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Gixer1460

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Posts posted by Gixer1460

  1. Just got off the bone with a M8 having similar problems and has just taken the bike apart, chasing all the wire connections, plugs etc and cleaned and checked everything, carbs checked, coils checked, plug caps and leads all with no effect - still pissy weak pathetic sparks. Swopped out the 'new' plugs that have probably done less than 200 miles for some old ones that were well past their best and it fired up clean as you like on 4 cyls when it wouldn't run at all! I haven't seen the plugs but suspect Chinky Fakes - sometimes cheap is TOO cheap! These came from a Dealer which is worrying if fakes are in the mainstream supply chain!

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  2. 1mm will deffo sound tappetty ........says the man who did the clearances on both cylinders of a Vee engine WITHOUT turning it 360 degrees! DOH ! ! ! BTW it sounded shocking!:(

  3. 49 minutes ago, majortom4 said:

    It didn't make the noise when it was standard pistons in so the clearances shouldn't have changed correct?? Or could they??

    No noise when standard but noise now with taller? pistons, closer valve - piston clearances? and possibly incorrect cam timing? and there's lots of reasons for noises! What engine is it, would be a start for diagnosis?

  4. You've got your dipping mixed up - Japan and UK dip to left, rest of the world (sort of) dip to right. Some motorcycles are centre dip to avoid the left / right supply problems. Surely you can tell what its doing if its ready for an MOT?

  5. My own opinion is...... water is your primary coolant so loss of oil cooler whilst a concern isn't crucial. As the engine will be working harder, it would make more sense to increase water rad / system capacity! You could fit a remote oil to water cooler elsewhere later if required. With a plain bearing turbo, any oil pressure above 30 psi is ok providing the drain has capacity to drain it! I've used Dash 4 oil feed restricted and un-restricted on two different builds. Ideally you want the turbo higher than the filter - having to remove all that junk just to change a filter gets old very quickly!

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  6. No such animal as a T34 - that was a Russian WW2 Tank! - Its probably a T3 / T4 hybrid. It'll be big, it'll probably be 'laggy' and why the carbon seal as the Cosworth installation wouldn't have needed it? £500 sounds a bit spendy to me for something that may not suit a bike.

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  7. On 5/11/2016 at 2:59 PM, boilerdude said:

    Basically just because the bandit (which is a budget bike btw... built well but cheap...) came with 36 doesn't mean those are the absolute optimum carbs for the bike

    I never said they were optimal but have yet to find anyone who could use all the performance from bigger carbs DAY 2 DAY against the smaller ones! My 1460 has 185hp with 46mm EFI but also works with 40mm RS flatslides - probably 170hp - but the 40's produces soooo much more torque that can be used DAY 2 DAY they work better! A M8 had 41mm FCRs on his 1216 bandit (which engine wise was mostly GSXR, only bandit cases) and made great power but likes the RS36's fitted now better cos they make nearly the same power WOT but out torque the bigger carbs by miles in the mid range!

  8. Google doesn't have much info on that unit but it seems that it may be a derivative of the RBH5 unit which was considered suitable 'back in the day' for 1100 size engines, so should be ok for a sub 1 bar boost set up. Better be very cheap as spares may not be common!

  9. 36 minutes ago, banoffee said:

    I worked in Halfords when I was a teenager, we'd get people in asking to buy temp gauges for their VW beetles.

    And the moral is - you was a spotty 'no nufink' yoof who didn't know that cylinder head temp gauges and oil temp gauges were and are available for aircooled VW's

  10. Yeah - Vizman buys it all - official OSS Sh1te tester LOL! 

    An overly hot engine is natures way of telling you that, 'YOUR RIDING TOO SLOW!'

    In all honesty an oil pressure gauge would be far more use and give more useful info..............if you have time to clock a gauge!

  11. The water cooled turbos were introduced by car makers who were fed up having warranty claims on turbos due to hot shut downs! Red hot turbo shut down with no oil circulation and it cooks the residual oil to coke and done enough times = fubar'd bearings! With water around the bearings, the water will continue to take away the heat after shut down. Just a few minutes at idle after a thrash will prevent coking. BUT IMO the new breed of BB turbos that rely on plastic bearing cages really do need the water cooling for a long life.

  12. Safe to say......................don't trust the gauge! You've probably got nearly 5 gallons main tank so i'd brim the tank and zero the trip and ride as normal - its got to do 40-45 miles / gallon so a potential range of 200-225 miles whilst still tap is 'on' but you really need to establish 'on' and 'reserve' for peace of mind - sorry can't help you there!

  13. For me, I wouldn't have used the 'vacuum' ports for fuel reg as this will try to lower fuel pressure when throttles are closed - ok with EFI and is the norm but not necessary with carbs. They just need a static FP that rises dynamically with boost that is sourced from the pitot tube.

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