Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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8 hours ago, Poldark said:
If it was done for a magazine, it was probably done more for looks than structural engineering purposes.
You are assuming they used some backyard bodger! Lucky7 used to have a good rep and turned out good work in the 80/90's! As regards engineering, that is pretty good and well thought out - all main elements are connected and braced in multiple directions, sheet is lighter than tube and has greater surface area to resist torsion + its bloody nice welding! That should be stiff as f**k - bastard to paint though!
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Yes the Haynes Manuals are a bit simplistic but they do assume a degree of mechanical knowledge / aptitude - they aren't 'Janet and John Build a Motorcycle' LOL! And most of the required tolerances are noted at the beginning of each chapter if they have to be checked. You may be able to track down a genuine Suzuki GT500 manual but don't hold your breath as likely out of print for probably 40 years now although Google may assist! Plus they won't give you an easy way - only use special Suzuki tools obviously.
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15 hours ago, Crass said:
Or buy the little numbered labels you can stick round the leads, they only cost pennies from the usual online outlets
Try reading them at the side of the road, in the dark and pissing rain - with zip ties your guide dog can sort them out
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
plug leads 1 and 2 swapped around?
Sounds lame but putting small zip ties - 1 around plug lead #1 and 4 round #4 will ensure you never mix them in future
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3 hours ago, vizman said:
good luck with getting your torch in there to do the returns on that red bit
That's the advantage of brazing tubes - dab the rod in at the back/sides and it'll flow through capillary attraction - 'big boys soldering' really!
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1 hour ago, vizman said:
The only force that’d fold that via the forks is hitting something stationary at about 50 mph,
I did say a LOT of load, but doing stoppies would apply lower comparable forces but if done over and over . . . . . fatigue sets in aaaand ! Which comes back to the point of - if it's likely to take that level of force - why brace at all? I can't say my old Zed framed Kawazuki using GSXR 1100 'L' yokes and forks ever felt 'weak' or 'flappy' and that was entirely stock, framewise. Don't exclude the fact that USD fork and yoke combinations are significantly stronger than OEM equipment and so will transmit forces to frame that would have previously bent the forks or yokes . . . . . . and i'd put the speed closer to 30 than 50mph! The above frame could be easily 'rectified' as picture attached - triangles !
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I doubt very much the benefit of adding tubes to the headstock achieves any measurable difference! Arttu's arrangement using plate gussets adds far more rigidity in engineering terms. The frame with the std. spine plates removed will be significantly worse for flex compared to stock as the lower bearing area has less restraint ie. with a lot of load via the forks it could fold inwards. Rule of bracing - make triangles, That one has a nice rhomboid behind what it is trying to brace!
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When I saw the tag line my brain started thinking GS1000 / GSX1100 but then a 400! Most peeps here, don't consider things less than 600 as viable unless its a 2 smoke LOL! so don't expect too many replies but with a large selection of hammers, grinders and welding equipment, and with time and ingenuity - most anything can be made to fit anything else!
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Agree with Clive - at the Pod you'll get away with stacks (maybe if you don't ride back - top end ain't that clean) anywhere else deffo use filters or an airbox! I had a rock trap the butterfly open on an S&S in front of the turbo at East Kirkby which was fun - NOT!
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4 hours ago, Franklin said:
1. just ordered a compression kit.. i got several projects going on so its good to have one at least.
2. How does one check spark on these old inline 4's? Pull one plug at a time and crank it on the starter motor?
3. Should i pull the carbs off to see what they look like?
1. Make sure it has a 12mm thread adaptor - older bikes tend to use them.
2. Easier on the starter if all 4 are out - put plugs in caps and rest the threads on cam cover. Remove tank as sparks can ignite any fuel vapours
3. I think everyone will answer the same - Oh Yes! If they've sat without being drained for anytime be prepared for nastiness!
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If the side one has creased it makes it a bit tricky but someone who knows what they are doing with a gas torch could 'shrink' them out, minimising the filler. Obvs will require a repaint! Might be possible with weld pins and a slide hammer but tank metal is usually heavier guage so harder to pull out.
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Sounds complicated! My method - Get a mate or two & bribe with beer - lift engine into frame upright - fit a couple of mounting bolts - drink beer!
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VIN - Usually RH side Headstock.
Combustion = Air + a Fuel + spark + compression . . . . . . . basic principles!
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1 hour ago, BigT said:
No, they're not.
On my 78 1000, the electrical panel is rubber mounted and not grounded to the frame. Same with the battery box. Same thing with other models.
Seen it many times (this being one of them) "The lights are on, but the bike won't crank" Ground the solenoid, and voila!
I was referring to the solenoid - not what it is mounted to!
If anyone is daft enough to fit a body earthed (single control wire) solenoid to an isolated / rubber mounting plate without additional earthing strap then . . . . . .
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On 1/19/2020 at 6:39 PM, BigT said:
The only magnetic piece in the motor should be the magnet on the oil drain plug
And in oider Suzuki's, those iddy biddy ones inside the rotor!
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If you understand the basic principles, you are 50% there as they aren't much more sophisticated!
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1 hour ago, vizman said:
No, some of the older starter solenoids are + batt + starter and one wire to activate
True - and they are grounded through the body and mounting. Never come across a rubber mounted solenoid, always hard mounted mine without any problems!
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If you just want to test the engine then a likely problem will be the carbs as the rest of the bike is a testament to disregard & abuse, these will be no exception so you may get sparks but no fuel = no running!
A ghetto wiring solution is to connect bat + to orange/white of coils and CDI, ensure CDI yellow and blue (check these colours as may be different on a GS750) are connected to ign. pickups, black/yellow to coil 2/3, white to coil 1/4, any black/white to earth / chassis ground, Heavy red connected to starter soli and then to starter motor and heavy black from battery to earth / chassis ground. That will put power to the Ign system permanently and will be unswitched - take care ! - Bridging the soli terminals with a spanner will turn the engine over and should run ........ if the fuel system works.
As this is ghetto - you can't turn engine off it runs, you'll have to pull the orange/white off the battery to kill it!
It would be better to find a wire with colour - work out what it serves from the manual wire diagram and make the loom good between the items it serves, one wire at a time till complete and everything works - there really are no shortcuts long term and doesn't cost too much money!.................carbs might though!
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14 minutes ago, kiwisuzuki1100nz said:
ok so as long as I didn't dick with the signal generator position I should be fine?
I am kinda pedantic and like to understand the relationship between TDC and cam position. Wasted spark ignition I get 1 and 4 fire but how do I get the timing between crank piston and cam accurate?
The timing wheel is 'keyed' to the crankshaft so its virtually impossible although i'm sure some muppet somewhere has managed it!
If you have the suzuki workshop manual it usually has a diagram indicating the camshaft timings related to TDC - just know that for a stock bike the advice / positions noted are correct and will work. Adjustable sprockets will be required to move cam timing and unless you know what you are doing - DON'T . . . . . . . pistons partying with valves always gets messy!
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Do you know it will be 'inaccurate' ? Most tank sensors have about the same resistance range across bikes / cars / manufacturers and they are never much more than an 'educated guess' really!
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All the info is there on the picture! Position crank so T mark is just before pick up as shown, then fit ex. camshaft so #1 mark aligns with cover machined surface then count 21/22 pins back on cam chain and fit IN. cam with #3 mark at that pin - all done!
Start kicking yourself now!
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Can't say it can't be done but 'scraping' is usually done on flat surfaces to true them up to micron / sub micron tolerances in flatness! As a pressurised oil fed bearing, there should never be a metal/metal contact only having oil drag to contend with! Scraping is also generally done on 'hard' materials - cast iron, steel etc. not aluminium as its too soft - any scraped peaks would be worn smooth through use.
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
I would be tempted to leave the base gasket out if you want to increase the cr a bit more.
Ok if you go dry block with external oil lines but would be risky (IMO) with pressurised oil up studs! I certainly wouldn't trust some Hylomar or ATV sealant in lieu of a shim steel / copper / paper gasket.
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If it was from a WP - that was water cooled and so the oil cooler is supplementary and not a main cooler - waaaaay to small as a primary cooler! The oil lines are potentially GSXR? as on a WP the cooler is mounted low down and those lines wouldn't fit - more investigation!
Gsx frame vs gs. Difference?
in Air Cooled
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Not much from the OP - we must have scared him off - to many questions!