Jdeac

Hi all I've noticed a little oil starting to come out of the bov. And looking at the turbo after my last round yhe centre housing looks to have had a little oil weep on it. Carge pipe was wet around the bov. this has been cleaned off Is it rebuild time??

Hammers to the front please lol. Good luck all.

@Gixer1460understood cheers

I may have had a beer or ten. All these seat units are different. @clivegtopost shows a rear light fitted. There is no angular shapes to the seat unit. Like the classic bandit posted above. Modified airtech I'm going for

Is it an airtech seat

Would this not suggest 2nd 3rd and 4th are on stage 2.

Connector from the switch. Single orange- purple input 1 on controller Brown,blue,pink- brown/yellow input 2 on controller

4 wires into the switch that is in the bike

@Gixer1460Save me taking it apart again. So this b12 switch. Small dot neutral. Next dot first. Next second. On the other switch in the bike. Neutral 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th. Don't want to complicate things what happens when 5th is engaged.

@Gixer1460OK. I get what you saying sort of. Electrics are a head ache to me. So would not even know where to begin. But from what your saying there maybe a way to switch some thing to bring full boost into third.

@Gixer1460care to explain. Or at a guess. 1st selected before the line. Each pickup for 2nd to 5th

Or could it be that it's ramping up in every gear already. And I'm just not used to it. My First turbo bike!! And I'm just feeling the extra pull in forth. I guess a dyno would tell me the answer. Just concerned about this as it has no oil cooler. Was told though. That it makes full power from 4th

It's hard to see what wires are going where. And I don't want to pull it apart.

@mikeydit's has dyna 2000 also. Dyna limiter box. There is an air shifter on the bike also. Input 1 and 2 definitely go to the neutral switch. It's also wired for 2step/launch of the clutch switch. I have this disconnected at race meets. Bit have used it on some land for practise. I'm think my best option is to leave it as is. And just work out a new gear ratio for the 8th mile. Or turn up stage 1 boost level a couple of psi. ( I worry about doing this though)

Done. And run up does sound smoother. God knows where/when that disappeared

@BlubberWell there is no vac tap. So I shall cap it. Did think it was strange. Cheers

Hi all again. Another question. Just looking over my bike. And have just noticed 1 carb top vacuum nipple is open. Is this right? Pot 4 and 3 are teed together then to bov Pot 3 to fpr Pot 1 open Turbos are new to me. And I'm just looking over things. Checking bolts hoses etc. And saw the above

@Gixer1460yes ive downloaded it. It baffles me lol. The 1000 looks loads easyier to use. Just missed a 1000 on that site. Sold for 150. Bloody phone froze Electrics are not my thing Looks like all inputs are activated from a ground though. Launch/2step and so on. Just don't get how it goes full boost in 4th. It definitely pulls alot harder in 4th when on the quarter.

Hi all. Anyone used or have knowledge of using an ams 500 boost controller. My setup seems to be set to 15psi stage 1 then stage 2 20psi with a ramp rate of 60 psi per second. It's wired for 2 step Input channels 1 and 2 are wired into the neutral switch. So I was told it makes full boost in 4th gear. So How does it know when it's in 4th?? And is there any way to make/switch that to come on full boost in 3rd. This is on a sprint/drag bike (pyro) And I'm running 1/4 mile and 8th. Curious if it can be done. Or is changing gearing the best way forward. If it ain't broke don't fix it???

Some nice looking machines there. Hope you have fun.

OK.

What was the result?? Curious