Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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1 hour ago, warmsupersteve said:
35 views nobody,, wonder I don't bother with oss anymore been a member for years still the same,,
Well you haven't been the most active member for all your 'years' on the site! I think most are to polite to say its a crap idea - so I will ...... its a crap idea!
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1371cc
in Oil Cooled
5 hours ago, Fula28 said:Agreed say what now!? 1460. Was just trying to show there available ! Street finned are availed too .i just don't have a piccy.
Stop misleading the masses then LOL! Finned blocks will certainly help but they don't half look weird when compared to a std GSXR block - need surface area which is in short supply unless you want it to look aircooled!
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1371cc
in Oil Cooled
11 hours ago, Fula28 said:They are about as I'm sure most know!
Just ask, Stuart warpspeed
Yes - Warpspeed = 2nd to none machining but would you really want to run a dry block on the street? This is a streetbike (from the piccies?)
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1371cc
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You may struggle to find a 'Gorilla' block to take liners that big - APE haven't made them for probably 10+ years. Plus without extra finnage on the block it'll run bloody hot as a streetbike! Personally i'd stick at 80mm turbo pistons and a nice punchy draw through BB turbo with EFI and single throttle body!
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Nice but not really necessary. The std pump system can be pushed to 30psi which is ok for a plain bearing turbo and if you use a BB turbo you don't need increased pressure anyway. Dino's should have the turbo behind the cylinders then gravity drain is golden - problems sorted LOL!
@ Reinhoud - seriously? They are so oldskool before oldskool was cool! Originally designed to pressurise aircraft cabins back un the 50/60's. They are seriously scarce in A1 condition now and spares are very limited, quite narrow and the lower oil pressure came from the single bearing core so they tend to 'wobble' a bit more. Unless you've got one - I wouldn't go looking for one.
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This is a problem using a std ignition system with a radically different configuration of engine! The Blandit ign curve is designed to suit a 'low' comp engine so will probably be a bit retarded around idle and more advanced higher up to compensate. This sounds opposite to what you need! Adding the advancer may help low end but will smoke the engine at high rpm's IMO. So unless you swop out to a Dyna 2000i or similar where you can tailor a better ignition curve, you'll always have to suffer a compromise set-up!
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Stu's machinist really has too much time on his hands LOL! Finish on those parts is superb.
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58 minutes ago, Danm54 said:
Its not got the ms v3 any more, it stopped responding and nothing would bring it back. Went away from ms as they're just too trippy.
Its got a Specialist Components Typhoon ecu, good bit of kit actually.
Just got to get my head around how it works and what does what, its not that bad but its different to the ms layout and seems to work different.
Just had a look and it's a shame they don't allow software downloads so you can play before you buy! You might be the only person using this so the learning curve just got Everest like! LOL!
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The compression rings are likely shagged out - oil rings do little work so are less likely to wear and hence seal well when your shot of oil was dumped on them! They are designed to scrape oil back down not drain oil from above. Hot or cold is immaterial - you are looking at trends and as recommended pressure is around 170 -190psi (guessing) your's look terminal.
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Knew there was something for Starting - cold or otherwise........ https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/megasquirt-startup-tuning/
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I understand that Mega squirts are expecting to use GM sensors - if yours isn't then re-calibration will be required. You sure no cold start enrichment - its fairly fundamental to engine operation?
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Without sounding too obvious you've got a permanent drain somewhere! Alarms are famous battery killers - I mullered an expensive gel unit when I locked the steering in the park position so the front side light was on - no back lights at the time - and as it was facing a wall I didn't see the tiny glow for 3 months = flat as a sheet of paper ! Out with the multi meter and check draw on each fused circuit.
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If the pump has a built in regulator an additional regulator fitting on the fuel rail is surplus to requirements - the pump is designed to work with dead headed injectors. All can be tested under load - just needs a bit of ingenuity! Take injectors and rail out of the TB's and position over 4 measuring jugs / beakers / jam jars. Connect up 12v to the live common feed wire and connect all the switched earths together and ground them out for 20 or 30 seconds. Measure each jars volume in cc's, then add all together, then multiply by 3 or 2 - depending on whether test was 20 or 30 seconds. That gives total flow / minute. Most systems are maximum 80% injector duty so take 80% of your per minute flow and see if it matches or exceeds your required flow for hp expected. Plus if any individual amount varies by 5% get them cleaned - shouldn't vary be more than 1% for accurate fueling!
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Nope - looks fine to me!
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3 hours ago, bruteforce said:
Hi Gixer1460, I have the standard bolt-2washers-nyloc nut on each arm, and run fresh standard spec (coil) clutchsprings. This should be OK.
I DO have a little notching in the basket as it's a 30yr old motor. In the meantime I have gotten 2 spare baskets that I'm dreading to put on because I fear whining noises from non-matching main gears.
Sorry to mislead - I was thinking GSX baskets ie. aluminium - usually chewed to buggery! GSXR steel baskets usually mint. A ridged hub can be filed to smooth if really bad but it will usually return.
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52 minutes ago, bruteforce said:
JK, I get the impression you haven't checked deckheight then, as the pistons apparently were touching the ceiling with the 1,5mm spacer plate? Any idea what actual CR might be? I would make sure of that so it won't blow up because CR is still too high...
That did occur to me - touching at 1.5mm and not at 2.0mm means only 0.5mm squish which is about half what it needs to be for a road bike!
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You shouldn't need to raise spring load on a road bike, we've used softer springs when racing to induce a degree of slip on launch.
What weight have you got on the arms at present?
What state is the clutch basket and hub in? If they are a bit notchy then that may start the slip.
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Lose the advancer - deffo NOT required with higher CR! Unless you are using race gas!
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VM29's were fitted to early GSXR 750's only I think but the rubbers may not suit a 1100 / 1200 head. An alternative may be GSX 1100F rubbers that had 34mm carbs - only a little oversized then!
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A fresh charged battery will show 13.2v and should sit at about 12.7-12.8v. What ignition are you using - blandit or GSXR? There are likely to be timing / advance differences which won't help pinking issues. You've increased the combustion efficiency significantly with the compression increase - that needs more fuel just to keep up - don't second guess fueling, if you haven't got a wideband lambda, get it on a dyno asap! An exhaust leak won't significantly affect in-cylinder mixture just after its out - popping is the usual symptom on decel. Sometimes high comp. and slow starter speed bumps the starter clutch enough to undo the retaining bolt so starter will just spin and can't turn the engine. Sounds like a combination of lots of small issues that need to be addressed on at a time!
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Not my cup of tea but good engineering nonetheless..........I think that exhaust ain't gonna last too many roundabouts though!
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I used to run Wiseco 80mm 12.5:1 pistons in my road bike - didn't get overly hot, made loads of power though!
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2.2 ohm coils not recommended with std ecu. Std coils and green dynas draw (12.6v / 3.0 ohms =) 4.2 amps. If you use 2.2's the calc is (12.6v / 2.2 ohms =) 5.73 amps. This could be stressing the output transistors so a misfire is a possibility.
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Ah so completely different to the GSXR then - bloody OEM changing stuff!
Trigger Wheel Guide
in Forced Induction
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Or just swop the signal wires on the coils?