richyrich

Id say float valves Not closing

I think the length of the shock unit is critical. Im trying the hayabusa one now and it wont marry up, with either the b12 or busa knuckle. Ive got the 750L knuckle to try tomorrow, looks different again so May work. Probly not tho. So done that thing again, taking a perfectly good bike off the road. Fml.

Gsxr 7 L bolts onto b6 ha

Its a gsf6 shock, well passed its best now. Cant find what spec that is.

Cheers Wraith, im worried the 14nm spring will be rock hard in town

Do i go for 1 hayabusa rear shock for forty pound, collect from nearby, looks clean. 2 gsxr 1000 k2, fifty pound and further away, bit tatty Im at least 100 kg and rising. The bike is about 200kg. plus 30kg luggage sometimes. Plus occasion pillion if shes short enough. Is the hayabusa 14 nm spring too much. Or is the gsxr 10nm spring better, even though its damping is for a much lighter bike? I think the hayabusa unit is the better bet, ive read it fits better in the b12 swingarm and linkage on this

I didnt know the sump came off with the engine still in! Thats handy, might try that. Id say ur oil mesh looks pretty clean enough. I vote for getting it running before spending time making it nice. As a preliminary, top end check. Dont know what the oil control plug does? Nice bike, great pilot

You might find you have low compression cos the valves and their seats have some surface corrosion and carbon buildup. To sort that Is a head off job, only possible with the engine out. You might save yourself some labour by having a look at the top end now Take lots of pics!

Believe all oil cooled suzuki loom are very similar and will work. The connectors to the cdi, and to the engine eg neutral switch, and to sub looms like headlight are different on the later ones. thinking about getting a late model bandit one and using new aftermarket connector blocks to join it up Im having some trouble with my electrics, pretty sure its possible to make good my past bodges haha Did your kosos Get scotch locked into the ignition wires?

Nice one gix1460, thats good info on neutral warning light, probly capable of getting that working. theres lots of oranges going to the relay before the diode. do you mean one of them? Can i leave the relay in place and itll just work maybe. Id prefer to lose a pointless relay but dont want to cut and splice all its connection. Next week when the bike and diagram is in front of me i'll have a crack at it

I dont think they plug and play, but any switchgear could work with a bit of wiring diagram and vehiclwiringproduct.com connector kit. Gsxr k series are kinda similar i think. My bikes electric died yesterday tho so go figure

Can i just unplug the neutral switch tho? it will think its permanently in gear and not start. Or if i earth the loom connector permanently neutral, and the diode is still live and a week link. There never was a clutch switch and the sidestand loom connector i.plugged into its earth ages ago. How to remove the whole circuit back past the relay nicely and somehow keep the warning light Im sure this all started with the koso clocking clocks Pics of spaghetti to follow

So i had a moment last night doing sixty on a30 when all the electrics died. For a second i could see in the dark like batman or some shit. Anyway now It starts in neutral and everything works, put it in gear and ignition is stopped but lights work, and the koso speedo does funny things. Earlier yesterday id 'tidied' the loom abit, pulled about, ziptied it abit. This happened before in the garage so changed the neutral diode and worked for a few hundred miles. Twenty year old diode, fair enough. Sidestand neutral circuit fails somehow in the dark at speed, better sort this out properly wtf Anyone any thoughts?

Can you Try and post some pics of the bores? Id say a Top end rebuild Should Give it a new lease of life , maybe new rings You can give it the best chance, have a look at lapping in the valves. In the haynes manual is a list of things to measure and check. Probly worth trying to run it without disturbing the crankcases first id say.

What has changed? Is their enough fuel

how about a 2007/8 zx10, 18mm (of top of my head) gudgeon pin. Not very scientific but look nice and squat, so should leave some room under valve heads. I looked at this once to put in a b6 and took a punt on some inexpensive used pistons with rings and a barrel from someone who'd planned this. The stroke with those pistons should work and give 9 hundred and something. Im sorry i cant be more specific right now, mabe next week end i can dig them out and measure them again. I think the b6 is a slingshot motor so dont know if the gudgeon pin is the same for you.

http://That is a fine looking bike. What front end is that? How are the forks and yolks so flush

Have a good look around in the projects section for ideas. The b6 is a solid bike to start from, what is actually busted? Post some pics of it. Maybe pic up someones, unfinished, project oil cooled gsxr 1986 - 9. Theyre often cheap on e##y. Then use your b6 parts to finish it, or vice versa.

true ,must pay more attention, theres more there, worth a read

can they run out ? i worry we might be bureaucratised off the road (ref the london t tax; no vehicles older than 2007 ie euro3 regs, coming soon) but i dont think we can run out of ....nuts and bolts

theres an article on page 2 of "the vault" titled frankenstein...... below is a quote from it 2. A 750R-90 or 750R-91 top end on a B6. It’s actually very easy, and I think all the info you need is above. Both engines have the same stroke, same wrist pin diameter. Theoretically, it would be possible to put only 750 cylinders and pistons on a B6. However, the pistons are designed to fit the 750 head and since that also fits, why not install a 750 head as well (with bigger valves). Since the B6 has another cam chain the B6 cam chain tensioner, cam sprockets, cam chain guides and B6 valve cover need to be used. Then there are 2 options: either go for a 750R-90 top end, which uses forked rockers like the B6 does (so it’s possible to use either the B6 cams or the 750R cams), or go for a 750R-91 top end, which uses another type of rockers so it is not possible to keep the B6 camshafts.

I found the frankenstein monster article on the old home page very helpful to think thru compatability between model. Is it in 'the archive' here? Its somewhere

Yeh i was thinking about getting a cable repair kit to use the nipple from it and shorten the thing. 1 Need to have a go at getting the adjuetment done right first. As far as i know its original so 26yo is fairenough. It kinda was like the sidestand switch or neutral switch was breaking down like oilyspanner said. 2 Need to check the wiring. The clutch never slipped or crept forward so its hard for me to believe, i could easily be wrong, that the internal parts are worn enough to crap out like that. I'll take it apart this week, not for the whole year this time fingers crossed

The sidestand switch is long gone, i wondered if the neutral switch connection was breaking down. Current hypothesis is the clutch cable chose that day to strrtch beyond adjuetment. Theres a few things gong on

where did you get that spring from ? theres one missing on my 750L bst38 but ive never missed it, as the thing seems to run well enough now. did it make a difference for you maybe i should get one. pics of the bike ?