Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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23 minutes ago, 370steve said:
wanting a billet block, so might get thicker liners if it dont mean any/too much crank case work!!
Then there is the possibility of breaking into the oil gallery in the cases - bores bigger than 81mm with corresponding bigger liners tend to use external oil lines and go dry block.
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Does no one EVER try to use the search function here? It's there for this very reason!
Rant over!
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2 hours ago, Arttu said:
Downside is that you can't do any engine braking on the auto gears since it would force the gear out while the shift fork is trying to hold it in.
You actually can't back off until you are in top gear - if you do, you risk wrecking shift forks and shift shafts. This is a cases split operation to replace but auto users adapt and machine the cases to allow access and replacement via the sump and clutch cavity - multi handed job but better than engine out / split / rebuild and re-install with an hour between rounds!
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There is no 'sensor' inside the switch unit - its just part of the clamp to give mechanical strength. Any Orange colour wire is a 'key on' live - under the tank the obvious one is Orange / white which would feed the coils. Can't imagine what would be in the headlight cowling - alarm horn maybe?....... if an alarm is fitted then you could be in a world of pain as they interfere with all sorts of circuits!
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18T certainly isn't std / normal on a Bandit nor 17 or 16! Surprised a stockish? GSX will 'pull well' that tall - geared for 180mph!
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'M' & 'N' models had the nasty 40mm CV's - 'K' & 'L' were 36mm and were very tunable!
I think the GSX's were fitted with 34mm CV's and so unless the engine internals have been altered to increase airflow into the head, the fitting of bigger carbs will likely result in lower gas speed / higher depression and less draw on the jets. I'd try the same jets as the 34mm carbs first off or 10% bigger for a start?
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Signal from CDI / Spark box to tacho - wire colour is Black / Red or Red / Black - ( can't remember exactly)
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11 hours ago, vizman said:
They look like Wiseco, no good for turbo.
Depends how you build it! I used 1186 12:1 Wisecos in my first turbo - barrel spacer knocked the CR down. There is also a fair amount of crown thickness that could come off with would reduce the spacer thickness and achieve a better squish!
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5 hours ago, Zweihammer said:
Both heads look like dot heads, correct? Any benefits to using one on a turbo application? Don’t they up the CR, typically?
They do and on big bored engines the CR could be through the roof but both of those look like they have barrel spacers? Optimal CR for big engine & big nitrous use is about 11:1 if you can control the timing with a degree of accuracy
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He was a Cloggie so Dutch Antilles was home ish - just opposite side of the world from the Philippines LOL!
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Jammy git - only reason to put those type of barrels on is BIG bore pistons - anything from 83 - 86mm dia. Seeing as a BIG piston will cost nearly $100 you stole those!
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1 hour ago, Duckndive said:
Yes but the salt is not about being normal..
Its all about being different .
Seems all a waste of everyone's time then - getting in the way of people that are REALLY there to go fast! And claiming a record - Seriously!
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I know its salt, but couldn't a std ET manage that sort of average? Serious Question!
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25 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
Aren’t 650 blandits water cooled
I was only answering the question not saying it would work LOL!
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Where the bang happens determines the most suitable unit ie. the 750!
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2 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
and how did it perform?
Just like a stocker i'd guess - looking at the gearing! It's got twice the engines, stock horsepower but twice the torque! Having 90 deg bends on the exhaust outlets - class! It's about the jenkyest redneck combination I could imagine!
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Can't imagine anyone would make a specific relay for just lights - they usually are multipurpose. So if it fits, use it. Failing that just cut the plug off, re terminate the wires and use a std 4 pin / 5 pin 30A relay which are just a couple of quid.
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How are you getting a 14cc chamber? From memory a GSXR 1100 chamber is about 21 or 26cc. Thats a lot of metal to deck off with potential for valves to smack the shit out of the pistons? Thick gasket as well!
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Can't actually be calculated as piston will be out of the block by a mm or 1.5mm if using a 1mm thick gasket! So subject to what thickness block spacer you use, any chamber volume and thus CR can be obtained!
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
1990 GSX-R is L, not M. Tappets.
Always make that mistake - mine is an 'M' and is on an 'H' 1990 plate!
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Bandit 6 = tappet head? and 1100M shim head, so its a bit more work than just sprockets as the cam shafts are completely different. Lot of work for no appreciable gain IMO!
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Never seen stock figures published I suppose most rely on the stamped timing marks - these work well enough. As regard actual degrees with std. cams & adjustable wheels - 110 degs on both works for me in most cases.
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6 hours ago, dac said:
Way back it used to be a performance improvement by yoshimura to inline bore the cam journals and fit soft metal shell bearings like you have in a big end or main bearing .
I believe the shells were from a Kwak ? Its hard enough to find someone to line bore cam caps, even harder to find someone to overbore them, modify the caps and bearings and fit them - not saying impossible just V. spendy!
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Not surprised - you've used one piston, in an un-restrained block and heated it 'uniformly'. Done this way the cylinders can move around and all of the piston is heated whereas when operating, its primary heat source is only through the crown so the skirt should be somewhat less and maintain its clearances. I'm guessing it's why IC engines are only 30 - 40% efficient - too much mechanical drag!
cluster wont turn on bike wont start
in Air Cooled
Posted
Er yeah - thats why its called the 'Main fuse'! Problem is why didn't you check that first and why did it pop in the first place?