wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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By the time you've bored a set of 36 or 38 carbs it would be cheeper to buy 40 carbs BUT 40's without a air box are renowned to be fuckers to try and jet, so don't bother with 40mm carbs.
Also if you haven't got the money to buy 40mm carbs you can't afford the rest, sorry to say but tuning is not cheep these days and you'd be looking at £120-£150 for a standard set of 36mm carbs and probably £150-£250 for a set of 38mm if you can find a set.
Don't know what your putting them on but I find the 38mm gsxr carbs to be a very good all round carbs the next step really is spend the money on a set of flat slide carbs but they are big money.
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I'd go for the DOT head, as I believe the 92 gsxr head won't increase the compression on a b12 motor so you'd only gain would be cams which you can put gsxr (non shim) cams straight into the b12 head or DOT head.
If you're using any other cams apart from your standard b12 cams you will need to swap the cam sprockets and use your b12 cam sprockets.
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All been answered above and is good info, so all I will say is for bolt on power a DOT head is worth doing. B12 respond well with a DOT (have one myself) and I understand the 1127 and 1052 respond well to them as well.
Only down side is depending what your fitting the head/engine into the carb angel can course a problem.
My B12 engine with DOT head and gsxr cams runs very well but being in a gsx1100et frame I had to lift the rear of the tank a bit to clear the gsxr750 38mm carbs (also worth fitting as far as I'm concerned
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The gsx750f are not much cop, you really need gsxr cams or gsx1100f cams.
I'm told
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Welcome to OSS
Nice looking frame, you putting a standard 1100 or tuned? B12 lumps are easier to find and just as tunable
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Brown wire ?
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Very basic
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Welcome to OSS, that's some intro
Where to start
yes the 650 top end will go straight onto your 550 bottom end. I've done two way back in the past but some 550 engine top crank case needs open up a bit to fit the 650 barrels on and some don't 
ever use your 550 cams or if you use the 650 ones change the cam sprockets over.
Yes you can use the 550 carbs on the 650, and you will need to rejet anyway it you putting a different exhaust etc on.
Not used a M unit but lots on here have.
There has been a very recent posts about reg rec and battery so have a scroll down and have a read
As to front end swaps there are lots of options bending on your skill and cash. Lock stops maybe your biggest problems as new ones will need to be made but Suzuki are good as most early gsxr to bandit (with stem change) to later gsxr will all fit. You will also want to look at changing the rear to match.
Bigger than 650, you could get a 650 big bore once but not 100% if you still can, you can fit gsxr/gsxf 750 engines in the 550 quite easily.
Have a look through the project section and you will get lots of info and ideas and you can then ask even more questions
Start a build thread in the projects section with lots of pics (we like pictures) and you will get even more help
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Me and @clivegto made some blank ones
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Start around the 145 main (Dyna jet size as others differ)
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I'd go for mushrooms instead of crash bars on a sports bike, and you'd have to cut the fairing
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You did put the Thrust bearing and washer back on the rack clutch release, the thing the is in the centre of the clutch that goes into the cover
I take it the threads on the clutch hub that hold the springs in have not striped? And allowing the plate to move when you pull the clutch lever
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As @TonyGee says not 100% on what's happening, when you fit the clutch cover and the splines engages with the splines on the clutch (if they don't will not be able to fit the clutch cover) the shaft as you say will not turn by hand, you will only be able to move it with the clutch cable and leaver connected.
Unless you're saying that with the leaver and cable connected you can't pull the leaver in, then you put something in the clutch in the wrong place.
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Yes they can be changed without the engine coming out.
Remove the swingarm and unbolt the shaft drive shaft, then as you've said use a screw to pull the old one out and then fit a new one.
Check the inner sleeve the inner part of the seal sites on as the sleeves do seem to groove. I had one made up years ago.
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Should be two pipes coming from the carbs to the tap, a smaller one and a bigger one.
The smaller one is the vacuum pipe that should be fitted at number 79 (in your pic from what I can tell) but at the front part of carb.
The other is fuel pipe that goes between carbs 2 and 3
Don't run the bike for long with no vacuum pipe on or internal damage to the engine can happen.
A pic of your carbs would help sort out what you're missing.
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I think he found that the answer was no straight swap without some work, so he's gone away
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Welcome in, nice ride
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On 7/28/2023 at 9:25 PM, Crabbypants15 said:
This thread has been amazing, I recently got a '79 engine in my '78 frame, but I think I'm running into fuel/air/exhaust issues. Mechanic said it was running rich, does anyone know if the carbs need to be rejetted? I'm also using a 750 Delkevic exhaust system, not sure if that is part of my problem too...
Can you expand on this, a 79 engine? 1000/850/750/550???
78 frame again which?
What's the carbs ?
Small bits but stops use guessing on wether you put a gs1000 engine in a 750 or the other way round and if the carbs are 1000 or 750 and if they are CV or slide and are you using airbox or filters is the exhaust open race type or quite street all the above will/could affect the jetting etc
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I've only had 3 brake systems that I found a real pain to bleed, one was a set of zzr front calipers, one a set of 6 pot gsxr calipers and the other is the Billet 6 on the miss bike and non of them have to do with the M/C it's just the calipers. I've never had a problem with any of the older GS/gsx/gsxr systems. If you're having a problem bleeding them given the age try fitting a new seal kit in the standard M/C
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BBQ mate black for exhaust
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I've used bandit, sv, tl and gsxr many times before. Just don't go for the 2010 and some before as they don't have a lights on/off unless you want your lights on all the time.
And some of the latter gsxf switchs have hazard switch
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Sounds like fuel,
Take the carbs off, put them upright on a bench and get a fuel container, hang this up above the carbs (always best to have a no/tape on the fuel line for this container) turn the fuel on and wait, see if any fuel is coming out of the carbs. If so the float valves or seals are not working or you have the float height set wrong.
You can buy the fuel bottle as they help when balancing your carbs.
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Ok, step by step,
1. Check that the fuel tap is working properly, IE only let's fuel out when you suck on the vacuum pipe or it's on prime.
2. If the bike had been stud for some time with dry carbs the rubber o rings on the flot needles are probably f##ked.
3. Check if carbs are flooding.
4. Compression, is it content or does it go up or down after running good and bad.
5. How do the plugs look, black and wet or dry and sutty
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21 hours ago, slayer61 said:
Does it hurt your balls to ride a bike with that seat on it?
Pedded cycle shorts
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Big carbs
in Oil Cooled
Posted
As above NO.
Take it the engine is a standard gsxr1100k or maybe a standard b12 ?
Also as above, the 36mm carbs can easily handle 150rwbh but if you want a bit more HP keep a eye open for some gsxr750 38mm carbs.
Your not going to get anymore power out of the carbs you have, it's engine work you need to look at or spend the money on flatslides you can get a second hand set for around £400-600 maybe less if you're lucky.