Gixer1460
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Posts
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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As you've probably disturbed everything, anything is possible. The manuals settings basically assume new or un-worn components but old used components will have 'worn into place' and disturbing them messes that up! The float valves may be slightly leaking causing a rich condition, incorrect needle position can certainly cause a rich . . . . or a lean condition, other outside influences - exhaust, air filter etc can mess with fresh built carbs! Every bike is individual, there are no 'ideal' set-ups only ball park tunes to get close!
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I'd try Allens first!
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23 minutes ago, Pegleg said:
Looking for recommendations for a compact FPR with boost ref and a fuel pump for the Bandit.
Tried searching the site but didn't turn anything up.
Need more info! Rail mounted or standalone FPR? What level of boost expected determines the potential pressure the pump will have to deal with - flow goes down as boost goes up so limiting potential HP or increasing lean running possibility! And a Bosch 044 is not the automatic answer!
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1 hour ago, Slabbie11 said:
The more modern approach is to use a fixed pressure “dead head” system which runs a high enough static pressure to allow for boost (many systems run at 58psi or above) & avoid vaporisation. There are also closed loop systems with pump controllers but we don’t need to go there right now.
You can calibrate (map) the fuelling to suit either scenario but switching between once complete will mean a remap.
That's a new one on me! I'm aware of dead head fuel systems, generally on NA systems and they run at a set regulated pressure (around 3 bar) But running a pump dead headed permanently at, say 5-6 bar pressure, to cover 2-3 bar boost, not only puts huge load on the pump, i'll overheat the fuel and it would likely be almost un-mappable due to pressure in rail pulsing from 5 to whatever pressure, due to injectors variable opening times. This doesn't sound like a sound prospect - all to save on a plenum air pressure tapping and a boost referenced FPR - a tried and tested solution!
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'Tain't a knob and we do - GS, GSX, GSXR !
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I think sub 9.0:1 CR is waaaay to low for use with E85 which is as close to methanol as anything available and that needs compression and rich AFR. Query - if stock Bus pistons have 'correct' ht for your combination why do 'Bus turbo pistons' not (which should be drop- in's) ? Why are they taller and so, even in a Bus motor, INCREASE the CR not lower it? I'm confused!
If it is, what it is . . . . . i'd be tempted to spacer plate only 1mm and skim pistons 0.5mm and get squish to 0.8 - 0.75mm (unlikely to over rev a blown motor & stretch rods!) and 9.5:1 CR if E85 is in constant use. Hell that CR would even work with regular 98 super unleaded if boost was moderate!
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34 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
Welcome to OSS.
The Madura is old, it's rare, it's different, but it's not really Oldskool Suzuki. Will be a good parts donor though
@Captain Chaos- you forgot 'its Hideous' . . . . . . . . and parts donor for what exactly?
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ECU
in Oil Cooled
Strictly not an ECU but ignition / timing unit. That one certainly ain't an 1100 K, L, M or M. Not sure if GSXR at all?
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59 minutes ago, Supa said:
Fellas remove or blank off, its not going to change one bit to your handling. WSBk dude may have been taken out of context as the 20gms is not reciprocating Wt.
How did you get to 'reciprocating weight'? All the discussions were referring to Sprung and unsprung weight - quite different!
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Not a very common mod a) due to the problems you've outlined but also b) the likely overheating issues due to the lack of barrel finnage! Also if oil cooling capacity is increased the overall engine oil flow could be compromised due to increased flow resistance through bigger coolers. I did 80.5mm GSXR pistons in a GSX Gorilla block on EFE bottom end and GSXR head for a drag race motor - it worked but was a one trick pony !
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I'm guessing the US market for these bikes isn't as strong or as popular compared to Europe hence no interest, and yes you will have to 'virtually give it away!' Also gonna have to factor in freight costs if selling to Europe and that won't be cheap either which will hit sale prices! So, unless the parts are very rare or exotic, its a buyers market in terms of returns!
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WOW - you are on the ball, reply after 5 months and for the benefit of the OP who only hung around for 7 days, not been back since!
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To best of my knowledge, those tubes are cast in to the bodies so you won't find a part number. Bending a new one isn't impossible but the end bends will often kink which makes them useless!
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19 minutes ago, clivegto said:
This is an interesting idea?
What is? Bolt on sprockets or using ss screws on aluminium without washers? Explain pls?
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Tape measure and straight steel bars can check everything - helps if swingarm is fitted. Chalk line on a good flat floor, centre frame over it so headstock and SA centred and square, drop plumb line from headstock bearing / shaft to line, measure from headstock to SA mounts and axle blocks, fitted forks would help show any headstock twist.
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I fitted the std. 'M' curved cooler with a R6 fan between the seat frame rails on my 1460 GSXR. Fan wired through relay & thermo switch in sump.
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20 minutes ago, Ted M said:
That’s a dot head on that motor in the picture. It’ll have a serious CR if that’s on the 1340 motor
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58 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
As I said. I have data that proves they are effective.
You aren't the majority, you (maybe) are the exception!
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Not unusual to see head coolers added if the OEM head cooling lines changed to Goodridge Braided type - everything from small 'token' sized to larger than main have been fitted but few people know what effect they have - just knowledge that additional cooling will be of a benefit plus the extra oil capacity (relatively speaking) is always a bonus. BUT coolers MUST be in airflow so fitting them inside or behind fairings will render them pointless, also your thermostat may be operating at too high a temp . . . . OEM GSXR's were never fitted with thermostats, says Suzuki thought them irrelevant?
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Capacity should be cast on a plaque on rear of the cylinder block - usually LHS.
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8 hours ago, Dukeman said:
Interesting - my image was from Robinson Foundry BUT was for an 1127 engine whilst yours was 1052 . . . . obvs deleted on the later engines hence confusions!
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57 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
I think they sit on the bottom, I don't feel like opening a head to double check. Look at the parts diagrams.
They do not feature on parts diagrams ! ! ! Hense my earlier reply.
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Probably in the Haynes manual.
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All good - making a pair of matching gears wasn't clear!
Carbomoto Bandit
in Oil Cooled
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Care to explain that? Virtually same package except lighter clutch in a Bandit!