Gixer1460
-
Posts
5,535 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Gixer1460
-
-
Can't say about a mechanical supercharger but Sean @ Big CC did do a EFE head with equal sized valves in both inlet and exhausts following the above thinking and only did it once which speaks volumes ! It was an absolute dog for building boost - turbo obvs. Whether it would assist a mech. blown motor is anyone's guess but over the 100 or so years that the IC engine has been tuned and raced, no one it would seem, has made significant advantage by using oversize exhausts or using cams with equal lifts? The usual problem with any blown engine is obtaining suitable lift with minimal duration and overlap whilst not smashing the valve train to bits!
-
3 hours ago, Res said:
Good point. Thanks.
Like I said, I'll definitely be cleaning the carbs.
Best place to order rebuild kits?
Depends where you are - 'Murica, Gods own Country - UK or other godforsaken part of the Planet?
To which the logical choices would be Sudco, Allens and not a scooby doo!
-
Start and idle circuits tend to be separate from general running so a good cleaning, focusing on that area would likely be beneficial! Clean carbs are never a bad thing!
-
On 10/14/2019 at 11:36 AM, Nickel said:
In Europe all GSX1100EF engines had about 100hp that day, but the non European models had about 124hp. These engines had cams with a "D" mark.
Bit of a 'catch all' statement. UK never got restricted cams and we are Europeans LOL!
-
3 hours ago, RAGGY said:
thanks for that,asda have got some castrol gtx 10w40 synthetic engine oil for £15 should be £25 would this be ok for now to ride with it in as its basicly to flush the engine but also to ride with in for 2 weeks till i get some proper oil,cheers raggy
DO NOT USE FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL - it causes more problems ....... mineral or semi synth only. Fully synth can kill the clutch in less than 50 - 100 miles!
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/gsx_750_w_x_inazuma_js1ae/98-99/picture/fuel_tap_repair_kit - I hope you have an inazuma? They ain't universal - may fit / may not?
-
10 hours ago, ElVikingoTropical said:
Where can I find the workshop manual for camshafts timing and valve adjustment ?
Cheers
jan
From a genuine 1100 Workshop manual, pages 3-64 and 65 . . . . . 750 should be similar I guess
-
35 minutes ago, Merijn said:
Gsxf has a 16" rim. The F is a lot heavier than a 7/11 tho, wouldn't that be a factor as well?
Odd as a 15/52 is lower geared than a 15/48 and with a lower rolling circumference goes less distance per rev - maybe it runs a taller profile to equal a 60 profile on GSXR ? Yes weight would be an issue on accel. but as a general / touring use, top speed wouldn't be so crucial?
-
I was surprised to see that an 1100F used 52T rear as the GSXR1100 uses a 48T std. and mine used to pull a 45T quite easily. So no you don't want to go bigger unless you want zero front tyre wear! I thought they were both 17" rims?
-
Duff vacuum fuel tap or duff float valves. Expect fuel in crankcase as well - do not try starting engine if latter!
-
1 hour ago, Ibbo said:
Hi, its possibly not something you've been looking for, but here's a few i found with a quick search.
as you surmise - not something i've been looking for LOL! I was aware of the linked web site and although i've suffered a few RR failures i've never felt the need to replace a shunt RR with a Mosfet type, but cheap 'new' ,likely Chinese made units wouldn't be my first preference no matter how cheap!
-
1
-
-
Any single cut seats are usually 45 deg. Three angle cuts will be 30, 45 and 60 degrees - the smaller and bigger angles are used to regulate the 45 deg cut width - narrower for inlets and wider for exhausts for heat transfer. Beware though - the wider the seat, the more it affects airflow - usually downwards!
-
4 hours ago, Ibbo said:
Theres plenty of warnings on the net about the alleged mosfet ones, enough to put me off any way.
Yours is the first i've seen! How are they 'alleged' Mosfet? It's true the older Shunt type RR's are inefficient and tend to have limited lifespans but a Mosfet unit should provide far better regulation and reliability?
-
Usually one of the inlet rubbers has a take off specifically for this function and its size matches the vac. tap port? Not saying a carb top port won't work but they are really choked down for vac gauge idle set-up and stop the needle flickering too much.
-
1
-
-
Sounds a power feed problem as all you've listed usually have power to one side and rely on switched earths to illuminate or turn off (oil, neutral for example) Tacho is three wires - power, ground and signal so not difficult system to fault find!
-
What do the back of the valves / valve stems look like? If they are gunky then i'd suspect stem seals otherwise then likely to be rings! If you've got access to a leak down tester it'll tell you for sure - easier with the head on though LOL!
-
3
-
-
1 hour ago, dupersunc said:
The phh was a twin choke carb.
It was indeed. There is one pish poor picture in an early edition of a Joe Haile Turbo Bike magazine. Not a bad carb but largely unheard of in the 'West' LOL!
If you are tight for space - a Weber DCOE 40 would fuel it perfectly and it's quite shallow like the PHH ?
-
10 hours ago, Ghost said:
Any specific spots where would u put them crank case top of head where that breather is not sure where else
On mine with an 1186 motor I had, one in oil filler, one centre of clutch cover, one on std cam cover breather and additional one on cam cover direct into the valve chest, that and the clutch cover were dash 10 hose, others dash 8 pipe.
-
Dunno where it is on an EFE as I've never had one but would suspect under the seat near the battery but if all lights gone that may have been removed also?
As regards working - Indicators first - Ign live 12v to one pin of 2 pin flasher relay, other pin wire to indicator direction switch input. This splits the volts to either left or right. Pair up one wire from each light on each side including the dash repeater (if fitted) and wire to each side of the above switch with other side of indicator bulbs wired to earth . chassis ground.
Lights - don't need a relay if it is a single headlamp - it will if dual lights or wired that dip and main are on when main selected. Simple circuit - - Wire from fusebox (live with ign.) to lights switch to sidelight circuit, output to front / back sidelights, other side of bulb to ground. Main lights - Wire from fusebox (live with ign.) to lights switch to main light circuit, output to dip / main switch. Outputs to either dip side or main side of bulb, other unused bulb terminal is earth / ground line.
Easier to follow on a wiring diagram than trying to explain in works and make it understandable!
-
2 hours ago, Ghost said:
I was told I may have to make a breather crank case something to that affect I know in a car when built those I had to put a large breather in valve cover with catch can because of the boost lighten up the pressure in there
Yes you will , larger and as many as you can manage - IMO, two 13mm ID pipes would be minimum
-
And no increased valve pocketing required. DRL300 - good little box!
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Nickel said:
One issue I can see is belt tooth to tooth contact over the tensioner. The untensioned side will flap about - its scary how much they do - didn't occur with the original Sims & Rohm due to the poly Vee belt used. Obviously a bit of wear and increased tension makes the situation worse - certainly a shorter belt and getting the tensioner at least 3x the difference?
-
1 hour ago, Nickel said:
One issue I can see is belt tooth to tooth contact over the tensioner. The untensioned side will flap about - its scary how much they do - didn't occur with the original Sims & Rohm due to the poly Vee belt used. Obviously a bit of wear and increased tension makes the situation worse - certainly a shorter belt and getting the tensioner at least 3x the difference?
-
10 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Get shorter belt easiest solution.
Doesn't need to be special - I got mine for a modified car's auxiliaries drive from Medway Belts - http://www.dunlopbtl.com/downloads/Dunlop BTL - Timing Belts.pdf - last ones I bought were £6 or 7 each.
-
12 hours ago, wobblegob said:
oh and removed the shitty bar-end mirrors lol
Yeah - it was looking a bit 'we are the Mods, we are the Mods' scooter like - needs more lights though! LOL!
Weight gsxr 1100 87 performance.
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Looking at that picture . . . . . a long ways! Depends on what its for and how deep are your pockets?