coombehouse

I've got one of those fake Yoshi's & whilst the quality is very good, they just aren't big enough in diameter to look right on a larger bike. They are made for scooters & stuff. I would go with the micron, at least it matches the bikes period.

What @TonyGeesays is right & very important. Also bear in mind that as you are changing the chain pitch the diameter of the sprockets are smaller even though they have the same number of teeth. To work out the gearing I use this site https://www.gearingcommander.com/

You could use an oil cooled motor, they are lighter than the old air cooled lumps

Try spraying a small amount of wd40 into the intake of the cylinder that's dead, if it fires up then it pretty much guarantees that the problem is carb related

They have more lift than the MK1 bandit cams & even more than the MK2 cams.

I've reused MLS gaskets without any issues. I normally clean them well & coat them with either spray paint or aerosol silicone gasket stuff

I seem to remember that Phase One endurance had issues with crankcases cracking when they used this motor at prolonged high revs. Don't think they resolved the issue as rule changes allowed oil cooled motors so they moved on. Not 100% on the details though

I used a 650 bandit loom on something I'm building with an oil cooled motor. It's new enough to be in good condition, about the right size for oss bikes & very cheap. I've even seen brand new looms for very little money on Eblag. Probably best to avoid the abs models though

That is true but the same rules apply to a cable clutch, change the ratio, reduce the effort, reduce the clutch movement.

You can't defy the laws of physics. If you are moving the clutch actuator by the same amount by applying the same amount of movement at the lever, the fact you are using hydraulics only means you are removing the friction caused by the cable.

Before you spend any money, check that 320mm will solve your issue. Looking at the photo, it looks like there's more unswept area than the extra 5mm you will gain by changing discs. Personally I would machine the calipers or fork mounts.

Just a few thoughts. The cooler may be too big unless you live somewhere incredibly hot. The bracket is unnecessarily complicated. I just use angle section from Eblag

I had a look too & I could only find a picture of it on their billet sump listing so maybe they don't sell it separately. The spacer I made was 5mm thick I think but it has been a long time since I did it. https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gsx1100-billet-sump-plate/3626/

I used to have this problem but I fixed it by using an oil cooled pickup with a spacer. This brings the actual pickup hole much closer to the bottom face of the sump so it sits deeper in the oil that's there. I also used a paper gasket to seal the spacer & the pickup to the crankcase as there is nothing as standard. Problem gone. SPS sell a kit if you don't want to make your own.

If there is not air leak, popping & banging in the exhaust usually indicates too rich, spitting back through the carbs as they open indicates too lean.