coombehouse

Thanks for posting this, it's interesting. There no hate from me either on any of this stuff however there's definitely some questions. Regarding your statement: Carbomoto is well know (at least in germany) for their self supporting carbon seat units for some decades. So why wouldnt a company that makes things like this https://carbomotocom.com/shop/carbonteile/fullsix-carbon/ducati-fullsix/panigale-v4-v4s-v4-speciale/selbsttragendes-heck/ be able to produce a ugly but working bandit carbon frame. The item in question is made in Slovenia by someone else. In addition, to successfully make a functional frame from carbon, it wouldn't look like a bandit frame as the properties of carbon are not the same as steel. Even carbon bicycles which are common these days are a different design to steel.

That frame looks very suspect. Why would you leave the indents pressed into the frame around the swingarm pivot & the lower suspension mounts wouldn't be strong or stiff enough if they were just carbon. The surface finish of the carbon also suggests it hasn't been laid up in a mould tool either.

I would probably clean up the notches on the basket, check the steels for flatness, fit a new oe or PTFE lined clutch cable & try it out before spending loads.

I've got one of those fake Yoshi's & whilst the quality is very good, they just aren't big enough in diameter to look right on a larger bike. They are made for scooters & stuff. I would go with the micron, at least it matches the bikes period.

What @TonyGeesays is right & very important. Also bear in mind that as you are changing the chain pitch the diameter of the sprockets are smaller even though they have the same number of teeth. To work out the gearing I use this site https://www.gearingcommander.com/

You could use an oil cooled motor, they are lighter than the old air cooled lumps

Try spraying a small amount of wd40 into the intake of the cylinder that's dead, if it fires up then it pretty much guarantees that the problem is carb related

They have more lift than the MK1 bandit cams & even more than the MK2 cams.

I've reused MLS gaskets without any issues. I normally clean them well & coat them with either spray paint or aerosol silicone gasket stuff

I seem to remember that Phase One endurance had issues with crankcases cracking when they used this motor at prolonged high revs. Don't think they resolved the issue as rule changes allowed oil cooled motors so they moved on. Not 100% on the details though

I used a 650 bandit loom on something I'm building with an oil cooled motor. It's new enough to be in good condition, about the right size for oss bikes & very cheap. I've even seen brand new looms for very little money on Eblag. Probably best to avoid the abs models though

That is true but the same rules apply to a cable clutch, change the ratio, reduce the effort, reduce the clutch movement.

You can't defy the laws of physics. If you are moving the clutch actuator by the same amount by applying the same amount of movement at the lever, the fact you are using hydraulics only means you are removing the friction caused by the cable.

Before you spend any money, check that 320mm will solve your issue. Looking at the photo, it looks like there's more unswept area than the extra 5mm you will gain by changing discs. Personally I would machine the calipers or fork mounts.

Just a few thoughts. The cooler may be too big unless you live somewhere incredibly hot. The bracket is unnecessarily complicated. I just use angle section from Eblag