Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Well if it is U703 - it shouldn't have that on the barrels..........someone's been playing with it!
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Not sure if this is right / wrong and universal to all stud types, but the head ones i've used, generally have a short thread and a long thread either end and i've always threaded the short end into the case up to the end of the thread - never bottomed one out. My reasoning is the longer thread is designed to cope with different barrel / head heights so providing sufficient thread for nuts in all situations. Case studs (M6 and M8) I fit with long thread in fixed case position with nut on short thread as they don't ever vary.
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11 hours ago, BigT said:
You're looking at the 16V 750 manual
You need the GS 750 (8valve) manual
DOH !
LOL!
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8 hours ago, Mcelroy434 said:
Ok thanks for that. I will be running turbo profile cams anyway. So would you suggest buying the profile cams that are advertised as fitting the bandit or the gsxr? You said there is a difference in the cam sprockets?
Can't imagine anyone will grind a 'separate' cam for turbo GSXR's or Bandits, ie. they'll be the same! Cam sprockets are removable and interchangeable due to normal cam chain in GSXR's and Hyvo type in GSF's
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Why buy hi-comp pistons then decompress them? 12:1 isn't totally un-usable on the road, just don't load the motor excessively when hot - it'll pink / knock but you'll have to do it for hours to kill a piston but add some nitrous (for example) and bye bye piston LOL! I'd use copper only because it can be annealed and reused but either will work fine.
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12 hours ago, Fazz711 said:
750 J is the first slingshot.
With the short stroke motor.
1100J is the last slabbie but with 18"three spoke wheels
There is always a nerd around to correct my mistakes - thank you LOL!
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Don't know I'm not up on 750 year spec's!
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1 hour ago, 1993GSXR said:
Thanks! Please forgive the noob questions. I know water cooled started in the US with the 93 model year but:
11- what years are the slabsides? Frame letter codes? 1986 - 1988 or 'G' - 'J'
12- what year are the slingshots? Frame letter codes? 1989 - 1992 or 'K' - 'N'
13- did they change the frame between 92 and 93 beside bolted rear subframe? Unlikely
Thanks again!
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Blandit rubbers will be stretched if used with 38mm carbs as they are designed to work with 36mm carbs! The ones you list are for 40mm carbs so will be an easy fit. Whether sourcing / using 750 38mm rubbers will be worth the expense / hassle is for you to decide!
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Oil cooled GSXR and oil cooled Blandit engines are identical in regard to physical size / dimensions so as #9 any Slingshot frame direct swap and as easy in a slabside. #10 - maybe, as its likely same as the 'N' frame.
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Yes - the long stroke engines are universal for head fit - you'll have to swap the cam wheels and it will have 'low flow' cams but it will work. GSXR 1100 'K' and 'L' (1127) had screw & locknut adjusters, Shims started with the 'M'
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12 hours ago, canamant said:
Lachie 04. If you are fitting the APE studs be very careful. They say torque the studs to 12.5 - 15lbft into the cases. I did that and some of the studs didn't torque up, just wound down into the cases too far. The originals have a "ring" ring at the end of the thread which butts up to the countersink hole in the cases. The APE ones didn't have that so there was nothing to torque up against.
The fitting torque isn't critical to fitting studs IMO - as long as they are screwed in, using thread locker and all with correct fitted length, they will be fine - the nuts provide the clamping force, the studs just resist it! I don't think i've ever used a torque wrench on a stud - just wound them in, finger tight - mostly full thread depth unless height was critical - job done!
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6 hours ago, 1993GSXR said:
1- is the 99 bandit 1200s engine a straight swap, if I’m using everything from the donor bike including engine, wiring harness, cdi, header and exhaust, oil cooler Blandit is physically bigger engine and will be tight fit, why use wire loom not designed to fit? CDI needs to work with engine so yes to GSF one, Ex and header unlikely to fit nicely (if at all) and cooler is the least of the problems
2- what issues should I be anticipating? I read something about drilling the lower engine frame mount bigger. What else? Anything and everything as nothing is liable to 'just fit'
3- can I use the bandit airbox or do I need to stay with the GSXR one? Not a snowball in Hell's chance!
4- do I need to swap the GSXR intake boots to the 1200 engine for carb clearance? The GSXR boots suit the GSXR carb spacing which is different to the GSF - you may get a combination that works but conflict somewhere is likely!
5- can I use the GSXR wiring loom instead (reason: customized to fit my build)? Can't see why not although some modification is required to ign switch if GSF CDI used - and assuming the connector plugs are the same!
6- can I use the petcock from the bandit tank ( I don’t trust my stock gsxr one)? Fairly unlikely due to available space - won't know till you try!
7- can I use the fuel level sensor from the bandit tank? Very unlikely
8- will I ran into any clearance issues? Oooooh Yeah!
Replies in RED above. We do not do stuff because it is easy but because it is hard LOL!
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Sensible option! How many 'load sites' does the software allow you? Most people tend to try spacing them equally over the rev range although most of the action happens between cranking speed and 4k. So if you had 10x rpm sites you could start at 500 and every 500 to 4k with last at 10 or 11k - you need the resolution low down as that is where the small changes are occuring. Good systems will interpolate between load sites so having nothing between 4 and 10k isn't an issue as it'll be the same regardless. Its more fun button pressing than cutting, filing, screwing and getting greasy (sometimes) LOL!
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For a 4V engine its conservative - could go higher sooner and taller then back off ie. 1k - 10 deg, 1.5k - 15 deg, 2k - 20deg, 3k - 35 deg, 4k - 40 deg, 5k - 35 deg then flat line?
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Wiseco recommend 3-4 thou or in metric 0.0762 - 0.1016mm. But that will take a bit of running in and is generally considered a bit tight if the engine is to be 'used' ! Around 0.007" or 0.1778mm is the happy medium . . . . . race motors may go bigger but they get more maintenance so. . . .
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Don't know nuffin about the AEM - heard the name but nothing about the wideband. There are no recommended length between the sensor and the exh. outlet - longer is better because the closer it is to the outlet / end the greater the chance of the sensor 'seeing' atmospheric air, fooling the sensor into thinking the mixture is leaner than it actually is. Mine lives in a turbo dump pipe - about 12" total length and works ok.
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4 hours ago, Crazylien said:
Also : the slabside has different coils than later model gsx-r anyone any tought about what coils are preferred ?
They should all have same general electrical specs so it they fit and work then use either.
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2 hours ago, richyrich said:
Is this to do with resistors and capacitors in the cdi being worn out , or something I can fix in the loom .
Love that description - 'worn out' LOL Resistors and caps and most other components are solid state ie. no moving parts and will generally either work or won't and unless you understand what the component values are / should be, its virtually impossible to fault find - well unless you have a science degree! Substitution with a known working unit is usually the only tested way or replace with an alternative system that can tailor the ign. curve - Dyna or others? A Bandit system may work but the pick-ups will be the unknown as physically not similar?
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Valve heads are 1mm bigger, stems are the same at 5mm, stems on the 1100's are 0.5mm longer so should be able to accommodated with the adjusters. Its whether they can all be fitted into the chamber? Std. seats should be able to be cut to take a 1mm oversize head.
Just thought of another option - turn down an 1100 valve to 750 size - I wouldn't adjust the length as the tips tend to be hardened.
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Nothing wrong with 40 yr old valves but if you don't trust them then you'll either have to dig deep for stock or go aftermarket stainless steel but aren't much cheaper usually more expensive for the 750's! - SS valves for the 1100 are about 1/2 the price - probably bigger market!
It's your risk - replace only the defective ones = save money but others could give out and you lose an engine? Or use a set of s/hand ones and you are in the same place or bankrupt yourself with complete new set of stock or aftermarket. One 'off the wall' idea as alternative is use 1100 valves - they aren't known for failing as they don't tend to get over rev'd like 750's - so cheaper s/hand and will require machining as they are 1mm bigger than the 750's but would be a performance bonus?
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Anyway of adding a couple of O rings to the fitting between the bodies? I would guess there should be some sort of flexible seal there anyway?
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I believe the diagram shows vac hoses that would connect to a vac powered emissions system (limited market fitment) whereas most will have a single line to the vac. fuel tap? The carb tops have a bung covered spigot - front / right on each usually for vac. sync'ing.
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The lower tee's are the fuel supplies to the float bowls - the hoses are indicated on the tap drawing (doh - sensible place!) You have two supplies from tap or if tap has one outlet just run to another tee and split to two.
Does the carb cable mount have a thread in it or plain hole? If threaded then screw in cable adjuster and lock with single nut? Usually only double nut if a plain hole ie. one below and one above.
Engine Codes
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Enthusiast lists aren't foolproof but using Suzuki's normal code methodology the V710 will have changed to V711 (as your's is marked) on the change of cam drive ie. the 'M' series. Assuming the head on yours is screw & locknut style, I wonder if someone has swapped out the M head to an earlier one as they didn't like the shim style?