Del

And if it has a 4 spring clutch and helically cut primary drive,then it is a gsx1100f 1127cc . And they also did an 1156cc in the first b12(95-96)

Yes mate,straight fit.I am using a bandit sump on my 11k,which uses the same sump,oil-cooler and hoses,as your 1100m

Just double checked,555mm comes just above the bottom yoke,so it is definitely the stanchions alone measurement. As Rob said,it is physically impossible for the overall length to be 555mm,as the wheel would be rubbing on the oil-cooler

(IIrc,it's been a few years)My 11k rwu's(720-30mm) were slightly shorter than my 750 usd's(740mm).That is fork top to centre of the spindle . The 11k forks were 20mm longer than my old 750k forks because the 11 used top mount clip-ons. The 555mm measurement is for the fork stanchions alone

As above,break up a speaker magnet and slide it in around the hole were the fuel tap goes,no more rust in the tap or carbs Cheap rust remover from the tank,is the cheapest nastiest coke that you can buy(Happy shopper and tesco 17p value coke works really well),5 litres will do,swill around and leave to stand for 3 days. Empty out and leave in a dry,warm place(airing cupboard).Then swill out with clean fuel. Did my brothers tls tank and fuel pump holder,now they are clean and rust free

Not on the Bandit sumps,they feed from the front like the gsxr1100k/l/m/n,teapots(the 98 onwards use the same sumps as the bandits),powerscreen,Inazuma 400-1200(also use the same sumps as bandits)gsx750w/x/y(again also use the same sumps as the blandits)and gsxr750j/k.So hoses can be swapped between them The only ones that are different,are the slabby 750/1100's and gsxr750l/m(and USA only gsxr750n).These feed from underneath the sumps,they all also use the same sumps

Yes, all oil-cooled(400-1200)sumps are interchangeable.With the bandit sumps,you will also need the round oil strainer/pick-up

It was me

There is no real difference between the the 750l/m and 1100k-n frames.The 11k frame is slightly lighter than the 750l/m and 11l-n frames,as it doesn't have the castlatted adjuster at the arm pivot,the 11k also has the added bonus of a removeable top shock mount like the 750's(it also uses the same linkages as the 750's with a 10mm longer arm).I have had 750j/k/l/m and 11k frames now.The 750j/k were the smallest and the 11k/l/m frames were all about the same size. On my 11k,I am using 750 running gear(just got a 750k arm for it)and bodywork.It is setup with a hagon shock from an 1100ws(slightly longer than the k shock)and 750l front end dropped through the yokes by 30mm(no clearance problems).I set it up for me and handles really well(stayed with my other brothers old 1000k4) You can also tell there isn't alot of difference between the slingshot frames,as I am using the 750k full bodywork on mine.The mid panels just need pulling into place(no bracket is needed like the slabby 750/11 mid panel swaps)because of the top end height difference between the 748 and 1127cc(I am even using a full 4-1 micron system from a 750L,just needed a bandit sump fitting,as the collector sits on the sump plug) In this pic,you can see there is no real difference between the 2 frames.Sonny's old resident evil 7/12 and my 11k

They can be made to be light,just by swapping the front and back end on mine,I have knocked 50kg off of the weight

88/89 750j/k light only weighs 1kg with bulbs

130 mains.I did fit 140,but when setup on the dyno it went down to 130's

They are the same

All the mods are on Stve's Tl pages http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/53/60/

If you go onto the First Generation slabby page on Faceache,Hans on there should beable to advise on what to do(iirc a few others on there,have also done this swap)or should beable to point you in the right direction https://www.facebook.com/groups/1stGenGSXR/ https://www.facebook.com/hans.dornbos?fref=nf

Ebc stock them

Says the size on the link to marksman

It was in issue September 94,I have a copy here,so i'll scan it later and send it to you

It was only the 1988 teapot 600 that had bst31ss metal tops(same as the bst34ss),the 89-97 teapot 600 got slingshot bst33ss,which are just smaller bore versions of the bst36ss cv's.Then the 98 got the crap bsr cv's

As above,7/11 it The teapot 7/11 in this shootout beat the gsxr 7/11's

http://www.raggededgeracing.com/47.html

You don't need to swap stems on the srad,k-series,busa,tls/r,etc yokes,just needs a bearing swap and modify the lockstops You just need the slabby/ slingshot 32006 bottom bearing and a 32906 bearing,from Marksman,for the top bearing http://shop.marksman-ind.com/99-3540-5-30x47x12-taper-roller-bearing-32906-15086-p.asp

Those are bst38's on my brothers 11g with the ramair fillter socks I only glued the first set that I fitted to the bst34ss',this was because the b6 airbox rubbers where abit lose in them,but they would have worked without glue. That glue you can see in the pic,is what was left over from my first trial fit. I didn't use any glue on the next set that were fitted to the bst38ss'.The ramair's worked excellent on the 38's and we got good results when setup on the road and track dyno(then the engine went pop,but that was nothing to do with the fueling,just old an age 1052,valve stem oil seals knackered and low compression.Originally had a Mr Turbo setup fitted to it). Stay away from single filters on cv's,they won't work properly. What carbs are you using?

Another set of dual filters which are also designed for the slabby/slingshot frames,is the ones from piperX.They are also a really good filter to use ,but cost around the same as the k&n duals when new http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GSXR1100W-98-93-2X-60mm-ID-PIPERCROSS-POWER-CONE-FILTERS-MPX1004-/181323270387 This is PiperX' Eblag shop http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Pipercross-60mm-id-Dual-Cone-Filter-X-2-Air-Filter-for-Suzuki-GSXR1100W-89-93-/311636359912

If you are running cv's,then don't used individual filters(they are okay for flatties),you will never get it right.Also don't use k&n dual filters,they scrunch up on the slabby/slingshot frames and are not really suited to the bst cv's(some say they are okay,but i've never got good results from them),plus they are quite expensive. The ramair filter socks and silicone bellmouth/reducers(or airbox rubbers) are much more suited to the bst cv's and fit in the space better.Plus they cost £25(k&n are about £90) http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-PERFORMANCE-FOAM-SOCK-AIR-FILTERS-SUZUKI-GSXR1100-89-1993/390490981793 http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Universal-60mm-76mm-Air-Filter-Induction-Kit-Silicone-Reducer-Connector-/271135577125 And this is others who have used them. This is a set I made earlier.1100 with bst38ss