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wraith

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Posts posted by wraith

  1. 11 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:

     

    Do any companies sell shift linkage in various lengths? All I’m finding here in the states is crap for Harleys. 

    Don't know what the bay is like over there but I've used the Chinese ones on quite a thought bikes 

    373838430430 Eblag number 

    265865237180 

    (y)

     

     

    • Like 1
  2. High uncomfortable rear sets are ok for quick track days but if you're using it for riding on the road make them comfortable or you will end up not riding the bike.

    Did the same one one of my bikes nice and high rear sets but found after 15 minutes on the bike I was getting cramp in my legs, so the ride wasn't fun and my riding went down hill, I then put them at a more comfortable place and loved riding the bike, end of the day on the road I'm not going as fast round bends as you would on the track.

    • Like 2
  3. 2 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:

    don't waste money on an ignition advancer. Make your own.

    Just slot the holes on the plate the pick-ups are amounted on, this gives you adjustable advance. One mm on the edge of the plate equals 1 degree.

    You best also say which way to rotate it, clock wise or anti clockwise ;) and pics are always good xD

    • Like 1
  4. 9 minutes ago, Metralla said:

    Thanks for all the replies!
    So...

    1. No DOT head.
    2. BST34s and stock airbox.
    3. FactoryPro jet kit that might need rejet, I have a jet gauge to compare them with Mikunis. I had bad experience from DynoJet, they worn badly after 12.000 miles.
    4. Hindle exhaust.
    5. Fast road cams and I will add adjustable sprockets.
      • Kent cams or Web cams?
        • Are Kents exchange only?
    6. I will put an ignition advancer.
    7. Benefits of porting?
    8. Benefits of skimming? I would immagine higer compression would be really noticable midrange.
    9. Benefits of big valves?

    Money is not an issue, unitl they become an issue --> I need tuner recommendations in order to get a quote for headwork labour cost.

    130RWHP depends a lot on the dyno, on the dyno I am talking about, a Stock 1052 made 115RWHP a tad less than a stock GSXR750K6 (118RWHP). The figure is totally indicative, If the bike is smooth and feels faster across the rev range.
     

    Skimming the head, will give you a bit more toque but not a huge amount.

    Bigger valves, no point with standard bores, if anything will be a step backwards.

    Porting, yes. Will help the gas flow better and will probably give the best result, apart from exhaust. 

    Cams, down to you, some like one make some like the other.

    As the the gsxr1100 ghj and only having APX 115 rwbh compared to 118 rwbh on a gsxr750k6. The bikes are a world apart and you can't compare them. 

    It's like saying why don't my old xr2 fiesta go as fast as a new ST. It's just a fact old stuff (without doing a lot of work ) is just slower, sorry.

    • Like 1
  5. If you want to keep the standard airbox you are restricted to what carbs and the power they will give you. Stick to the standard carbs, as you are wanting to stay with the Standard bore as well, the only real gains you're going to get is to put a good Fred flowing exhaust system on have the head flowed/ported and some Dyno time. That's the best you will get with the restrictions you're putting on the bike, you'd be very lucky to get anywhere near 130bhp rw you might get 120bhp rw if you're very lucky but be prepared for much less.

     

    • Like 2
  6. Yes you do notice the difference :D can't say I was one of the first, as this this was a early thing to do (like putting the 850 top end on a 750 or putting a 1000 engine into a 750)

    Can't say how the engine is going now as I sold it and put a gsxr1052 in the frame instead :banana:

  7. I believe they are all the same for all the air cooled bikes,

    Two main one for battery and one for starter and one wire yellow/green for the starter button and black/white earth.

    Last one I got was off the bay, it was one of the cheep Chinese ones cost me £10 3 years ago and it's still working :D

    I've even used the kawi ones before but they don't have the earth wire, if I remember right.

    • Like 1
  8. Hi Andy welcome to OSS.

    Apart for all the standard bits to look at when buying any bike/car xD 

    The two things I've heard about that can give you trouble, is fuel tank rusting (as said above) and carbs leaking. Which could be the float needle seats and they can't be replaced (easy) 

    So do all your standard checks to see if you like the bike, start it up, let it run/take it for a run, should be nice and smooth all the way through the rev range. When you turn the engine off leave it for 10 minutes and see if any fuel or oil has dropped under the bike. If not and it runs good and you like it, get it.

    Some my say price is a bit high some would say about right, seen these go for anywhere between £1200 to £2400

    • Like 2
  9. 2 hours ago, DAZ said:

    Yeah but I bet you hardly need to replace your front tyre !!! Probably set off in 3rd ,that's a big gear on the back

    Standard gearing for the gsx1100f power screen is 15/52 but they also run on a 34mm carb :)

    I'm running 38mm and you it will lift the front in theard gear.

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