Gixer1460
-
Posts
6,490 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Gixer1460
-
-
I would say RTFM ! But no one seems to bother with manuals these days - god knows why . . . . Q's like this is what they are for!
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, Arttu said:
Only if you have an ignition controller with adjustable dwell control... Not good if you just want to replace the stock coils with stick ones and keep using the stock ignition unit.
Its true - depending on the coil make / type, there are dumb and active types! Dumb COPs are just like normal coils that charge and discharge without variation. The smart active types have to be told to switch on to charge and then, when to discharge - so can vary the spark point to suit what engine wants at that moment - quite clever really but electronics and programming intensive. Stick to dumb coils (generally two wire) for easy life!
-
I thought EFE's originally came with 34's - it would explain the increase?
-
They all seem to - haven't seen 'short' or 'shorter' COP's! I've just fitted GSXR1000's and they poke out 40 - 50mm on a 1127 engine.
-
1
-
-
Useful facts presented after are not ideal! Maybe new - doesn't mean it's good!
-
Battery is goosed! Has background volts but no amp capacity for loads!
-
They aren't so sophisticated that the TPS really does anything of consequence! Some retard ignition at certain rpm's in certain gears to get through noise regs, some reduce power in lower gears - the 'anti - wheelie' syndrome, others do weird stuff no one even knows about . . . . . not at all like a true TPS that can be useful for a mapped ignition for example! Most peeps disconnect and carry on camping without issues!
-
Don't understand the question - switch to single ignition ? Loads of peeps on here have used stick coils and examples can be found with a search - I, myself asked the assorted knowledge recently . . . . .
-
Depends on how DIY capable you are as s/h Suzuki throttle bodies will need modification to fit - especially to GSX type engine inlet rubbers - Arttu here could advise.
Cost probably comparable to RS flatties once you factor in aftermarket ECU, HP pump and sensors. Then you've got mapping the ECU and likely dyno time. Some ECU's are 'self learning' but mainly aimed at auto market due to size. Unless there are future power mods then EFI doesn't necessarily make sense - but when has that ever stopped anyone !
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, tony17 said:
no pictures needed .the question is does anyone know where i can get a thicker gasket? not to analyse why
And less of the attitude! You are asking for our help, our questions are trying to establish what you have got and what will suit. I can easily tell you to get a copper gasket as they are available from 0.5mm through 5+mm but really doesn't help, does it! A) I'm not telling you the 'where' part, B) Is your set-up configured for a copper gasket and C) No one can tell what a 'thicker' gasket is, or what thickness you require! These things are not one size fits all.
And, as you've given this task to someone who doesn't seem particularly 'pro-active' (if its taken 11 months to go nowhere), and you yourself don't appear to be 'on the spanners' - just provide some info and pictures as requested and I guarantee you'll have your answer, if not, best get to the shops and ask for a 'long weight'!
-
4
-
-
+5 on rear . . . . . saves front tyre wear !
-
If its pumped, it can go anywhere above oil level - its why lots choose oil filler cap. Even -6 maybe to big! The pumps usually use 4mm bore pipe so that's your guide. Yes centre of the clutch access plate and I used -10 but I had multiple breathers, -10 cam cover, clutch cover and -8 from oil filler hole! If this is a competition bike which requires a lot of clutch servicing work, a hose in the plate maybe not the best place so anywhere else 'fixed' should work if located a 90 deg to clutch rotation to avoid flung oil?
-
1
-
-
You'll have to cut the two pairs apart down the middle and re-space them - not difficult, just fiddly. Don't forget the fuel rail will need similar cut but must be sleeved to remain fuel and fuel pressure tight !
-
I would normally say - discount anything upstream of the carbs, leak wise - as very rarely will a leak here cause issues. But if the engine responded to restricted airflow with the 'finger test' it may be air filter related - wrong one, displaced or none at all? allowing too much air - worth a check, just in case!
-
Gravity or pumped return? Isn't a -8 a bit big if a pumped return? Whatever the connection position MUST be above static oil level with engine off after a few hours or IT WILL drain backwards into the turbo! Crankcase breather can go anywhere to suit - I put one of mine in centre of cover to avoid oil being flung into the breather!
-
1
-
-
Hot & melted connectors indicate high resistance so won't help but RR's of this age are notorious failure points so . . . .!
-
wow! That's a lot of cranking compression for a turbo - not saying it won't work, just unusual!
-
Exactly same process - just more plumbing to deal with!
-
1
-
-
Bugger ! And down the hole as well - have to sneak up on that one . . . . . left hand drill bit I think?
-
I don't think the bore spacing is the same, but can't swear to it!
-
1
-
-
Can't see how crankcase pressure could pop a valve seal off - the pressure would be 'on' the seal, not under it! V seals usually fail due to age or getting mashed by the valve spring retainer. Over filled oil and parked on side stand usually / can result in smoke. If the top end is wet or 'coked' and you are fouling plugs then probably the carb tweak has gone the wrong way? Has it been dyno'd or had a wideband lambda used on it - best thing for tuning IMO!
-
Majority of Suzuki sprockets use same spline / shaft size also big Kawa air cooled / early w/c also same. Just use https://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/
-
49 minutes ago, olivier said:
Hi thx for your reply. Do you mean I need or don't need the Split collars with my stock manifold ?
" so the split pieces aren't required." I did say!
As regards the brackets, I'd say, that exhaust isn't original to that bike, hence different brackets and why 'original brackets' don't fit!
-
I believe with that exhaust, the split collars are built into the header pipes ie. the thicker collars so the split pieces aren't required. Normally the pipe is straight and the split pieces are positioned around the pipe, secured with a cable tie, inserted into the head and all restrained with the clamp. With yours just insert into port and restrain with the clamp - sooooo much easier.
EFE with single Coils form GSXR K2
in Air Cooled
Posted
Thanks for clarification - even if its the wrong thread