wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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Have you tried starting it yet and dose it start ok or a bit of a bugger?
Just if the comp is that low, it would not be a easy bike to start from cold.
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Also MK2 has electronic Speedo not worn drive, so may also be different at the bottom.
Also different fork/yoke spacing which will change the mudguard spacing and front wheel spacing.
Simple answer is, No not the same or straight swap.
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That's good enough for me
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I'm I right in thinking the standard length of the gsx750/1100et rear shocks are 330mm?
What size are people using?
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+1 with above
I like the pipe work out the bottom, less pipe work.
Think it's all down to personal choice
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I've had a oil cooled crankcase welded up before, when I put a Conrod through it and that was a big hole.
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I haven't seen a really good 2nd hand b12 gear box, they all seem to have at least wear/pitting on the teeth.
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Robinson do them new, £80 each dog bone, 2nd gear £65 and 5th gear £99
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Maybe a bit late for this one
but any of the gs750/850/1000/1100 or gsx 750/1100 et and gsx1100/1150efe type exhaust system will fit but you will need to make/alter the end can bracket
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Think the best way forward for you is to buy new gear cogs and maybe dog bones and have your crank case welded up.
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Start the mid wight one started, then when you get bord of one you have another two to play with
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The XN85 was a interesting bike but compared to the gpz750 turbo it was well short on power.
With a good turbo on it etc it would be good fun, go for it
you know you're going to be getting bored when you have finished the one you're doing -
You can put the hole 650 top end on the 550 bottom end, done it twice
Once the 650 barrels went straight on the 550 bottom end then on the later one I had to open the 550 crankcase a bit for the 650 barrels
So I'd say yes the 650 head will fit the 550.
I've also used the 650 katana carbs on a 550 with a CV head but I don't know if the port spacing is the same, as just used the 550 rubbers.
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I think the 1100f cases have different size bearings to the gsxr cases and the b12 gear box is different as well.
Hope I'm wrong on this one.
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I think they all interchange
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32 minutes ago, clivegto said:
It's a weird one I think, I've never been able to get rid of the slight miss on the Turbo Scratcher at around 3500 revs but it can be ridden round by dropping a gear or accelerating through it and it's been on 4 different dynos. I know @Allspeedshad the same problem on his gsxr Turbo and he's got his own Dyno. Yours isn't a Turbo I know but it's the same rev area that its doing it.
Yes can ride with it, revs all the way through with no problems and no stutters or flat spots
and when riding at 3.500 - 4000 rpm it just has this small burble. When you open the throttle it just revs straight through all in all very happy with it.
Don't know how much time I will get to have a play with it as 1. Getting into the new place and 2. The nice weather is here and will want to just ride the other bikes as much as I can
Thanks for the info
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O rings are new and installed when I built the engine not long ago.
Thanks for the info
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1 hour ago, Buzuki said:
After constant ride at 3,5-4000 rpm remove and visually check the faces of the spark plugs , if the faces are black and greasy than your carbs runs rich , and opposite if the spark plugs faces are dry and almost grey to white than your carbs runs lean .
So, which to adjust, the needles or pilots?
As it's just on that part of the revs where they swap over. Or just try one then the other, which is my normal way
I'm thinking the needles, as it runs great below 3000 rpm and over 5000 rpm runs great
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Ok, had to move the Hellcat (house move) so took the opportunity to go for a test ride (on a private road of course).
The bike seems to run fine apart from a slight burble/stutter when riding at a constant 3.5 to 4 rpm (not a flat spot)
As all my books etc are in storage and the grey matter is not 100% sure, is this ritch or lean? And should I look at needles or pilot jets?
For when I need a bit of down time for house
B12 engine, with ported head, gsxr cams, open exhaust gsxr750 38mm carbs set at 150 main jets, needles in center grove, pilot jets at 3 turns out, k&n filters.
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That could of been nasty, hope all is well inside.
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I just used the b6 push rod but they are very easy to make to any length out of some 6mm round bar, made a push rod out of Titanium for my oil cooled kat
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Running on 3 cylinders. Start it up check which down pipes are hot, then have a look/replace the plug on the cylinder that's not running.
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As above, a good upgrade on the standard b12/gsxr 36mm CV carbs for power/top end BUT if you don't know what they are off they may need re- spacing. If you don't know what your doing with carbs and theses type of carbs they will need setting up on a Dyna rolling road which won't be cheep.
Also if they have not been stored properly they will need a strip down and good clean.
You could just take your carbs off and see if theses will fit (right spacing) and give them a run, you maybe lucky and they came off a oil cooled motor
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Welcome to OSS
The 1000 and 850 (as above) won't swap over, you can't swap the carbs ever as different port spacing. The 850 and 1000 cams will swap but you will need to change the cam chain sprockets.
The best GS head to tune is the gs1100g head, as it's a CV head and has the D ports that are the best for a good flow.
Like all engine tuning it's not just one thing but a package of exhaust, carbs, filters, cams, bore etc etc etc.
Your best bet with your new 850 project is to buy some new carb rubbers (runners as you call them) and a new carb seal kit, get the carbs Ultrasonic bathed cleaned fit the new carb seal kit and ride it, save your time for the gs1000
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180° oil cooler fittings.
in Oil Cooled
Posted
One more for Torques
You can get stuff slightly cheaper off the bay but it's not as good