richyrich

That's a remarkably clean looking bike considering the accessorised chrome majority of stuff riding round Asia. I bet there's not a lot of other big bikes where you are , how the heck did you get that swingarm there ?

If i were u, briefly, and based on my possibly innavurate interpretation of your picture. You need to figure out the starter circuit , it's in the manual . I think I can see in the lower right a ring connector with a ^tang^ on it, that goes to a two inch square thing on the batterybox or maybe hanging, the starter relay. The two big wire from that goes to the starter motor and the battery. You're fourth wire in the pic i reckon s an earth and goes battery negative. Take off all the body work and tank and trace those wires , ID them in the manual. The next bit is to undo each connector in turn and get contact cleaner in them. Not all at once . One at a time and put it back, mentally note the wire colours. Use masking tape to wrap and label any loose wires and connectors . Take lots of photos to reference on reassembly. Concentrate on starter circuit . Standard oss practice is to make sure the engine has oil in it and turns freely by hand before gunning the starter motor with the plugs out . My disclaimer is i might be wrong , its your bike your responsibility. don't use too much force on the old loom or you'll pull the connectiors off the wires , don't use too much force on anything, let it soak in oil and periodically hit it. Use well fitting tools , don't bodge them, this way u don't round the bolts or strip the threads . Carry on

Welcome , get some pics up of where the battery lives and we'll have it running in a jiffy , mot different story

Cable stretching ? Cable has been cut by a sharp edge , maybe at adjuster and is hanging by a decreasing number of threads. Don't ask how I know this . Pray the final self adjustment happens in the supermarket car park and not ur sunny mountain road.

Looking good ! More pics please , what are the footpegs ?

Get newer coils from something 90s that can disconnect everything. Or be brave and cut the wires to crimp in what connectors you need

I think the coils get orange with white stripe . If white and green is between ignition rotor and cdi it must be timing right ? I like the idea of a Sidestand warning light tho , is that true wtf ... I think you need a circuit dia gram. If u search for a manual on this site and on Google u should find both manual and circuit diagram , what exact bike is it ? Maybe someone can link it again

Which places have you found them ? Looks like a rich seam in the states maybe . Now you've cornered the market what next

Yes fairing is back ! I like it , u don't need lights in Spain then ?

Oh no that was a sweet bike ! What was the fairing , any front pics of the old setup ? I reckon better in red now and chicks dig scars right

I've got a 180 tyre on a 5.5 rim in gs550 frame with an oil cooled engine . Even though the frame has had material removed around the chain and on sprocket carrier , to get the 520 chain to clear the tyre things are not straight . I might go to a 5 inch rim and 160 tyre to get a straight chain run and decent life out of my chainset. Maybe I need an offset front sprocket to bring things inboard a touch more , not sure there's even room for that , hope this info helps

Absolutely put an oil boiler in it , if u can find an original mr711 triky seat, use it, on a dodgy but fast wes cooley replica , de nada, grazzi

The rear brake fitting goes with the swing arm and wheel , it's not the most critical bit IMHO. Get it working , Polish the heck out of all the corroded areas and hope it don't leak . Get the motor running !

I had an oil cooled engine where the valves sealing face had oxidised and 'furred up' , this gave low compression . After a few spirited rides , if I could get it started , the compression came back up . Presumably the fur had been burnt and knocked off. It still wasn't great tho, I took the head off and lapped in the valves in the end . Was proper job after that.

Why not put an oil cooled , running, engine in it while you have the 550 on the bench to big bore it .

What happens when you press the buttons ?

we need the backstory, eg howd you get the pipes thru the swingarm like that ?

heat that nut

the rev limit is in your wrist ! if you can get it plugged together and working, should be fine, right ?

Can you show us more of the ET rack ? And where you get it from

750 L M is shims , is a K long stroke with screws ? I wonder if a gsxf would be better than my L for the road , that's short stroke I think , but the L does go like feck

Put in a gsf 600 engine

When it's running , stationary, on all four, OW, BY have ten volts at cdi connector, W has 5v . Is this to do with resistors and capacitors in the cdi being worn out , or something I can fix in the loom . Reluctant to spend ninety quid for another old cdi if it won't solve the problem . Tempted to get a complete b12 loom , cdi , controls etc as I have a b12 motor to put in it. Wonder how that would work on this air cooled gsx750 , all the wires are the same , guess the ignition curve would be different but might be good enough. Thinking aloud

Well having prised open and remade the original white wire connector pin. Ive definitely got continuity through the connectors to cdi . I ve opened cdi black box and there's continuity through the troublesome white wire from loose end up to it's solder on the back of the cdi printed circuit board. It shows these symptoms at conector block ... cdi plugged in , ignition on 12v at OW, BY , 0v at W Cdi unplugged, ignition on 12v at OW, BY and 12v at W Where do the volts go ? How is it volts seem to me coming downstream from loom into cdi on white wire , but connect it to cdi and they're all gone . Wtf. Maybe they're coming down ow into cdi and back up w , in which case why are there 12v at w when it's not connected . My simple electrics brain does not compute. can anyone shed light on this ?

It's the connecttor block to the cdi ignitor that's the trouble I think. I have 12v at the OW and W wire at the loom side but not the other . Thanks to bigT for the link to service manual ! Interestingly In there it ses the cdi ignitor thingy can be tested by using a multimeter set to ohms on the cdi wires to the signal generator, making the one coil spark up when applied and the other coil spark when removed . Tricky to do in practice as just lots of sparks. Having poked about with my dodgy connector it seems to work for now. anyone have any tips on removing the connector pins from the block on these old looms ?