Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Also not sure where 120psi comes from? Is that what you require? If so, it's waaay to much and would deffo push oil temps skyward and be totally unnecessary!
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8 hours ago, Ivan said:
There is also one dragracer with a busa engine
Only one ? ? ? - I'm sure they are more popular than that !
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If you are talking Aircooled GSX and oil cooled GSF (ie Blandit?) then no they aren't the same - in fact radically different! A stock GSX oil pressure will be 10 - 15psi (maybe) hot, often lower whilst a oil boiler will seldom drop below 40 - 50 psi hot, when cold they'll often be 80 + psi. Its all about the bearings - ball and rollers Vs shell types!
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3 hours ago, blandit600 said:
The reason I like the K1 bodies is the secondary butterflies. Even though the bore size is larger on K1, I'm planning on using these secondary Butterflies to tune out some of the air inrush to create a better velocity and varying RPM. I would assume you plan on using the K1 ecu? as I don't know of any aftermarket ecu's with integrated secondary throttle controllers!
I dabble in electronics, PCB Design / microcontrollers and ECU architecture, and I'm doing this as a hobby / challenge. I love the 600, its was the first big bike I bought 16 years ago, its comfortable to ride and not fast enough to get you into serious trouble ha, I was fed up of the carbs requiring maintenance all the time as I don't get to ride it as often as I would want, and Its missing some modern comforts.....
Not only did I want to make this EFI, but I wanted to add:
1) Secondary Butterflies - Better throttle response, more tuneable power curves etc etc Most people actually delete them and don't notice significant changes in ridability! And you still have to find a way of controlling them!
2) Launch control - I'm heavy into drag racing too, and thought this would be a bit of a laugh With a 600 it'll certainly be a challenge and 'multi purpose' bikes are a compromise of everything! Lots have tried and disappointed with results.
3) Flat shift - I'd like to add a strain gauge, essentially a quick shifter, but instead of adding an additional ignition cut box, I'll let the ECU handle it. Sounds sensible and easy enough to achieve with aftermarket ecu's
3) Switchable maps - This may end up not being used, but I want to experiment with higher octane fuels. I may just go flex fuel, but with the map switch I can also look at fuel economy or power reduction for the colder months, etc etc. Unless you build the engine to NEED hi test fuel, using it is a waste of time and money as it will achieve nothing. Building a engine that needs Hi Test all the time 'may' benefit from a 'low power, low test fuel map' if you can't get Hi Test as a safety measure.
4) Traction Control - I feel more confident riding my more modern bikes in the winter months as they have ABS, wheelie control, traction control etc etc and Traction control will be the easiest to add, a couple of wheel speed sensors and were good to go. I'm sure the OEM factories don't think TC is 'easy' and probably spent considerable time and money to get it fool / idiot proof - the mechanical bits maybe easy, the electronics and codemaybe not so?
5) Reliability - As I don't get to ride much, when I do want to jump on this bike, I don't want the hassle of whether its going to start 1st time? or if its not running well etc etc. EFI isn't a turn key panacea! Fuel still goes bad in FI bikes just as easily as carb equiped ones. The require better electrical systems and alternator output to cover the extra loads and whatever you build it'll still need tuning to get 'turn key' reliability!
Some responses to points raised (only my opinions, others may differ!) - Text in RED
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Well 40 or 41mm ID carbs tend to use the 1100M rubbers so I would use those as 38mm ID carbs can be a squeeze in 1200 rubbers
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I would imagine that, as the 1200 has larger cylinder bores when compared to the 600 the inlet spacings will vary correspondingly with offsets to get back to the 80-80-80 spacing so finding correct offset rubbers will be a mission! Alternatively use a set of rubbers that works for the head, and respace the TB's to suit !
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Then the push rod is too short or the lever at the master is incorrect ratio and moving too much fluid?
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3 hours ago, vern said:
Put the barrels on first and pistons through the top? Or crank and pistons into cases and slide barrels on??
Whilst that may be possible with car / truck / tractor blocks, it is virtually impossible through the bottom of a bike crankcase - as others have said either 2 x 2 or all 4 together is possible with a couple of pairs of hands!
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3 hours ago, Arttu said:
Later one has steel insert in the center so it doesn't wear that easily. But sometimes the insert can get loose which naturally will cause quite significant rattle.
Got one sitting here with exactly that problem - minimal plate tooth wear on the actual hub, but steel insert is loose with visible gaps!
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Prob. US list as the Yanks didn't get the 'GSX' per se - called everything GS!
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The GS pistons are 2 valve and the GSX are 4 valve, so no not interchangable!
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1 minute ago, Joshua said:
Hi, i am looking for information on how to connect pencil coils to my 97 blade wich run on coil packs, any info that can help wil be appreciated,thanks
Ooooh you're going to get some flak for asking that !
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1 hour ago, wraith said:
The gsx750et have a higher volume gears than the gsx1100et, they also fit the gs850/1000 not 100% on the 750 and don't know if they will fit the efe
I was told the gear swap was from the GS750/550 not the GSX variant? The GSX750ET definately had a different oil supply as oil pressure was considerably greater as required for the shell bearings in the mains and rods. The gears when used in the 1100's never produce anything like the pressure got in the 750ET for some strange reason even though I think the pumps are the same! With the uprated gears in a 1100/1150 you nearly double the std. pressure to a 'huge' max of about 30psi LOL!
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Pretty unlikely and if it was possible the drag racers would be making a big thing about it. The Busa and GSX14 cases are comparitively smaller than the GSXR ones and it only needs a mill or two difference between shaft centres and the swap comes to a screaming halt!
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Combination of everything being nearly f**ked = it's totally f"*ked!
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20 minutes ago, colinworth79 said:
I've done a head the biggest problem is not the rockers it's the end float on the camshafts . The thrust faces need welding up then machining .
Can't see why? Tappet cams use same cam bearings, caps and sprockets with M head / cams having an additional bearing each that has no lateral locating function, so the two should function identically !
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Get the mismatch in pipe lengths right and they may work like a 'big bang' engine as far as the turbo is concerned . . . . . . . maybe?
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No OEM cases come with numbers - it was so dealers could restamp the original numbers when replacing cases! Obviously its well open for abuse ie. clone cases but there you go. Seriously a cracked engine mount is a minor fault that can be welded to 'good as new' - there have been cases on here that have massive holes in them that have been repaired. It would be a shame to replace the gearbox and lower case and then knock out the main crank bearings as they weren't matching!
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True but you still can't throw some random bottom case on there!
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That rpm is bang on Needle territory and if you are max rich its going to need different profile - hence why DJ kits came into existance!
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15 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
The RU2922's i bought new, were pre-oiled from the factory.
This . . .
Is about right out of the packaging and correct for use. Pouring more oil on them is couter productive, less air flow and richer running! I've run them virtually black with no difference in air flow or AFR on a wideband. K&N oil is good to use on foam filters also!
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Probably! Spare atu's shouldn't be to rare.
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9 minutes ago, BillyR said:
I wouldnt vent back into the intake, engines love cool air.
So having the carbs right behind a engine producing copious quantities of heat is ok?
Any 'heat' from a breather is negligiable and makes f**k all difference!
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A duff RR can't harm a new battery unless it is either over or under charging! You will not be able to determine either scenario without a running engine - 5 minutes will suffice and for that you'll need a battery! It is more than likely the RR is dead and not outputting any meaninful voltage in which case you'll need one of them as well! Avoid Chinese Eblag RR's ! ! ! They are cheap for a reason !
I note also the old Suzuki wiring of one alternator leg to the light switch circuit ! ! ! This is best modified to run all 3 alt outputs to the battery and then run the lights from the fusebox, Ignition switched side. This is a better and more reliable way of charging the battery / running the lights / saving the RR cooking itself!
What other front fork system of Suzuki works on a GS500 2007 (K7)
in Air Cooled
Posted
Dunno - we don't do 'new' bikes!