Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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13 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
Stock pins are 18mm, I ordered pistons from JE, but they fucked up pretty bad.. The pistons are too big for the piston clearence they set for their own product.
Wiseco?
I don't know your particular situation but its a bit unfair to blame the piston supplier when its generally agreed that the barrels are bored / honed to size of the pistons not expect the pistons to just 'fit' your holes unless its OEM.
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3 hours ago, gs7_11 said:
Not true.
Vapour blasting will not do any harm and removes no metal.
Removing the media is easy and it's water-borne, so comes out easily with a water flush and a blow through.
Lots of firms out there offering vapour blasting on carbs.
Unfortunately true - check out vapour blasting definition . . . . . it's using abrasive media in a fluid as opposed to air with traditional blasting. Soda is used with air and as it is water soluble it can't be used in a vapour process! You can use lighter / softer medium with vapour that can clean softer metals, even painted fabrics, but it is still abrasive or it wouldn't clean and IT needs cleaning out, hence the advantages of ultrasonic fizzy water. Any abrasive doesn't distinguish between dirty metal or clean metal and if hard enough it won't just remove dirt!
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1 hour ago, CockneyRick said:
Also anyone worth their salt would know that vapour blasting works but leaves lots of superfine sand/grit hidden everywhere inside!
Soda blast uses Soda (shocker!) that disolves in water & is a much better option.
Agreed - but seriously, use of ANY abrasive media inside a carb is mad! Abrasives make small holes bigger so best avoided - non destructive ultrasonic's is the safest way IMO!
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43 minutes ago, CockneyRick said:
Fuck me, my head hurts!
That'll be alcohol LOL!
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19 hours ago, Jaydee said:
You'd want to make sure you don't exceed the minimum needed for squish doing that!
Yeah - not a particularly great idea!
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On 11/9/2019 at 11:38 AM, baldrick said:
he's not up to soldering yet, so somewhere he doesn't have to chop the wires out preferably.
Sort of limits your options then to wherever the wires will reach - Its a lot easier if you extend the wires - not particularly the big battery ones just the smaller gauge ones! Mine always live close to that battery wherever that happens to be!
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Re the Mixture screws - having the caps already removed is a bad sign ie. someone before you has likely been tampering and so whatever is there now may or may not be the stock settings ! ! ! To check the setting - look at where the screw head is now and then slowly and gently screw it in till it bottoms out - DON'T FORCE IT ! whilst counting the rotations. Most stock screws are usually between 1 and 2.5 turns from closed and will vary in 1/8 turn increments - i'd start at 1.5 turns ?
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I know about the capping but its put there for a reason - to stop unknowledgeable, tampering fingers from fucking up the settings! If its stock, then it don't need touching!
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Took me three times as long to download than to find the info............. you can't adjust it - its fixed to stop tampering!
PS you can't get better than a genuine manufacturer workshop manual!
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For a NA engine those numbers around idle / mid range are waaaay to rich, almost potentially bore wash rich! Yes address the MJ but that is an area the gets used the least and it the carbs are off anyway you might as well jet and needle down the bottom end at the same time! Also for consistency, tuning on the road needs the engine under load so you need a looooong uphill stretch - a long flat just flatlines the load once you hit a particular rpm! Not knocking the enthusiasm but this could all be done in an hour on a dyno?
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Be wary with a run in 5th ! All dynojet dyno's have a speed limit of 200mph wheel speed hence why most use 4th - don't know about others but a half ton roller @ 10k rpm would pretty much go through anything if it got loose LOL!
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Is this occurring on the dyno? It's a fairly abnormal operating condition ie. high load (tall gear) applied at a low rpm. If the dyno run was done 'all gear' you'd probably find it doesn't occur or to a lesser degree as the wheel speed is higher at lower load (gear) so the lock up tend to engage and apply pressure - just a theory?
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4 hours ago, v-twinwalker said:
yes i still havent got a manual and yea it took me like 4 different posts before i opened the carbs and saw they needed cleaning, ur not wrong when you say what to do just dont deliver it in the nicest way. ill stop doing dumb things and stick to just fixing it.
If I don't deliver it in 'the nicest way' it's because you frustrate the hell out of me! A lot of us learnt this the hard way, before the internet and instant response answers either from fathers, brothers, relatives or one step at a time with a few tools and a manual for guidance!
Stop thinking about shit you don't understand, stop buying crap you don't know how it works and spend the best $25-30 you'll ever spend and just buy a f**kin manual that will pretty much answer all your questions!
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12 hours ago, Duckndive said:
but do have to service every 3rd run up the strip....”plates dried out”...
High maintenance Drama Queen LOL! I used to take dry plates out and put clean dry plates back into Kev's ProMod slider for consistency - no oil ever on those fibres, just brake cleaner LOL!
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3 hours ago, Rustynail said:
To keep things as simple as possible just put carbs and air filter back to standard and get the thing running.
He won't listen !
And he doesn't know what std. is as he hasn't bought a manual yet!
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10 hours ago, ivorbiggin said:
If so what determines the stroke? Is it length of piston, the lever, or something ive not thought of?
You've two ratio's to deal with. 1st is master cyl bore area vs. Caliper piston bore area - this influences the pressure exerted on the pistons and lever travel will be a function to achieve that. 2nd is lever pivot ratio ie. how far the Master cyl. piston is moved relative to lever movement. Both will have an influence on lever movement and feel. With a multi adjustable lever the brake lever can develope the same line pressure but be light pull or hard pull, just be varying the pivot point / mechanical advantage in the perch!
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Deffo fixed from below!
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You need to work out total piston area of single piston against the double pistons. if comparable then the change from 14mm to 5/8" (15mm roughly) will have a slightly longer pull but pressure will be slightly higher. If the piston area is smaller (single to double) then the pull distance should be similar and opposite if greater. Only you'll know if the feel will be acceptable to you!
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Not from 'Katana' model but fairly sure will be same unless they are engraved ? - still available . . . . . part # 11174-34201 in the USA at least @ about $30 each!
Pssst. they aren't valve inspection covers - they are just covers!
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12 minutes ago, Arttu said:
On my turbo GSX, about 300hp, I have been using pretty light weights. Usually just a bolt and nut on each arm combined with stock clutch springs. This has been working fine for years, on the road and for dyno sessions. But just recently I started to get some slipping every now and then. As quick fix I tried adding another nut on each arm but this helped just little. So apparently I have something else wrong with the clutch now...
Based on my experince clutches on turbo engines are a bit like black magic. If everything is done right and in good condition it can hold pretty serious power without any too dramatic tricks. But even smallest details can screw up everything and then it will slip or drag or whatever no matter what you do, until you find the actual problem.
I concur with Arttu's experience - my big hp turbo uses nothing more than 4x 12mm SS cap heads and SS nylocs - total. I know the pressure plate hub is fairly good condition ie. barely marked, its low miles but the engine has never not had a turbo fitted. Std.Suzuki plates and cheap as chips mineral oil changed regular seems to work. The old Kawazuki didn't run any weights on the arms at all - guess I was lucky?
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16 minutes ago, Blubber said:
especially now that you've mentioned nr 4 has always been colder.
wouldn't an inlet leak make the burn hotter due to lean / excess air unless it's so leaky as to not run properly which should be more obvious ?
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8 hours ago, v-twinwalker said:
and why aren't there gaskets in between ur boots an engine? i feel like the first question will answer the second but still im curious.
There are - look again !
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1 hour ago, ELLESS said:
Very intr. info, I will fix two 1/2" holes in the covers for the starter and alt.
May not be of much benefit there due to lack of air movement! Better places are clutch chest / cover and cam cover / chain tunnel. Any blow-by (and those pistons look plenty prone) needs venting - bigger bore the better.
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17 minutes ago, rdubandit said:
So, related to this thread, it appears there may a benefit to not aiming for maximum bore, but perhaps increasing the stroke a bit? The downside is paying for stroking the crank (and then probably choosing to have a little mass removed and knife-edging done as well).
Lots of fun variables!
The real problem with stroking a bike engine is unlike auto engines where conrod alternatives are viable option to allow just resize the BE & regrinding the BE offset, with bikes the variations are small and often don't compliment the small ends so you have to either find a shop capable and competent to either use stick, TIG welding or spray metal build up, remachine an offset pin and then grind back to stock journal size - quite expensive or pony up for a new billet crank - very expensive. I'd guess the former to be at least the cost of a bore and piston job, possibly 50% more whilst the latter (in my case) was 3x the cost of bore and pistons (which was done bigger as well LOL!)
Psssst - turbo's give TORQUE and lots of power - makes a really good street bike LOL!
GS1000 chain conversion
in Air Cooled
Posted
As a supplier they have to be conservative in their recommendations - plenty on here use 520 chain on 130+hp bikes and I have a 530 chain with 370hp - I just have to change it a bit more frequently LOL!