Wolf

If you are in the disposition of needing to replace cam caps and your cams are worn on journals why not rather have a machine shop re-linebore journals resurface cams to fit white metal bearings or needle rollers ? At least (if my previos advise is shit ) use a plastic gauge before turning engine over . . .

If you are willing to scrap the bottom yoke grind one side to see how deep welding penetrated then cut rest of yoke of around stem as to still have a lip to grip on aluminum new yoke

Take an old screw and cut groves into threads clean with a wire brush and U have a tap . . .

It is a butcher method but a sharp small blade chisel that can cut it in half ???

Are the mounting rubbers hose over aluminum head port or rubber hose on a oval base with M6 bolts to head ? If the latter is the "O" rings between head and manifolds good and capable of temps they go through?

https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/9g8M9ZzqPpRJ Try this as refrance

Hope these help

I have disconnected and blanked off vacuum at carb and sealed diaphram (after 4th rebuild kit) leaked in a short time so Prime is on and Reserv and On is off

Made my own velamoit base gasket with nitrate "o"rings Have heard of guys using extra heavy duty tin foil for base gasket . . .

Lenght of cylinders and block height will make a difference

Self cuting inserts come in diffrent wall thickness that can take it back diwn

https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3ccf2f870021958f282b3/front-master-cylinder

Air in revers of hydraulic flow usually does it but if a new piston is available drill&tap to pull works Newer M/C are available and if you more of a purist there are lookalikes

I have twice had to resolder the wires from windings to R&R and still have a steady charge rate of 12.7-13.8v