Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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9 hours ago, Johnnie said:
Are you replacing the con rods as well?
Really not worth it until you are seeing over 250hp - makes more sense spending the money on a proper full engine balance job IMO!
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Not saying don't do it, but +30cc's makes two tenths of fuck all difference compared to a 1216 kit but the bores will be more flexible and with a 1216 kit you do have the option of another overbore if it all goes tits up?
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5 hours ago, clivegto said:
Ash what do you use in your fizz tank, it looks proper fizzy.
Eh? I see no fizzy ?
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22 minutes ago, Naim said:
I have a 40mm gsxr1100 mikuni carb as you can see in the topic :-)
But for us - are they the 36mm bore (40mm OD) GSXR1100 from J - L models or 40mm bore from M/N models - as there seems to be confusion what is measured for description!
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We still haven't established what carbs you have - early GSXR's had 34mm, most had 36mm inc Blandits, some 750's had 38mm and the latter 1100's had 40mm - all bore sizes. That advert is confusing as a single rubber seems to fit multiple size carbs! Also its not just the diameter that is an issue, the mounting angles should be correct for an easy fit! Yes OEM are expensive but they are designed to fit correctly!
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2 hours ago, Askamaskinservice said:
38mm carburettors are measured inside, the outside is bigger........
ALL carbs are measured internal bore size!
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17 hours ago, KennyKak said:
What's the difference performances wise between the 2 ECU's if any?
Potentially different advance curves and rev limits - but unlikely to be massively different!
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The only ones that will natively fit 40mm CV carbs are from GSXR 1100 M or N (1991 and 1992) The largest 750 rubbers were 38mm which sometimes can be stretched but it's painful to do!
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The B8EA's are not suppressed so likely to cause crackles on nearby transistor radio's
or other types of receiving equipment inc mobiles possibly . . . . . and because of this Suzuki changed to BR8EA's but as you've found out both will work ie. spark!
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1 hour ago, fredbcj said:
I know, all I could get on a Sunday as this motorcycle is my only transport
Understood that - it's just you described them as Viton - when they aren't!
Others could read this and assume they were getting Viton (for a particular purpose) only for these Nitrile ones to fail / leak with serious consequences!
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And they are a barsteward to get right
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Why not just pull carb vac hose off, add another hose and suck on it ! Once carbs full, refit original and ride?
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Nitrile O rings are NOT Viton O rings - totally different materials with the latter usually more expensive ( like £3.50 odd for a couple of 1mm x 3mm bore types !)
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Pretty good diagnosis i'd say! I can't think of other alternatives?
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Read it again - there are far more experienced modders on here with lots of threads regarding carb modification / air filter issues and with your own self proclaimed limited experience, my statement is justified - prove me wrong! When you do your modification - nothing wrong with it BTW - but what will you do when it won't rev over 5000 rpm?
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If you can't make it run successfully as stock - what chance have you got modifying it? Honestly Suzuki San knows a lot more about airflow and carburetion than the majority of people on here - everything is done for a reason and modifications will have consequences!
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On 10/11/2019 at 1:23 PM, Hollomanje said:
As you cann see the prolem that I am having now is placing the middle bracing does not fit easily into the propose pposition ....... as ideas as to the best way to set it
should I trim down one corner / side and lever it into place...... anyoyher ideas
Query - Have you checked chain run with that box section - original was tube with gap under! Looks like it conflicts to me?
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3 hours ago, HUM said:
Hi
B ut Ur max speed on the roads is 112 KM motorway ? 96 KM normal roads ? it is max second gear from 5 it does not matter 100 HP or 124 HP
LOL
Same like discussions in US " wooow I have 180 HP in my bike...." " U ever driven full speed ? " "No "
Jokes must be
HUM
Talking like that won't make friends round here abouts! We choose to do it because we can, whether its practical or sensible is immaterial !
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8 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
Your description above suggests you have, a, one function or the other, not the ability to use both at the same time.
As its been some years since looking at this, I had to download the Curvemaker software, play with it and it doesn't do what I thought it did. You can create your own advance curve but DYNA only allow you a degree of retard per mapped point which isn't ideal and switching from one 'advance' curve to 'retard' curve is via manual switch or pressure switch. As I said not sophisticated , as if you need greater retard than the one degree you seemingly have to compromise the 'advance' curve. Newer systems, either 2D with compensations or 3D mappable are soooooo much easier to use / work better! Apologies if I caused confusion!
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1 hour ago, MeanBean49 said:
Get an ignitech is the soloution, set your own ignition curve and then set up your own retard curve that increases with boost.
Can be achieved with the 2000i - just not very sophisticated or with great resolution LOL!
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8 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
Now I'm confused..
NA or boost mode? Mine has a rev limiter and a retard function on it, on the retard function there is a test thingy, but that's all. Can you explain it to me, please, I think I'm missing something..
Read section 9 of the Dyna Instructions! The settings knob when turned left? controls NA advance curves & orange wire is a kill trigger - turned right? and retard degrees are selected and the Orange triggers their application - Clear?
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1 hour ago, wombat258 said:
Only on the Dyna 2000 with the programmable option. The unit is easily identified by the extra 3 wires coming out of the box. From memory the purple wire activates the retard function, blue or white wires are are programmable rpm switches (I use them for shift lights). The orange wire in the harness activates the engine kill.
Engine kill when the knob is in NA timing mode - when its turned to retard / boosted settings the Orange enables the retard addition - used it on mine and worked fine ie. it didn't kill the spark!
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4 hours ago, ELLESS said:
Ok thanks i allready got the batt,0,9 kg,the rest too expensive, sad to say. Subframe allmost gone.
It's the way of the world - 'how fast can you afford to go' ?
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I'd suggest - Ti pipe and carbon can? Ltwt. subframe? Carbon plastics? Magnesium wheels? Lithium Battery? so maybe 5 - 10kg's?
Max bore size
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Why stroke a baby one - bore it to 85mm and add a 5mm stroke - proppa!