Joseph

If you don't want to weld on your swingarm just weld two plates on the frame to replace what has been cut off, and you can use the GSXR torque arm Easy to do and it's steel so no fancy welding required.

I've been reading just that topic on my french gsxr forum. A couple of guys confirm that F cams on b12 fit and make for a nice beefy increase

The hanger he is showing is likely a slingshot one ? so it's a moving hanger with the bushing and seals. @TrunKzturn it over if it is a slingshot one you should see what i mean This is how it is built (parts 4-5-6) :

Whats the difference ? Do you have side to side pictures ?

1127F same as 1052R i believe, so that will indeed make a difference

The tabs got cut off by a previous owner ? Welder time then

On my Katana and GSX-E i ditched the center stand and used that point to fit the torque arm. Seems like the usual move when upgrading this kind of points on these bikes

Xexpress explained in this topic : https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/15814-accepted-wisdom-for-carb-removal-from-30-year-inlets-1100m/page/2/#comment-192196

Xexpress.fr much cheaper than CMSNL Proper discount for real OE parts. It's like they sell to people at the sort of prices before garage mark up I also have a Scheibel S/S 4-2-1 zorst for air cooled if you like, it's not exactly worth much

GSX1400 also has 6 speed it has the Hayabusa box i believe

I know i shouldn't hijack a thread to sell shit but I have an aircooled stainless 4-2-1 i can sell for very cheap if that can help you friend out to get his bike back on the road and enjoy it

Oil cooled header 41mm OD "Fit an oil cooled header"

Air cooled header 47mm OD :

Last time i checked the exhaust ports of an air cooled engine are larger than an oil cooled, also tube bend angles are not really that similar, so are they really interchangeable ?

Wash it first though

I traced it back to the rear switch, but it wasn't the adjustement, i unraveled the wrapping to discover the feed wires in the loom had been pinched at some point by me (i have been removing fitting the airbox a few times lately) and were making permanent contact I have improved somewhat in motorcycle wiring since i rebuilt this one 3 years ago

Right. It seemed that lighting results were inconsistent, so i traced it down to the wiring of the bulber holder was a bit iffy, including the earth wire, as per Tonys advice. So i remade and replaced those wires with the nipples that the bulb socket touch in the holder. But having repaired the earth wire, now the +12 i'm getting permanently off the brake wire feed, is now putting the brake light on as soon as you flick the Ignition key on Investigation continues

Argh buggery bugger. I am hoping for a Glitch post rebuild. But saying the EFE box removal needs attention and i have hardly ridden this thing its been ages so memory could be failing me However I do believe the rear worked fine, i mean it's a ground up resto and i like electricals normally, i would have been looking for that satisfaction upon testing all the system before wrapping it all up I will investigate good earth as Tony said now and see

Hey I'm usually good at this, but, here i'm not getting any understanding of whats going on. I'm doing a service and check over of my EFE Katana. I notice that the tail light is not acting properly, any of the functions. Ignition key switch on : Side light position on : Ride light on : (The plate light bulb dims a bit) The brake light does not come on. What i have tested/checked : - bulbs are both good - both brake switches do the connection when tested - i have postive 12V at the orange green light of the brake light system with ignition switched on - i have tested that there is 12V at the white/black wire that feeds the brake bulb. AT ALL TIMES ???? But the brake doesn't come on ???? - I have tested connections between the tail light plug, and the ligh bulb poles in the Taillight body. All is good by the looks of it. There was an electric box thingy on the EFE that i didn't use. Is it related to the dash functions/lights etc ? I supposedly rebuilt this loom as a Katana loom so it got slimmed down a bit. Any ideas as to what else i should check ? Thanks

Yeah, funny that the pussy rider mode wire is light pink that said it's a RF, it could have been the charger wire for a vibrator

Edit : that was the most efficient google search ever. Should have looked first but i guess it's here for OSS future reference :

Ah it could be ? Although the donor bike was a theft salvage retrieve and was pretty mashed up so couldn't have been that hard to steal Also maybe why the wire detail isn't explicit on the diagram indeed

Hey I'm currently using a RF900 wiring loom on a project bike (cobbling together a 7/9) Here is the diagram : Since they are not the same shape and we're moving electric accessories around under the tail, there is a bit of work. Anyways, got to the ECU Our of curiosity, where is that pink wire supposed to connect to ? Funny cause on the diagram it looks exactly like IRL : a stray wire with bullet connector and rubber isolator. But no indication of what that terminal on the ECU is for. Any ideas ?

It is indeed crucial to use the whole matching assembly from one end to the other of the clutch system otherwise it won't work properly

11F pushrod is 92mm 11R 1127 pushrod is 101.5mm