imago

Useful info, thanks. I'll get it all together with the Cowley exhaust on and start with the standard carbs then. See how that goes and take it from there.

It's not so much about performace as getting it to run 'right' across the range with pods. I found (back in the day) that no matter how much you faffed about with jetting it was always a compromise. Bogged in one range, pulled well but hunted on neutral throttle etc. So I was wondering if anyone had found something better suited. Saving me a load of 4rse ache with trial and error basically. If there's nothing known to be better then at least the carbs on carbs off hokey cokey will be easier without an airbox to fight when swapping jets around.

I have standard carbs, both decent and for parts. I was just wondering if there were any alternatives which better suit pods and the extra air flow. I'd like to convert to injection but the electrical output is an issue that needs a solution before I go down that route, so I'll leave that nest of snakes to a later build. Now that the stock + 1170 is nearly done the rough plan for the others is:- 1) A second mint/shiny/standard (then sell one of them). 2) A full on OSS style 'modify everything because you can'. 3) A moderately modified but not overly shiny decent bike for general use. As mentioned before this will have period/80s mods like a Micron fork brace, Cowley exhaust etc. Number 3 on that list will be the next to do, so I'm keeping with carbs, but whatever suits best will be the order of the day.

Looking forward a bit I think the next thing on the bench will be the 1100 that's going to be a 'jump on and go' build. The general idea is not going too far with cosmetics, and adding '80s upgrades. I have most of the stuff and a plan but one bit which I could do with some input on is the carbs/jetting for pods. So my question is, what are the most suitable carbs to use on an 1100 if you're fitting pod filters? I suppose the other thing would be pod recommendations.

Another vote for the black seat. The white seat looks a bit 'Buck Rogers' for my taste.

The piston numbers look like Wiseco 1168 and the bore (75mm) would tie up with that too. 28mm inlet valves would most likely be EF valves and the exhaust valves standard size. The head's a mess but may be OK. I wouldn't like to say just based on photos though. As @Gixer1460said, plus in the bottom centre of the second photo that looks like it could be a bit of ring still embedded, which would obviously be a bad thing. If you're not sure of your own judgement/experience on that side of things you'd be best to get someone to have a look at that head before using it.

That too, although at the moment prices seem to be through the roof for anything on two wheels from fashionable to knackered.

True, you could probably flog it on a certain auction site and have enough to get the other seat recovered in unicorn hide with mermaid hair piping.

Just taking the Mick. 'Hipster' bikes aren't to my taste, but you often spot some nice ideas and quality work on them for inspiration. The problem comes when something is fashionable and gets done to death, street fighters, cafe racers, trackers etc etc.

Brown seat?

I believe it's one of those 'brown seat and beard oil' events.

It shouldn't be, but it's amazing how many of those stunts which weren't a problem at the time start creeping out of the woodwork once you've got a bit more age and mileage under the belt.

I used to use that, but now I use the floor protection sheets like this from Wickes. It's thinner so doesn't get in the way, it doesn't snag like faom, and it offers much better protection from a drag or bump. Just cut the length and tape it round the frame or whatever else needs covering.

That's the fella, cheers.

If you click on the little camera icon next to that one it shows the actual gasket, and it's a 20 bolt gasket. I believe the 24 bolt is from the later Kats and they added four bolts around the cam chain chest to stop some issues they had with leaks?

Does anyone know what the part number is for the 24 bolt Katana 1100 cam cover? I need one for the head that I've put on the ET but when I look at Robinsons under the Kat section it offers "16 hole" or "20 hole".

Purely anecdotal, but the 8v heads seem to be more sensitive to variations between caps than the 16v. Presumably that's because of improved manufacturing techniques? In any event, the give away is looking at the parts diagrams for them and you'll see that the caps come with the cylinder head and aren't available separately. Also worth bearing in mind that the two bolt caps will go on either way round and that will cause them to pinch too.

Hopefully when things ease up a bit and things become a bit more certain with shows you'll be oversubscribed with 'lockdown builds'.

For me it comes down to what you want from the finished bike. If it's performance first and foremost then it should be the oil cooled lump as they're lighter and have more power 'out of the box' so any additional spend will be give gains from a higher starting point so the cost per increase over original will be lower. If it's 'coolness' then you go for the air cooled. Air cooled lumps will arguably look better in the frame, and you don't need a ruddy great radiator hanging off the front of the frame. If you want coolness and performance then get ready to be poor.

To be fair, Suzuki don't help much. You have 1980 MY ETs built in 1979, 1980 MY ETs sold in 1981, 1981 MY EXs sold in late 1980, EXs built with both silver and black engines. Then you have 'export' market ET/EX which were shipped and sold in countries other than the intended markets, and then the end run stuff from '81 which had all kinds of anomalies to run out the parts bins.

It's a nice looking machine, but it'd be a real stretch to call it an ET/EX. Fair play, it looks like someone found a tank and used that as a starting point for the build.

That'd be great thanks. TL S or R, I just need the horizontal distance . No, it's a photo from TL zone. I don't have a TL or know anyone local who does, and I want to work out a couple of things but I need that measurement to start with.

If anyone has a TL1000 (complete or frame) handy could you take a measurement for me please? I need to know the horizontal distance from the swing arm pivot to the base of the headstock tube. (Between the blue lines in the pic.)

It's all relative I suppose, but £120 (ish) doesn't seem that expensive? Certainly cheaper than getting a rewind. Here for example, and it even comes with marinised connectors.

If you've run it up over the winter it will be condensation. It forms when the engine cools, the air inside it contracts as it cools and draws in moist air, the moisture condenses on the inside of the cases.