wraith

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Can anybody tell me if the mk2 b12 front master cylinders (brake and clutch) are the same as mk1? Will the leavers swop etc. Thanks.

Nice one, thanks.

As you will know, the gsxr cams give more top end power over the standard b12 cams. The jr5 (I believe) will give the same sort of boost as you got when you swiped the b12 for the gsxr. Hope this helps, without going into slotted can sprockets etc.

OK all, Sorting the DOT head I have, for the B12 motor that I'm rebuilding for the et project. My question is as I have a full gasket set for the B12, can I use the valve oil seals from the B12 on the DOT head valve oil seals ? Thanks

Welcome to OSS. Two nice rides you have there

Cheers all, can now do some playing with front end.

You could say, get a big stick, and if that dose not work get a bigger hammer, and if dose not work, get a fat mate.

That's a good question, I know, using a GS/GSX 750,1000,1100 frame to get the ground clearance about 760mm ( or should I say I'm using gsxr1100k on my kat ) but this will be for a gs650 framed project, so may get away with a shorter fork?

The gsxr750 slingshot are 730mm (rwu) the gsxr1100 slingshot are apx 760mm, don't know about the RF6 but, I fort the srad forks where 45mm diameter? Something in the back of my head says the RF6 forks where 41mm diameter?

Looking at some gsxr600 srad (96-98 rwu) forks for a project, and I need to know what length they are? Was told by one person they are 775mm? Someone else told me 730mm? Both from top to center of spindle. Any help thanks.

I've always done the piece of steel bar (same as the wood but stronger) and it works every time just make you use a good seized bar once used a 25mm tube and ended up bending it now use a 20mm solid steel bar, with a 24" breaker bar. Job done

OK all, I have a set of gsxr1100 slingshot rwu forks on my Kat, I have got some progressive fork springs from a b12 mk1. Will the b12 springs fit the gsxr1100? Cheers.

Check your STARTER MOTOR, as they are a 30 year old part and they may work but will be worn and can course slow turning over of the engine and power drain on the battery

Looking nice, as to the cranking slow, try a different starter or new brushes also try a extra earth wire (coming from one of the two 6mm bolts that hold the starter motor in place and run it to the frame/battery)

Hi, Has anybody got any sizes for the gsxr750srad/gsxr1000 water cooled (carb model) motors? Main thing total high from top of can cover to top of sump cover? If anybody has a pic of one that would help as well, as I can see the angle of the carbs and how they relate to the rest of the motor. Thanks.

Welcome to OSS Yes their is something wrong there GS1000 start very well, my GS1000 Start's first push of the button, apart from when its -0 or below, which I don't think you will get that sort of temperature in Texas

Mmmm that's weird, I have one in my gs850/1000g years back I know it was a bit of a wiggle. You had to remove the hub, then put the wheel in by sliding it in from the l/h side (from the rear) with the hub still off then put the spinel in place without the spacer (r/h side) and rear brake mount. Then twist the wheel sideways with the spinel in place (so the front part of the wheel is twisted over to the left and the rear over to the right) locat the hub on the wheel and bolt up the hub onto the swing arm. Then remove the spinel and place the spacer and rear brake hanger, replace the spinel and bolt up I had apx 5mm between the tyre and swing arm. Just to make shore it the gsx1100g 4.5" rear wheel with a 160 tyre.

RF600 front goes strate into a b6 and uses the same discs, brakes, spacers etc but its a 3.5" rim so a 120 front tyre instead of a 110

PS. You will find the DOT head will make a lot of difference.

Mr Suzuki did the standard can timing as a good all round timing, if you where tuning the motor and wanted the most bhp out of it then yes slotted cam sprockets and doing the cam timing is good but if you're after a good easy motor and don't need/want to get evey bhp out of it keep the standard timing. Don't for get with can timing you can give it more bhp or more torque

You just have to remove the driver hub each time you want to remover the wheel

I think you will find the gsx1100g 4.5" rear will fit.

The high beam is the weaker part of the bulb and what may be happing is the small wire on the high beam is corneting to the low beam and over loading that ? May also be a bad wire posable head stock area? Try riding with just the low beam on with new bulb and see if it still blows. Also headlamp is not lose and bouncing about/coursing more vibrations?

Nice one cheers.