Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Its Fubar'd - the key definitely should not be removable when in run position! I'm no locksmith to know if its fixable so i'd go for a new lock - only downside is a different / original key required for fuel cap!
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The PC stuff these days is a lot more UV stable than it used to be but eventually it will go - maybe 15+ years? Coating a polished frame is an option - most probably just like polishing rather than riding?
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Your options are limited! Forget abrasives and blasting as the frames are anodised as std - not very well but enough to stop corrosion. Any scratching will allow the white furry corrosion creatures in. If you do go that route then either get it clear powder coated (matt or satin) to keep it looking mint or buy a lifetime supply of metal polish and waste every sunday till you sell it - polishing it!
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Add a 3/8 to 1/2" adapter to the 3/8 hex socket and use a 1/2" impact driver - usually a good clout with an engineering adaption tool will shock them free. I've never used heat on anything.
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Oily / soft gunky residue - clean off with petrol / solvent / thinners. Anything harder can be tackled with a BRASS wire wheel tool - don't be tempted to use a steel version as it can scratch seats. A flap wheel using Scotchbrite material works well. Valves can be cleaned if chucked into a drill using Scotchbrite. Nothing needs a 'mirror' finish just clean. Unless the valves or valve seats have been burnt or are pitted they won't need re-cutting, and if valves are going back into the same position in the head, they won't need grinding / lapping - some do it but it is unnecessary (the factory doesn't do it with a new engine!) as clean valves and seats, banging together 8x a second at idle, soon wear in together! Be careful with the valve seals, they can be a bit tight - sitting them in warm oil before fitment sometimes helps and make sure they are fully seated as valve spring retainer will bash them and then you'll be doing the job all over again!
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Lighter colour means hotter burn. That isn't that bad - i'd say almost ideal. The other cylinder though ! ! ! either too rich or not burning efficiently! I've had heads with exhaust valves that come out white and whilst fairly extreme it's just a lean burning tune for max. fuel economy, not lean enough to burn / melt valves or seats. I'd be looking at #3 cos looking at the plug it's almost at the point of misfiring!
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36 minutes ago, CockneyRick said:
And given a choice, i'd choose the smallest one as it'll move less fluid
Maybe so but it'll increase the 'finger pull' pressure making the lever feel firmer!
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Leave it alone - chicks dig scars LOL!
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38 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
don't really know how to say it but petol is much more "liquid" than water. You'll get a false reading.
Also the density is different so the float er... floats higher on water than on petrol.
The phrase is ' has less surface tension' therefore flows easier / is less 'sticky' Just because things 'look' ok doesn't mean they will be. These valves will probably be getting on for 40 yrs old so generally replacement saves an awful lot of grief long term!
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Well you learn something everyday! I wonder why they went that way when the 1100's went from 4 spring straight to diaphragm?
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5 hours ago, cheshirekat said:
not a case of manning up got severe arthritis in my wrists and knees so it becomes uncomfortable to ride any distances with out discomfort thought hydraulic conversion would enable to ride for longer
My sympathies with that condition but no reason the clutch can't be converted, it's just going to take some engineering. Find a bike with a hydraulic clutch that suits your strength and replicate the master cylinder bore size, the slave cylinder bore size and stroke and ensure the stroke matches the case clutch lever required travel - you may have to change the ratio to match.
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What is the 6 spring clutch from? As to my knowledge all of the oil burners only had 4 spring or diaphragm clutches. Early AC motors had 6 springs but were much bigger, later GSXR bikes went to 5 spring I believe?
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Can't imagine it would do any harm!
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On 6/29/2019 at 11:22 AM, PaulDun said:
After stripping my cylinder head I noticed a strange thing?
The shafts the rocker arms run on (no 12 in the attached pic) have a cross head screw and a washer screwed into one end of the shaft on my engine yet the diagram clearly shows none fitted? Is this one of my bikes previous owners bodges or is there a sound reason?
Look at Haynes Manual page 89 - picture 22.3a and there is the crosshead in the end of the rocker shaft and on the following page 22.3c shows a bolt being used to withdraw the shaft. I suspect that there should be screws in either end to maximise oil pressure to the rocker bearings as its piss poor at the best of times - so its not a bodge unless its a Suzuki bodge LOL!
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Airflow causes depression which is what lifts the slides so restricting the inlet area won't help! Usually a dynojet kit will produce the required fix - although some will disagree LOL!
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884cc is the generally accepted 'big bore' but some tuners have taken them out to 950cc with clever mods. Re : your find - the Bonnie is meh, depending on condition, the CB750 shouldn't be mentioned but if the sohc type, has cult following, CBX - boat anchor and the Zed - well , its a licence to print money if clean and original - not many are!
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Unplug it - no more problem. Use trip meter to monitor mileage between fuel stops ie. re-set at fill up - range 150? miles, start looking for fuel @ 130?
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It's not critical - rocks, debris, bits of old gasket - remove. If you are OCD about stuff then some thinners or acetone should get it off but it won't hurt to leave it!
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2 hours ago, baldrick said:
I put my battery, starter, fuse box etc up under the tank at the frontof my magnum. was a bit of a squeeze, but shortens the loom considerably
Starter motor behind the headstock! - novel, but whatever floats yer boat LOL!
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But isn't this a bespoke install so shouldn't have to cut a frame to fit a kit - rather make kit fit the frame? Whilst an HSR (as fitted above ) is a good carb, Mr Turbo kits usually developed using S&S carbs which were considerably shorter so clearing the frame? I'd even consider turning the TB through 90 deg. to face backwards and fit under the seat?
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1 hour ago, slabbyfaceddean said:
No room for a draw through system, the ones i have seen all have a notch in the frame. This is a blow through system if im not mistaken
Using the above picture for reference - once the carbs are removed and the plenum takes their place, it should be no where near the frame so nothing needs 'notching' ! There is loads of space. . . . . whether you can get the turbo into the space behind is another matter. The TB can be located almost anywhere as its only moving air - injectors in the plenum - job done!
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1 hour ago, Blue said:
it didn’t make any difference swapping the lead over from no.2.
that pretty much rules out electrical fault - so looks like the carbs are coming off!
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5 hours ago, B12Mick said:
A few tenth's of a thou distortion when the heads on the Subaru flat 4 are pulled down can upset the valve clearances especially when using oversized14mm head studs for high boost applications on them.
So you are using 'evidence' from a car, two cylinder head , modified for excessive boost against a 4 cylinder head with normal studs and torque fasteners - talk about comparing oranges and bananas!
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11 hours ago, B12Mick said:
I bench shim the heads for the engines I build at work and set them to the top end of the tolerances so when the
heads are torqued down on the crankcases, the clearances normally end up cock on in the middle of the spec.
How does fitting the head to the bottom end affect valve clearances - the two are not interconnected?
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GSX-R 750 86 Restoration from junk
in Oil Cooled
Posted
You should be able to buy a v. good second hand head for waaaaaay less than 16 valves will cost you ie. about a £100 / pair = £800 new LOL!