imago

I'm going to the show anyway, happy to bring the (standard) ET along.

Some aftermarket kits are decent, some are utter sh1te. I had a set from Wemoto for the ET and they appeared decent in terms of finish on the float valves etc. They've been in two years (maybe three?) and are fine. A mate got a set for a not-suzuki from Eblag and they were piss poor. The threads all looked like they'd been carved in with a stanley blade. So I would say if you're getting aftermarket stuff then get them from a reliable shop/trader and you should be OK.

Give it 15 or 20 years and the same will be true of 'busas. The engines out of those are going into kit cars and grass track cars like there's no tomorrow.

Is that code for "Is the air cooled engine going spare now?"

I reckon the way Ash did it would be the cheapest route, buy a complete B12, break the bike and sell of what you don't want.

I'd agree with @nlovienstick the Bandit lump in to get you going without breaking the bank. Then you can do a full strip and overhaul as time and funds allow on the original lump. Once that's done you can leave it on the shelf to swap over at a later date.

As far as I can without getting silly, and by silly I mean spending stupid amounts. I got a price from Maxton to convert the existing forks to cartridges, @£800 including bushes and seals. A lot of money, but the price of USD's yolks etc. to go the 'conventional' modified route and you're soon near that money anyway. A similar deal with using the carbs to mount the injectors. Whip out everything bar the butterflies, machine up four sleeves and sit the injectors in through where the diaphragms were. As opposed to buying throttle bodies, then spacing them to suit and altering them and/or the boots to get them to fit the head. I just fancy the challenge really, although I'll probably feel differently about it about half way through.

Thanks, it'll be worth a look then, but the problem with the wheels looking standard is the odd sizes as well as the snowflake pattern. If I'm honest, I'm unlikely to need that extra rubber these days anyway.

I realised today that it's over four years since I stripped this cosmetically challenged example. There have been a few plans for it from a completely standard restoration to, an anything goes all out modified machine. The trouble is I want to do something as different as possible, like many others no doubt. That lead me to the latest, and now favourite idea. I want it look completely standard/original and modify it as much as I can without anything showing unless you dig into it. It sounds dull, but when you start to look at what can be done I'm liking the process of getting as much in as possible. For the engine mechanically that'll be head/valve work and a big bore. Fuelling will be to gut the carbs and use them as throttle bodies to fit the injectors into. Ignition will be small stick coils to get rid of the wasted spark set up. Then electrically/electronically it'd be full ECU control and some additional work in that for security, along with LED lighting and a better loom. Running gear is going to be limited, but cartridges in the forks, and some much improved rear shocks will make a vast difference. Frame and swing arm are going to be even more limited, but it should be possible to get a new swing arm made up that looks very similar, but is much more rigid. Wheels and tyres will have to stay standard, but I'm sure the brakes can be improved with a bit of thought. Any other thoughts/suggestions?

Before you consign the CDI to the bin, strip the multi-plug and check the pins and the pins connection to the wires loom side and CDI side. Poor connections there will give you the issues you describe. Most of the time a faulty CDI will just not operate rather than be a poor spark.

It was a fitting send off for a good bloke who'll be sorely missed.

A genuinely nice bloke and a good friend, shared some great times with him at the TT . It was a privilege Pete, ride easy mate.