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wraith

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Posts posted by wraith

  1. Lol, I was born and bred in England and 54 years later still have problems with the written English language xD

    Slabby, slabside is a gsxr750/1100 g, h, j early gsxr's 

    Teapot is the gen 1 gsx600f 

    The gen 2 gsx600/750f is a baboon arses

    B6 yes bandit 600

    B12 bandit 12

  2. 3 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

    We tune to make more power which will, unless the gearing is changed, will just get to the same speed, faster or pull more revs to go faster. Tacho's are notoriously inaccurate - especially Suzuki's - up to 1000 revs !!!

    So, as I said. I've changed the gearing and tuned the engine, so you're saying I'm right :tu or your talking bolls for someone who has built some nice powerful bikes.

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, coombehouse said:

    Interesting. So are you running a different primary gear or modified gearbox?

    Not arguing who is right or wrong, I know what my Speedo says, I know what my GPS Speedo says and I know what my rev counter says. So I will stick to that and you can stick to your computer ;)

    • Like 1
  4. Don't know about the hp/toque but I've got a b12 with ported DOT head gsx1100f cams and gsxr750 38mm carbs with gearing 16t front and 48t rear and it pulls like a train all the way from tick over to top revs in all gears, will happily sit at 80mph at 4,000 rpm all day (on a private road at that speed of course). 

    • Like 2
  5. As above on both, check the rooting or re-root so there's no tite bends. I've had it before with a heavy clutch/ not working  properly that the cable was f++ked even though it seemed ok off the bike. Dose sound like you have HD springs in the clutch and with a badly rooted and or old cable it can make the clutch like something only Popeye could only use.

  6. 1 hour ago, imago said:

    I reckon half the time with modifications, lightening things, frame bracing etc the hard part is knowing when to stop. Without doing anything at all a bike's capabilities will far exceed most rider's.

    This question is/was part of weighing (excuse the pun!) up the benefits of building an 8v motor for the Dresda vs using the 16v I already have. It really is a no brainer in that a GS motor would cost a fortune to build properly for no advantage other than looking a bit more 'period'. 

    Very true, I do like the look of a gs1000 motor and they sound great but good parts are hard to find and costly these days but saying that the gsx11 is going the same way but you already have a gsx or two 

    • Like 1
  7. If like you say the g cams are the same as the f keep them, really good all round cam. You could go for a set of gsxr750j/k cams that are a good high rev cam but you will lose the mid power to get the high fast revs.

    PS we need more pictures of this bike looks interesting and I do like a under dog build :D

    • Like 1
  8. Give or take they will be both summer, I think the gsx is slightly higher but not by much and you get more hp with the gsx. 

    You can shave weigh off them old skool ways, remove the foam from the sprocket cover and cut some of it out/drill holes put a geny and starter clutch on from a smaller bike. I remember YJ doing this on one of his gs1000 build's and he even drilled holes in all the cooling fins on the head and barrels.

    • Like 1
  9. 1 hour ago, imago said:

    It starts when you find that limit point where you can get it up off the floor, or down off the bench, but going beyond that you know is going to end in disaster.

    This hydraulic table has been an invaluable piece of kit. Slide an engine off the rack, or lift it off the floor onto the table (6").

    20231024_120841(1).thumb.jpg.59eb4111bcd04f69d0f614bf17fd5365.jpg

    Then you can either work on the table, or let it down to the height of the bench, back of the van or whatever and slide it on. (y)

    20231025_105808.thumb.jpg.739d08ddfe93f03ebcb7a55a1c154ef8.jpg

    Quite agree. My bike bench has came in for not just lifting the bike up (y)

    • Like 1
  10. 10 hours ago, Central_Coast said:

    Thanks for helping out with this problem, it's been driving me nuts for the past year, I feel like I've checked everything, and I finally broke down and had to ask for help. 

    Yes I'm getting 12v at both the coils, also just checked the 3 circuits on the ignition key switch, all good there, and still no spark at either coil. 

    "Are you getting a pulse from the ATU on the crank? " is that checking for voltage from the crank position sensor? 

    Get a side light bulb (in the holder) connect it to the wires from the ATU back plate and turn the engine over by the starter button, if it's working the bulb will flicker as you turn the engine over.

    • Like 3
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