Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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3 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
the GN400 is a single cilinder bike, like a GN250 but bigger. The GS400/450 is a twin.
Apologies for the confusion / misdiagnosis!
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13 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
And yes black/yellow is the correct wire according to my factory Suzuki manual. Later models have a black/red wire from the CDI for tacho signal.
Thank you for the clarification!
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Alphasports site (good resource for part #'s although US) don't list a GS 400 but they do list a GN 400 through those years. The US often had similar models but renamed ie. the GS1150 for them was our GSX 1100 EFE! It could be worth a look? https://alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
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What bike, what ecu / cdi fitted? If std Suzuki, there is normally a dedicated tach output which is usually black/red or similar. Thinking outside the box - black/yellow is coil signal colour and tacho may actually be reading half speed so the fluttering could be the red line limiter - clutching at straws ! ! !
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The GS ones could have the small nose taper like the early GSX - if so, then no swopsie. Could be other differences but never compared side by side.
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11 hours ago, fastgs287 said:
If all you got was a sticking float valve and crumbly gaskets it sounds like you got off lightly
- No broken/ bent needles? green, white or brown jelly? jets so corroded you can't read the numbers? float bowl corroded through?
deep corrosion craters in the carb body? dented floats? differents jets/ needles in each carb? Jets blocked with hylomar? Jets drilled on the piss?
holes blocked with self tapping screws? Broken drill bits left in the jets? Bent nail used as float pin? holes repaired with chemical metal?
Is that all ? - you were lucky! (in best Monty Python Yorkshireman accent)
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
L/M/N models don't have headlight relays, earlier Slingshots do.
Ah Ha - that's why I posted a diagram with them - i'm smart like that LOL!
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If you like the 'comfy' riding position of a Blandit be prepared for potential back and wrist pain as it's a lot more head down, arse up - also a lot faster LOL!
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Here's a loom diagram with twin lights and relays included.
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There is a search function - please use it or at least read through the whole of the Forced Induction part of the site - pretty much every question asked has been answered MULTIPLE times! Principles are the same whatever motor it is getting bolted to - just details change!
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On 9/26/2019 at 11:49 AM, Bobby said:
So in the process of adding a turbo to my 1052 gsxr, wanting to lubricate the turbo with its own oil pump, now I'm sure I've seen somewhere that there is a mechanical oil pump that is intergraded with an ignition cover somewhere? does anybody know who makes them?
The turbo is usually / always fed via engine oil pump - GSXR's have plenty of oil pressure to spare. Waste oil from the turbo is sucked out either by an electric scavenge pump as above or via a mechanical pump such as the Emtes type (what I use). The two have pro's and con's - the former can drain the turbo after engine is shut off but is an electrical load (which can be a bit much on some electrical systems - unlikely but possible) and a failed pump will result in LOADS of blue smoke. The emtes type are always on/pumping when engine is running but aren't a bolt on solution requiring some engineering / welding to fit and ideally should be combined with a sump below the turbo to capture any drainback.
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4 hours ago, baldrick said:
head bearings- made in India- you know, that country well known for engineering brilliance.
Well they do have a Space programme and do build the hardware themselves unlike us who borrow someone else's rockets LOL!
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6 hours ago, Muddy said:
Righto, you've got me thinking now - bore and resleeve the stock block or bore a GSX1150 block (if I can find one - they seem to be rare in Aus)?
How about using GSXR sleeves in your 1100 block - they are 78mm std and so will be the biggest in that block = 1260cc and more likely to be plentiful in Aus. ? - looks like you'll be boring something but aluminium is easier than steel LOL!
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Oh for god's sake ! If the engine / carbs are healthy, it will run and idle / rev out without any cable connected - IGNORE the ancillaries - focus on the main things! Now you present another (fairly critical) issue fuel tap / fuel supply! I assume these carbs have a choke - are you using it? Again - get a manual ! ! ! ! ! ! !
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10 hours ago, wraith said:
You forgot the 750 x2 and the 1000
Doh ! And I had a 1000 ! Probably overlooked as mine was 1327 LOL!
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6 hours ago, Ronny said:
Do you mean a 600 or 750 Katana?
Or 50, 250, 400, 650 or 1100? LOL! I blame the Japanese!
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A good switch should show continuity between the tit on the top and the brass plate inside the case when removed from engine whether plunger is pushed or not. They are not sophisticated devices - no oil flow, brass disc touches engine case completes ground circuit, light illuminates - with oil flow pushing disc off cases, circuit broken, light goes out! They can get mucky so a soak in cleaner may help but there is no much else to go wrong!
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7 hours ago, Poldark said:
"do you have a shed?"
"i have a shed in the back but im using my garage for lighting."
Even though we all supposedly speak English, there are translation issues. "shed" in UK = "garage" in US. Same with "garden" and "yard".
Now back to the discussion....
Beg to differ
In the UK a shed is a shed and a garage is a garage - they are not interchangeable. For most people - you wouldn't park a car in a shed as they are less than 100 sq ft! and will just about take a bike with some space around it. 
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12 hours ago, Askamaskinservice said:
Be careful using a Prostock crank as they are usually / used to be fitted with a 750 gear to alter the clutch / primary gear ratio - good for racing out of the hole but not so much for 'normal' use. I thought GS1150 crank stroke dim was 66 odd mm as stock so those aren't stroked ? and also VERY cheap so are possibly s/hand and a s/hand PS crank will have turned 13-14k rpm and are swopped out for good reason. Could still have good life turning lower rpm's but bearings may be suspect long term!
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All i'll say is stop fucking around with ancillaries and address the problem - dirty carbs ! ! !
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23 hours ago, Askamaskinservice said:
Stroker?
Thats a shit load of work with a pressed up crank not to say expense!
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
Bimota NEVER built a frame to accomodate an oilcooled GSXR motor. 'Twas my mistake and I apologise
I hope the person who decided on that had it explained to them by someone in authority that they let themselves down, and they let Bimota down too. And then went away to think about what they had (not) done
But fully agree with the above sentiment LOL!
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3 hours ago, Blubber said:
Nah...Not specificly you.
Ian just has a loud mind
I just hate everyone i've never met then hate them some more when I do - nothing personal!
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10 hours ago, v-twinwalker said:
if its like my bike (gs650) you have a tachometer cable that goes from ur tachometer to the engine, that could be broke theyre about $12 if its the same type
They had moved on from tractor technology by then, tacho's were electronic.
Dead rev counter
in Air Cooled
Posted
Probably could - likely to cost more than buying another replacement! I did this with some gauge plastics - easier to buy whole cluster just for the clear plastic!