Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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What FPR is it? Malpassi ? i'm guessing with a cut down spring to get the low pressure required?
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That's pretty much where most of them end up, from what i've seen!
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Figure out how low the turbo oil discharge is and if using a 'windscreen washer' type, electric vane pump, then the pump needs its inlet near or below that level due to poor suction + oil will be aerated so even worse for suction. If you are using a mechanical 'oil pump' scavange then they are usually driven off the crankshaft so will be higher up as their suction performance is much better!
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2 hours ago, Duckndive said:
sounds like a knackered speedo
As both bikes have the drive on same side "left" of wheel
Not sure how? Cable drive rotates one way needle & counter goes up and increases, turn the other way and needle hits stop but figures shouldn't decrease due to one way drive? - all very weird!
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4 minutes ago, Maggotbreath said:
You've connected your BOV to the carb tops? Shouldn't it be connected to the manifold side of the butterfly's?
It's a BOV, not a waste gate and functions with vacuum not boost. Vacuum only available engine side of butterflies.
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Oh well, wrong about the tool (must have been some other engine LOL) but i'm guessing the Suzuki manual assumes you have a full shim kit with every size available beside you, for a one out / one in procedure. Nice if you have - but if you haven't, you are sort of back to the cam out method!
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I think there is a 'proper' tool that has a forked end that bears on the retainer to compress the spring to allow the shim to be plucked out with a magnet. In the absence of that, i've measured all the gaps, noted down same, Remove the cams, take out and measure shims, work out the +/- required to correct, if lucky swap shims around, and then find correct ones missing and rebuilt the top end!
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Company in UK called 'Trigger Wheels.com' does a 50mm 36-1 wheel that will fit a oil cooled engine - they have tested it to 20,000 rpm but don't say with what pick-up - even so, it gives some hope, they are also a good source of all things EFI related. Certainly a 24 tooth wheel in that size is a lot easier to machine on a DIY sized milling machine
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Yes the OP is 'merican and the T is a sort of 'cruiser' type - we had the LT - little peanut type tank and rareish over here!
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Arttu seems to like 24 - 2 wheels as I believe the sensor can keep up with 36-1 @ higher RPMS! You first describe normal flow and return system then say you'll be using returnless - make yer mind up
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Tin Tops by a long stretch!
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Holy thread reserection and for a different 'new' bike ! ! ! Don't know exactly but Suzuki have used white and yellow for feeds to dip and main or main and dip respectively for years. Just buy a manual - Clymer are good for coloured wire diagrams - and they are useful for other things also!
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Blandit or GSXR ?
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What you are seeking - as others have said - is consistancy! Unfortunately a road or an average RWYB surface (unless its SP) will be variable to the extent no consistancy is possible. In that case, a two step may not be the best solution. Some clutch tuning may help but if its a ride to and from, road bike you will be limited in what is possible whilst getting used to controlling and riding through enevitable wheelies! Softening compression and increasing rebound on rear shock will help as will strapping the front forks and as Clive says 15psi is a good starting rear tyre pressure (just don't forget to pump it up again if riding home - yes we've all done it!)
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Re : tuning them, not a clue but i've a set of 41's to do in the future. But the airfilters - thats easy . . . . . use the oval foam pods from RamAir or similar. They stretch over the stacks easily and will be retained by them. A light coat of filter oil will improve them markedly!
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You can if you accept max of 0.5bar boost with no headroom to increase + the pistons will be a weak point even with restricted boost
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If u are spinning the wheel, the clutch and chassis needs work.
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This assumes there is mechanical aptitude / compitance available as a modified engine and turbo builds ain't a feature in Haynes manuals LOL.
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If you can't or won't do the majority of the grunt work yourself . . . . . . there is NO budget option, no ifs or buts, it will cost!
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Multi purpose bikes taken racing will always be compromised in one area or another! Generally with straightline racing, the launch is essential for ET and is a combination of clutch and chassis (the bit often forgotten). You need consistancy of how the clutch reacts, how you engage it, at what rpm and what the chassis does when engaged. Unless you go to expense of multi stage or slider clutches paired with auto boxes and sophisticated launch & ignition controls that can hold rpm to set point within 50rpm whilst WOT just on bite point, everything else is viariable and thus less consistant.
Feathering / feeding in a clutch is a slow way and kills 60ft and short track times - as a basic set-up, you can tune the clutch stack height in combination with the clutch springs and lock-up weights. This will allow you to dial in a rpm and 'throw the lever' - no feathering whatsoever, you let the clutch slip itself into full lock up. Its a huge subject and not something that can be solved via the net - only testing, testing, testing works LOL! Obviously this type of launch could result in wheelies - without chassis mods! A chassis that absorbs the hit in a controlled way and then extends down track is essential . . . . . . or fit bars and smash the launch
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While its 'nice to know' type information, unless you are using it for a safety engine shutdown on loss of pressure, its a bit of overkill - these engines very rarely suffer from low oil pressure and when they do, the bottom end is usually scrap anyway.
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You sir are then excused your error in good taste
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
better not mention my K5 1400 then
oops I just did Is it Turbo'd or 1600 big bore? . . . . . . . then yes, best not mention it!
BOV opening late, out of ideas
in Forced Induction
Posted
I'd say that BOV's aimed at the car / auto market are generally sprung too heavy as cars pull waaaaay more vacuum than a bike ever will - start soft and prepare to go softer, BOV should just about flutter at idle.