great.

I'm alittle embarrassed to say lol. You're gonna be like "ah christ this guy again" Frenchfries... So anyway I got ahold of double D. He quoted a "ride in - ride out" price of £2150. Which is Just under 3300. Including the clutch and most of all including the fact that ride in-ride out that means all installed by him as well which is awesome. Thats a killer deal. Problem is I'm here in the states. He's over there in the UK... I was kinda hoping against hope that he could weld up a kit somehow without my bike actually being there... Or that maybe he already had some duplicate manifold and clutch stuffs made already. And you know ship it out this way. But no reply so far about that...

well It says make an offer. I offered 400. Still no communication whatsoever. I fuckin hate people like that. Just text me back NO asshole. Or I'm going to keep bugging you...

right on. gonna call the feller. thats just 20 minutes away. what the hell. slingshot motor and a spare set of bst36 and maybe some other goodies. seems fair.

Thank you guys.

I was hoping somebody could just tell me what arrangement of letters and numbers stamped on the engine I should be looking for. Like if the 4th letter is a J. then it's a such and such motor...

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/5205376282.html If I were to go look at this bike. What do I look at to tell if it's really a gsxr lump and not just a kat 1127 motor.

Yea yea. Well I may sell off the busa pistons and just go big bore high compression. That's the big decision right now.

I emailed that dave dunlop feller. Try to get some sort of a ballpark estimate. I would like to try to keep this whole thing said and done under $5 american. Or else why dont I just buy a hyperbike and get on with life... Is the turbo bandit worth a certain amount of money when the bird or the busa is well... already engineered to be a highway bomber including better more stable suspension and chassis. nevermind the actual suspension components but the geometry of the whole layout is vastly superior. and aero... I know we're talking about a substantial difference in power. but still. You guys know what I mean. The bandit has an engine. And then suzuki "bent" a frame around that engine that is "adequate" and allows for easy maintenence. And nevermind the horrid suspension and swingarm that flexes like a pair of tweezers they actually attached to it... You get the idea. I love things for what they are. But I also see them for what they are or at least I like to think. I love the bandit for what it is. The only thing manlier than a built air/oil cooled suzuki is a boosted air/oil cooled suzuki. but there is definitely more work needed in this than just the motor and turbo setup. I do want to carry through with this. but I dont have thousands upon thousands upon more and more and more thousands to just throw at just one attribute of the motorcycle. You understand. I have 4-5000 but much further past that I might start saying "is this really worth a 200 hp blandit or should I just get a busa put a bunch of lame monster energy drink stickers on it and call it a day..." Just making that point before I take the full dive. Not to be debby downer. Just keeping my eccentricities in double check for a moment while I ponder... stuff is awful pricey for some welded pipes and boost tubes and fittings and a turbo. there I said it. Decisions are decisions. Decidedly you could say I havent fully decided until Ive bought a little bit more than $100 set of busa pistons... arent I a witty fuck... Yea that was lame sorry lol. If dave's quotes are "too far past the 5 mark". I may still have my eye on that proboost kit and go from there. Aside from that. I take my time with big decisions is all. What I consider big decisions anyway. To some people 5k is a nickel and thats fine. It's probably my fault I'm not pimpin that hard. But anyway you get what I'm saying sorry for all the words. bla bla bla try to go easy on my wallet.

from what I hear their quality is improving. A good friend of mine on CF had seen one of their more recent kits and said the manifold was a work of art compared to the old one. I'll see if I can get him to send me a picture of said bike and who knows maybe they still have the old one pictured but perhaps the kit actually comes with more refined stuff... I'm definitely going to take my time on selecting while I get the engine done up. It wont be done tomorrow... but man I want that rush. And who are we kidding. I also want to be that guy with a turbo bandit around here lofting 4th and 5th gear wheelies with 16 43 maybe 16 42 sprockets. Not big wheelies you know just little ones while I hover away from foes and feed into it. Yea you guys are right about the clutch. But hey first things first...

I know you know what you are talking about. But are you sure you're saying it right? I'm trying to decipher... oh wait I get it now. right. 40% thats more like 180-190 than 226.

I'll do just that.