wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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Had a similar problem with one of my bikes last year or so, could ride the bike around with no problems, then come back to it hours/days later and it would only run on 3 cylinders but the non running cylinder would swap between all 4 cylinders at a random bases. Put a new or second hand plugs in and it would run on all 4 straight away
Tried all sorts of things from different brands of plugs CDI, ATU, Dyna 2000 system, cleaned carbs lost count how many times even put new HT leads on the Dyna coils (but was getting a good spark on the old ones). Ended up this year replacing the coils for standard b12 MK1 ones and it's been ok (upto now) still at a total loss why as everything tested good and could understand it if it was always the same cylinder but as you say change the coils see how it goes and hope it sorts it for you.
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I've never used a satnav thing always been on the old type paper maps (old dispatched rider) but I can see how they are helpful, if you don't have regular fuel/petrol stations and only (like my bikes) have APX 100 ISH miles range on a tank of fuel in a place with a big expanse to travel you need to know how far you need to go.
Must say thow, a lot of the best riding roads I've found are ones I didn't intend to be on
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Velcro (strong) not the top yoke or zip tyres to the top yoke?
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Get a mate with a bike that has standard handle bars and let him lead
you can then just enjoy the ride and it will be all his fault if it goes wrong 
Must admit never had my phone on the handle bars, as I just don't trust them holders to keep my phone there and not going down the road after every bump and there's a lot of bumps in the roads in the UK
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4 hours ago, imago said:
The tight bastard probably thought they'd save a couple of bob by not chroming some and calling it a 'special feature'.
If you see a scratched/worn cap from an ET or whatever it's that brass colour underneath the chrome.
Also, back then spraying chrome wasn't good as it never lasted
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16 minutes ago, imago said:
Isn't that the metal that's under the original (piss thin) chrome?
I know the caps on the katana are that brass colour type not silver. So I presume that Mr Suzuki used the same cap for other models, not the he does that
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My kat one was the same, did polish it but it looked odd with the silver polished bits, so I painted it black.
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Mist that bit of the tensioner at limit.
New cam chain or/and blades needed
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Got to be a carb problem, engine fires 1/4 and 2/3.
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The cam chain tensioner spring go weak and you'd be surprised how much different they make, new spring is about £10
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You won't regret the 1100f cams
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Yes will help, I've get a set of gsxr750 j/k cams in my b12 (MK1) and worth doing. The gsxf1100 cams are also a very good set of cams.
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Welcome to OSS
Good start with the bike etc. As to the quote bit
can be a pain if you hit the quote button by mistake, all I've found is you need to go back onto the main section, then return to you post, when you then press the reply to topic button at the bottom it will come up with keep or clear edit post, press the edit/clear and it will then remove the quote from that reply.
If anyone knows better or other way please step in
If you haven't yet have a look through the project section, lots of great builds in there and lots of food for thought
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Pics ?
+1 on above
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Have you the correct back light bracket?
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Just use the 600 ATU etc on the 1200, use the 1200 Geny or you will need to change the 600 Geny sprocket for a 1200 one as the 600 are bigger (just found that out myself) apart from that plug and play.
As @TonyGee says what you thinking about running gear as the 1200 will not like the 600 suspension
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You could try heat.
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Not done a gsx engine for years but if I remember, yes should have the o ring seals on out side studs and a seal around the cam chain tunnel.
Someone will be along who can say for definitely.
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Someone posted a simmer thing, shock swap about a month or so ago. Don't know the out come but might be worth doing a search.
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Coming together
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If you just want to get the best out of the standard engine, what you have is about the best without going into the engine its self. You could fit a ignition advancer or slot your back plate, will give a better response at bottom end but some say you lose top?
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How far do you want to go?
Can't remember the front and rear spindle sizes ?
If the rear spindle is 20mm you could put a b6 rear wheel in I would think, if not 20mm but is smaller the b4 has a smaller spindle size.
Front wheel is a bit more difficult as you have spindle size and spacing of discs and mounting the calipers.
If you really want to go for it, have a look at my project Hellcat.
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Haven't used that kit so don't know what's in it.
As the carbs will be striped make sure the needles are not worn, I would think they will be at this age and also the emulsion tubes are not worn/ovel
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I think (as most UK spec one are) the jet on the inside of the float bowl will be blocked off anyway, so you just need to glue it back on to stop extra air going up the pipe to the top of the carb.
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Anti-dive Delete
in Air Cooled
Posted
People/I, use to just remove the unit and put a blanking plate on instead, might make the forks a bit stiffer. Did one on a gsx550efe and it had no affect on fork stiffness and did one on a gsx750s1 and the forks where stiffer