wsn03

Anything made in Japan is usually top spec and reliable. I wonder if they are Mikuni....

My 750 F has an on/off tap. I use fuel filter to keep it all super clean

My 750F doesnt have a vac tap My Bandit does but i just use a remote tank. Im really intrigued by Wemoto

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I got some sign /writer / graphics place to do my whole bike. We took photos of the originals and traced the outline of each one to get the sizing right. No one has ever spotted they're not original. And this was in the 90s before digital cameras and easy computers. We had to write on slates in them.days with us finger nails

If you're taking the carbs off can you try loading them with fuel from a remote tank. The GPZ carbs i rebuilt took some 25 minutes to piss fuel out but they did until I made the owner buy OEM needle float valves Be worth it for piece of mind. Please post back.how you get on

Ive not tried Wemoto - im interested if this is the case. Ive had experience of most of the other well known specialists, needle float valves leaking from brand new, shocking. I once restored a set of GPZ carbs for a mate, did a careful and stunning paint job on them. Bench tested them and fuel pissed out everwhere completely destroying my paintwork! The issue is with any claims, have they been bench tested? Sticking them on a bike with a vacuum feed set up gives one the impression all is well because most of the time the feed is off. The only way to be properly sure all is well is to gravity feed fuel to the carbs and leave the feed on a few hours. The only thing holding the fuel back then is the needle float valves. Ive only ever seen Makuni oem.pass this test. Anything failing it will seep fuel into the engine. If the oil smells of fuel you know what's been causing it. Has anyone bench tested Wemoto valves this way? Would be great if they work and for as long as the oems

I always have fuel filters, but i suppose that doesnt stop all residue?!? That said OEM needle valves, inline filters and fuel stabiliser in winter and i just dont get any problems

I'd dispute this and suggest oem only. All the "specialists" fail to get needle float valves that last more than a few weeks. They totally shag your engine too. For some reason people keep giving them business

Needle flost valves - any aftermarket ones you can scrap, they all leak. Buy Mikuini or live with the leaks To test - stick carbs on bench. Half fill remote fuel tank (Demon Tweeks sell them) connected to carbs Give it 24 hrs. ... dont smoke,.observe fuel all over the bench, tank empty. Needle floats (supplied by your trustworthy aftermarket carbs specialist) are leaking. Then buy some Makuni (re-mortgage or buy from USA)

You will need needle float valves, only use Makuni, aftermarket ones always fail. Order from the US to save a fortune. Test yours by loading your carbs with fuel on a bench using a remote tank. Give it a 24 hr test. Don't smoke

Hmm. The only home i found for mine because of the remote tank issue is the dirt bike. Now having 2nd thoughts. Last thing i need is a fuel leak in the middle of nowhere on the side of a hill inaccessible to the RAC. Think mine were 10 quid so probably same as yours

I was going to fit a quick disconnect but changed my mind because no good for connecting to my remote tank i use when balancing the carbs. Also feared another link to go wrong. Your post has vindicated that decision. Scary

My coils are mounted above the carbs, and 1. in the original coil mounting near the head stock. Picture 1 shows the bracket made to mount the coil above the carb - this bracket was made of cheese, so later I made a stainless one that didn't tear under vibration.. Picture 2 shows the coil above the carb (I don''t have flatslide carbs on mine, not sure what height difference there is between them and the CVs I use) Picture 3 shows the mounting point for my above carb coil - I shared it with the point used by the right hand bracket that holds the airbox in place Picture 4 shows the coil mounted in the headstock area using 2 of the original mounting points with a bracket made up on each side.

Deliberately done to help you get them on and adjusted. R is throttle side i recall

Lovely bike. Mine is a similar story but somehow i managed to keep hold of the original bike. She was a dust heap sat in the corner of the garage for a few years before i gave her a 2nd restoration

They only go on AFTER the carbs and all the manifolds are in place. Screw to airbox first, then slide onto frame - its a tight squeeze kind of thing. You'll actually think they wont go on...keep bolts / screws loose until everything is lined up. Once on the carbs and manifolds lines up perfectly. Those inserts in the frame tend to go knacker, you can buy stainless replacements (they're called rivnuts).

Bang on mate!

I have one in headstock and one above carbs in a place that does not mess up access to balancing screws. I'll put up.pics on the weekend. I too made brackets

Those bottom 2, if they have an "R" and "L" stamped on them they will be the airbox to frame brackets...they look just like that. Need a picture? My tank is off atm

I've always been told the same: 36 front, 42 rear......... applies to my MK1 Slabbie, and MK1 1200 Bandit