Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Doesn't only one of them have the vacuum take off for the fuel tap, hence 3 same + 1?
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Victor Reinz have a very good reputation in gasket manufacture and supply lots of Auto OEM's so don't worry on that score.
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20 hours ago, dav said:
Okay, thx. Learned today: there's lots of oil behind the timing cover of al slabside .
Ain't called 'oil cooled' fer nothing!
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The tighter you can get the squish the better it improves the burn but the tighter it gets the greater the risk of excess revs destroying the big ends from touching. Multiple base gaskets are ok copper, steel or paper options all good although paper can deform into the transfer galleries blocking up to 25% of their area. Personally I preferred to take the oil out of the block entirely and run external lines - no leaks and cooler oil IMO.
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Very impressive and innovative! Can't say i've ever seen anyone use a bevel driven oil pump but if it works then why not!
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3 hours ago, Pasis said:
Thanks guys !
We continue to do.
Pistons will be 77mm, turbo mtc.
We did 1192 N\A with 79.5mm pistons on the standard block. Motorcycle riding is great, but I have 2 times head gasket is blown. I decided that with the turbo, this block will not work well. Only for low boost pressure.Wow - not surprised you has HG issues - 81mm o/all liners - 79.5mm bore = 0.75mm liner thickness! New block looks mint - how are the water channels connected to allow flow once the liners are installed? Should enjoy turbo boost with this one.
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The new ones compared to your old ones will seem soft as the old ones have had 20-30 years to harden / stiffen up. Personally i'd say the jubbly clips aren't helping - the edges are sharp not dressed or rounded like most OEM clips so can cut the more flexible rubber which will 'balloon' more with intake pulsing but 6 months is pretty poor whatever the cause!
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30 minutes ago, colinworth79 said:
my turbo bandit , roughly the same spec , starts with the choke as normal . I take it you lowered the float hights slightly to compensate for the fuel being fed by a pump rather than gravity. I run the fuel pimp via a relay that is switched by the oil pressure switch so when I put the ignition on the pump doesn't run until the engine is being cranked . It stopped the occasional flooding of the carbs .
Not such a bad idea and also if you do throw it down the road will stop the pump pissing fuel over a hot engine! Just don't run out of fuel as cranking an engine to build oil pressure to activate the pump to re-fill the bowls can kill an average condition battery!
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Usual symptom of an intake air leak and / or a slightly frayed cable inner - either way, excess air!
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Yeah - Phone Stuart at Warpspeed Racing - UK made and works well!
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2 hours ago, Del said:
Get one of the car 19 row oil-cooler relocation kits from China,the quality is brilliant and comes with hoses and fittings.Also very cheap
http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/271803599297Maybe ok as a supplementary cooler for a car but I consider dash 8 hose undersized for main cooling pipe on an oil cooled engine, dash 10 minimum IMO!
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Personally I wouldn't go smaller than a 19 row regular width, wide type if you prefer slightly better cooling if any performance mods in future are planned. 19 row regular worked for me on a streetbike with turbo fitted - but it did get BLOODY HOT! at lower speeds LOL!
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1/8" NPT would be about right.
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Anywhere between high 13's and 14.5v depending on rpm's
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Loads!......... Try this one - https://www.oldbritts.com/brake_line.html
They have a nice alloy hose clamp, i've managed using the vee in a workmate for years, or without using a Dremel. The one thing that MUST BE DONE is ensure the olive is seated right down on to the inner pipe. I usually tap it on with small hammer then holding the hose, olive end down, smack the olive face against the bench to drive it on - you'll see the inner clearly when its fully home. And that's it!
PS - don't forget to put the 'nut' on the pipe, over the masking wrap, before cutting / flaring - you won't do it after - Trust me!
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12 hours ago, Duckndive said:
So for a T3 snail fuelling a busa pistoned stock studded 1100k lump it made ...............230BHP & 110nm Torque...
Chart to follow when I get it...........
Respectable and the right noise!
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Brakehoses don't need to be swaged! DIY build will need a sharp fine bladed hacksaw or Dremel cut off wheel, a sharp knife to de-bur the teflon inner hose, some masking tape, a 7/16 or 1/2" spanner and a metal vise - thats it!
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I can't speculate but any wideband controller i've seen are either in a box about the size of a packet of fags, one's like the Innovate one above or built into a read-out gauge. They are fairly complicated electronics to heat and keep the sensor at a constant temperature, do the comparison between gas sampled and its baseline, and then change a millivolt output and scale it up to something between 0 and 5v!. The company response would worry me unfortunately as they can't be sure?
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Did some digging and downloaded / installed the SX Tuner software that had a manual attached and found this.....
" Closed loop fuelling control is provided by using either a narrowband lambda sensor connected directly to the ECU lambda input or by using a wideband sensor connected via an external wideband sensor controller with a 0-5V analogue output. Narrowband sensor control can only be used to target exhaust lambda of 1.00 (AFR 14:7 with petrol/gasoline), normally for exhaust emissions reduction using a three-way catalytic converter. Wideband sensor control can be used to target any air-fuel ratio and also for tuning. SC recommends that wideband control is not left turned on permanently, but only used as a tuning tool. Wideband sensors and controllers are not generally reliable enough to use for long periods of time and a faulty sensor could give incorrect feedback into the ECU and cause the engine to run dangerously lean, resulting in engine failure. Once the engine has been correctly calibrated there is no need to continue using wideband lambda sensor control."
So without seeing the actual install I can't see if a controller has been installed but it should be fairly obvious ...... see this....
Hope this helps not hinders?
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12 hours ago, Danm54 said:
It does list it as having a wideband controller.
I guess if thats gone up it then the ecu needs to go back.
Not seeing that in their blurb! It says narrow or wideband CONTROL ie. of fueling, not how the sensor works. You must have a wiring diagram for fitting it - even if you didn't fit it? A copy / look at that would confirm?
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51 minutes ago, Danm54 said:
This is wired direct to the ecu, there's no external controller.
I've not seen any test or diagnostic function though.
As you have that Tornado ecu, I can't look at the software or the schematics so don't know if it has an internal controller but it would be unusual ie even Motecs rely on standalone controllers and just take the output like any other sensor. This is a wideband lambda? otherwise if it was narrow band ie 1, 2, 3 or 4 wire then it wouldn't have a controller as it generates its own voltage from 0 - 1v only though!
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1 hour ago, Danm54 said:
New lambda fitted and permanent 12v off the battery sorted.
Lambda still reads 5v...
Fucked off now, I seem to be throwing money and time at this and getting nowhere.
Sounds like an issue with the Lambda controller - I think the Innovate controllers have a diagnostic function to test the sensors but obviously if its the controller thats fubar'd you are in the dark whatever!
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Even Lectron Fuel Systems don't recommend use on the road - says a lot IMO.
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Well known problem and yes its a case split but you don't have to strip the top end - just drop oil, take clutch out as there are some cross the joint tabs to remove, remove sump and then you can remove the bottom case - maybe some bits i've forgotten! Could be the selector but more likely the gear dogs have rounded off and as they are paired with 5th they'll be usually worn as well! Gears ain't cheap but will be uprated 'M' parts which are undercut. The old gears can be saved by being undercut - best they all get done - makes them fairly bulletproof and positive selection!
Mikuni carb tops ?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Ha Ha Ha - shows how long since i've used CV carbs LOL!