wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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6 hours ago, DAZ said:
@wraithdid you get a chance to sort your clearance issue yet , though it's been a bit Baltic for the past few days so couldn't blame you for not being in a rush
No, I've not got anywhere near any of the bikes nevermind the project bike
still doing house stuff 
I did find some gsx750f carb rubbers on flibay but there's not much difference with the b12 rubbers I've got as spares APX 3-4mm but that would do the trick. Still got to get to the box of carb bits as it's behind a load of wood
to check the gsxr1100k carb tops and springs I know are in there.
I do need to get back on to the bikes soon as all this house stuff is starting to drive me up the wall, in more ways that one
and I've even started looking at doing a gpz900 with zzr1100 motor or a z650 with a b12 motor, so I must get back on to the bikes before i get another project 
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Can't help but it's been done quite a lot in the past and some on here have done it, so hopefully they will be along to help.
The gs1000 or 750 look cool with the gsx1100 engine in them
We will need pics you know
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
Great
. Do you have the B12 tops to measure and compare?
Yes got the b12 tops. Also got the gsxr1100k slides and springs.
Also got some gsx750f intake manifolds.
Just need to find a bit of time to have a play
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On 2/13/2024 at 9:44 AM, Dezza said:
GSXR/teapot rubbers are shorter than blandit rubbers so will bring the carbs closer to the head, which may also help solve the problem. It would be interesting to know if the GSXR/teapot carb tops go on blandit carbs and work OK though
I've got some gsxr1100k carb tops somewhere, I will have a Hunt for them and post on the sticky thread
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Nice one @DAZ
l will go and have a good read.
It's for the gsx1100f hellcat, I've got a b12 engine and carbs in it but the back of the top on the left side is just touching the fuel tap.
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Anybody know a carb top that fits the MK1 b12 but is not as high and doesn't restrict the carbs in any way?
Thanks
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You could use the front end might be just a bearing swap but the rear wheel is mutch wider from sprocket face to brack disc face, so I think you'd struggle with that one.
You'd be mutch better off using a b6 rear wheel
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Shouldn't need a different pilot jet just maybe a small turn out.
Main jet, try 150 (Dyno jet, as different makes are a different size)
Think the needle has groves to alter it.
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Lots of info on OSS and people that know what they are saying on here regarding the oil cooled motors and tweaking them.
B12 (bandit 1200) are easiest to find and can be tuned just as well as the gsxr1100.
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I'm running 15/48 on my gsx1100f powered kat, seems pretty good well I like it so that's good for me and my bike, it will still lift the front in first if you give it a good hand full and make the front light in 2nd.
I'm running a 520 chain just for clearance on the frame. 5.5" RF rear wheel with 180 tyre and I didn't need to space the front sprocket.
I myself would not go for a 630 to big and a good 530 these days are just as strong.
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1 hour ago, Poldark said:
Take a look at this
78-81 Suzuki GS1000 1100cc Bigbore Piston Kits with Head Gasket | CRUZINIMAGE.NET
They are in Japan but ship to the US; very fast shipping.
I have not yet used their pistons, but a local friend has built a few hopped up CB750 street engines with their pistons and has not had any issues.
Had a set of the 1100cc one in my old gs1000g and for a standard comp pistons I can't folt them.
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Yes we all need to learn BUT just because you x decades ago had to do it like everyone else and do the research on the net or going through different spec sheets to find your answer, does this from what you're saying because this is how you did it they have to even if you have the answer.
I've been in contact with him via pm because I now won't put messages up on the forum because trolls like you just throw your toys out the pram and just have a go and say everything wrong but your right even thow you don't give any help.
If you're going I for one won't miss your anti help nay saying, maybe you should just stick to FB
you'd probably be at home there, instead of a forum that's there to help anyone at any level, not just the people with there own bike shop or putting lots of money into a build. If OSS is now just for the pro builder's or shop owner and not here for the individual bike builder trying to make there first bike OSS is not what it use to be.
So from my point of view we don't need you.
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On 1/26/2024 at 10:15 AM, Gixer1460 said:
I think this ^^^ is the real issue, that and your inexperience with the subject in hand. I don't doubt your mechanical skills but a 4 banger isn't just a single x4, they can be waaaaay more complicated and you are trying to modify it as well without the background knowledge of what's out there or what works with what. As said very few shafties get modified into 'go faster bikes' - that isn't their reason for existence! I'd start searching for OEM overbore pistons +0.25 and + 0.50mm - they won't be common or easy to find but you never know, they'll be an easy machining job and they are designed to work with extg. stuff. Valves - why change? are they burnt up or cracked? Maybe they are ok and its the guides that are worn? Maybe the seats are damaged? Any decent shop that does head work (especially on bike heads) will be able to source parts - valves, seats, guides and seals easier and quicker than you, stumbling through the swamp that is the internet of vague & incorrect & conflicting information. May be not much help but fixing 40yr old motorcycles with minimal spares is REALLY hard these days!
Not quite sure what's up with you theses days, seems like most of your posts are just telling people how bad they are, how wrong they are etc, If you don't like people trying to build a bike these days and can only put them down whether you know them and there skills or not just don't reply if you don't want to help.
The forum was/is here to help people with there OSS bikes not keep telling them to go and Google it. We all don't know everything and there are some out there who are just starting out on building there first bike. So help out or keep out.
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2 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
@wraithIt is good stuff! I used to get it on Westgate Hill. Around £10 a bottle. Recommended mix was, iirc, 4 parts gas-1 part YCC. The required volume is fed to the carbs. Crank the engine without starting to pull mix through. Leave for 12 hrs. If no improvement, repeat. It never fails. Can go stronger mix if required. I kid you not.
I will have to keep my eye out for some
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On 1/22/2024 at 12:02 PM, Swiss Toni said:
Give YamahaCarbCleaner a go before you strip down. If it solves your problem, great! If not, at least all your internals will be nice and clean. Go for the red label, if available. Yellow label is useless shoite!
So is that the stuff you put in the fuel and run the bike?
Never heard of it before, but if you say it's good, it's good
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2 hours ago, Diego_1100R said:
i hope the quote's notify to the user
Not unless you're logged in. Or that's how it works with mine.
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It runs, so that will give you a idea of what you need to do/look at on the engine strip and re build.
If you're going to put a air box on or filters it's no point messing with the carb settings till then parts are fitted, as it will change the carb settings again.
You will need to do some up jetting for the V&H exhaust but all that can wait till the engine is done and you've fitted the air box etc. there should be lots of info out there on best settings for your bike with just a open exhaust, not like it's the first one ever done
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Don't forget the b6 MK2 will work and it's cable and being a b6 cheep
but the rota that bolts to the output shaft will probably cost you as much if not more than the side cover.
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Have seen quite a thought with MK1 b12 arms. I've not done it myself so can't say what's needed but it has been done.
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Welcome to OSS but read the rules (RTFR) before you get some shit as you've already made one big mistake
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1 hour ago, Nik said:
I don't write this to be mean, but there seem to be a major misunderstanding on your side concerning gearing. Normally I couldn't care less, but in this thread, too, you make comments like you know what you're talking about when others don't.
In the other thread you refer to, Dot head Swap On The G Bike, you state that you cruise at 80 mph at 4,000 rpm with 16/48 gears, and others claimed it couldn't be correct. It doesn't really matter, but then you imply that your engine is tuned, and therefore your gearing is different. You ridicule comments by @Gixer1460, @coombehouseand @Dezzawhen they correctly point out that your reasoning is wrong.
If your engine makes 40 hp or 240 hp, the revs at 80 mph (or any speed) are the same (everything else the same). The power doesn't change the revs at a set speed, only how fast you get there!
Please, stop ridiculing people who actually know better, calling them/us "The I know better lot", when you are the one who has misunderstood power vs gearing.
It can happen to all of us, but sometimes you have to wake up and learn.
Merry Christmas
It's just the way it was put.
But every day is a school day and we all don't know everything, I do know if you change the gearing you changed a lot but each to there own.
OSS was a place where you helped and had a bit of fun but it seems more like one up man ship these days that's a shame.
I will say merry Christmas and I mean that but like the post in general section there not many OSS people taking part in it. So have a merry Christmas and a good new year and I won't be committing on this again and maybe on other stuff, saves the nasty stuff.
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Didn't think a 17t front sprocket would fit, as the 16t you have to remove some of the rear cover bolt bit and it just messes the clutch push rod and a 17t would hit the push rod??
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1 hour ago, DAZ said:
Maths is maths!, change one part of the equation and it affects the rest!
At least you know what you're saying
unlike some on here -
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2 hours ago, DAZ said:
Depends what you want to do with the bike I found the std 15/45 ok ,if i remember correctly 80mph was about 5k (I maybe wrong but that is in my mind
) but for hooning around and what have you 15/48 made it feel slightly livelier without revving like a 600 the 1100 powerscreen uses a 52 tooth rear ...
Careful now, saying that sort of thing (15/45 and 80mph at 5k) will get the I know better lot giving you grief, like I got on another post
but your not wrong but we all know that changing your gearing won't change the revs or speed of the bike, as i was told on here but what do they know ps I'm running 16/48 and like it but looking at 15/48 for summer.
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Carb tops
in Oil Cooled
Posted
The tank needs to be lifted by about 10+mm to clear the carbs.
When I did one with a gsx750f motor it went in nicely but with the b12 being a bit taller. The one I did with the gsxf motor is one of them bikes you with you never sold.