Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Is this site turning into "Suzuki Ownership for Dummies" ?
If you don't know what you are doing - buy a Haynes or Clymer manual and read it - then read it again, then tackle a job and then if you get stuck come and ask a question!
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17 hours ago, manden said:
Fzr1000 fits and is 6.5mm id
That's barely a controlled leak! LOL! My daily 55hp 'onda has an 8mm tap!
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On 9/19/2019 at 7:55 AM, GSXR4814 said:
Any idea if they could be modified to fit? I only ask as the 750 one on has been nicely ported etc.
Sort of related - I built a GSXR head onto GSX barrels and gasket around the chain tunnel was marginal so we welded in some 6mm ali before it got decked to provide the extra real estate for copper gasket. Oh and due to the stroke difference we had to add two extra links to the cam chain - normal roller not Hyvo though!
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Just to stir the pot a bit for the DJ haters
DJ parts have a lifetime warranty - if they are worn, send them back for free replacement - Why won't Suzuki san do the same thing...........got a worn out GSXR here?
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14 hours ago, manden said:
Must be on the downpipe. Take it atleast 10cm from the turbo. It will live longer.
That is a confusing statement - a turbo doesn't generally have what are called 'downpipes' just a manifold / collector and this is NOT the place to mount a WB sensor. Anywhere downstream of the turbo outlet is ok as a lot of the heat / pressure is dissipated, just try to keep away from the outer end of the dump pipe - if you have a full exhaust you are in clover as the issue doesn't arise. Orientation is important also ie. between 9 and 3 o'clock is ideal.
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Usually these guys will be able to help - http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/
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Of course it's possible, most of the turbo builds on here are carb'd installs - probably less than 25% use EFI as well. Check the site - most things have been discussed.
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That's mental - they sell a battery they know to be shite, only give a 90 day warranty because they are shite and end up having to replace them because they don't last longer than 90 days - that makes a lot of financial sense on there part! Surely a £10 / $10 more expensive battery that doesn't fail would make money rather than lose it ?
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On 9/18/2019 at 4:10 AM, Gammaboy said:
Works fine on Bimota SB6s.
I suspect Bimota put a bit more design / engineering into their builds than 'a talented guy in his shed' (that is a 'tongue in the cheek' remark for all you literals!)
The SB6 came with a slabby engine - will it take a slinger? If it does, then the head fixing must be flexible which would then imply its not a 'structural' fixing. And this would leave the whole engine supported via the two rear mounts - that I really wouldn't like.
This is a personal opinion and don't care if others do it this or that way - for all I know, there could be shed load of plate between the frame rails as bracing negating a load bearing engine that was designed to be in a cradle frame!
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Those poly-vee belts do transfer quite a bit of power - pretty much universally used on modern cars with high load alternators, power steering pumps and air-con compressors, so why make extra work for yourself?
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Looks / sounds about right to me, although one change i'd make is to lose the 'main fuse' between battery and alternator. If it pops, you wouldn't know it until the battery dies and running an alternator without a battery connected really doesn't do them any good. If you want a 'single main fuse' stick it in the line between ign. switch and the fusebox / M Unit so it kill everything - as it should.
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Good move retaining the airbox - solves a lot of jet faffing around when fitted to alternative motors. Won't solve ALL the problems but does help CV carbs work as they should.
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In the 'Rock, Paper, Scissors' of life - scissors always cuts purse strings of Projects - at least you've got something else to keep you occupied!
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Best I can manage - shouldn't be hugely different!
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Interesting - I thought 30mm was about as big as you could go without recentering / spreading the guides or you run out of seat by the time they are recut?
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12 hours ago, spiderhaed said:
Looking for more info on what engine was in the frame when the bike was featured in that mag
With a hump on the starter cover I suspect a GSXR11 (but which one ?) or Blandit.
Re : The Head / frame mounts - not sure I like them due to using a non stressed member engine in a stressed member situation ie. it's not designed to resist those loads ............ it probably will for the low mileage the bike is likely to travel - doesn't make it right though + you are buggered trying to fit anything else in there - 750 (nah) 1052 or 1127 (different ht.) stroke'd motor (no chance!) - all subject to how the head fixings work - solid fix or rubber grommets LOL!
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34 minutes ago, vizman said:
Form follows function in ever pleasing circles......by not adhering to this is where most ‘fighter’ builds started to go wrong.
Very deep for a Monday morning LOL!
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36mm's will be more than big enough for intended use (will retain enough bottom end and breathe well enough to support 150hp)
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Possibly due to the lack of use the piston rings have 'gummed up' / stuck in their grooves? If you want to sacrifice a sump full of oil, you could try degumming them by taking all plugs out, set crank so all pistons are at same ht. ie 90 deg between 1-4 and 2-3 TDC and fill cylinders full of petrol / gas and leave for 24hrs. The fluid will leak through and around the rings and into the sump which MUST be drained and refilled inc. filter with fresh oil. If any petrol remains in the cylinders, disconnect the coils so no sparks and spin engine over on starter to eject through plug holes - a rag over will cut down on fuel everywhere. Then new plugs back in and start to see if any different. And yes the compressions are low - should be over 120psi even with a cold engine and they shouldn't vary by no more than ideally 10% - yours are 33% ! ! !
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Summat strange going on as should be third iteration of the 750 family - 1st GS750, 2nd GSX 3rd GS ES? (or was the ES just a remodelled GSX?) Bit of a Frankenstein whatever! As for buying parts - good luck as the parts kid will give you a 'blank thousand yard stare' with that concoction LOL!
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What are they - 30mm? It's not what you see there that makes the difference. A big hole is just that a big hole! Unshrouding, port shape and back of valve is where the flow is at - it's the guys that know how to combine them you need to find.
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Simple physics - the intercooler and its surrounding ambient air should be a cool as possible to achieve the highest transfer of heat whilst also providing the path of least resistance through the cooler for the boosted air and the cooling air. The 2nd item is the tricky bit as the air needs to move slow enough to transfer / capture heat which can be done by restriction or large size. Size on a bike is critical and restriction is just inefficient. Putting an IC in the tail / under the seat violates the first premise above as it will be smaller, sitting in a hot (heat from engine) and low pressure air zone (lack of airflow) and it will also be remote from the turbo requiring longer pipe runs ie. large pipe / intake volume that needs to be filled and compressed till effect is felt - maybe milli secs but it does occur. Unless you are running a boost pressure of at least 1bar / 15psi the intake temps are mostly not sufficient to warrant an IC as the delta between ambient and boost air temp will be relatively low so that a degree or 2 off the timing will compensate. If you are chasing numbers then yes an IC will help but it need to be designed as a package and not an 'add-on' fitted where you have space!
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4 hours ago, v-twinwalker said:
wait so wat fukn fuse do i get they all sound like they suck
If you can't work that one out - sell your tools and take the bike to a mechanic who does - not being funny but this seems to be way above your pay grade!
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For future reference - continued cranking will not pop a fuse as the starter isn't fused. Fuses generally only fail due to 1. excessive current draw ie. there is a short circuit or 2. vibration and age. The glass tube fuses are least reliable due to construction, next are ceramic types with exposed fuse metal link - these suffer from corrosion and poor contact in fusebox. Last type are modern blade types - very reliable and easy to see failure but can be prone to bad contacts in holders. Worth removing any fuse at least once a year to check. clean and apply a bit of Vaseline to contact points.
Dyna 2000
in Oil Cooled
Posted
As 4x Dyna 2000 user with no problems, I hate to concur with Badger but the Ignitech does seem feature rich for lower cost - I guess it's the march of technology ....... the Dyna is getting on for 20+ years old now!