Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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3 hours ago, BillyR said:
I used to run crankcase breathers into the exhaust, less pressure inside the motor the better.
Good until you get a backfire in the exhaust as the breather is full of volatile gases which could make a mess of the crankcases - you need to add a PCV to prevent this.
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Think about what you are proposing! If you leave the cams in they will not be rotating. At any point one or two valves will be opening / off their seats / closing. To feed the chain in you MUST rotate the crankshaft. Doing so, risks driving the pistons into open valves and bending them!
Still want to leave the cams insitu?
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Most engines using Alcohol use injection either mechanical or electronic - basically as easier to drain and / or revert to petrol to run through before shut down. Not doing so will corrode or fur up everything its touched - total PITA. I can't imagine a std. Blandit carb lasting long with an organic super solvent flowing through it! Whilst you are only doing a 1/4 mile, I see no oil cooler fitted to an oil cooled engine - no wonder its getting hot! Try fitting one and you may avoid most of the problem! Oh and you'll probably have to up the boost to make the best of using methanol as compared to petrol, its fairly power poor so not directly comparible.
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As we are mainly UK / European based and both the 'Vulcan' or V&H ignitions were neither popular or widely used, the info you seek will be thin on the ground (here at least). If its that important . . . . . . . . . . . . why aren't you asking V&H themselves?
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They aren't 'from' anything! They are aftermarket upgrade carbs primarily intended for race applications but widely adopted for road use. They are modular and can be adapted to fit multiple applications as can their brothers 34, 38 and 40mm. Yes they can be fitted to a Blandit and at a guess you might pick up 5 or 6hp but do some more tuning and 10hp could be possible and they do look cool but need a whole different riding style for their operation!
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^ ^ ^ - I thought it, He wrote it LOL!
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Double fiddly with the Hyvo chain - I've done rivets with a normal chain, not sure about a hyvo!
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Is that a statement or a question? If the latter, all the diagnostics are as above!
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31 minutes ago, coombehouse said:
According to your gauge, it appears to be slightly lean. Mine seems to idle best at 13-13.2 afr though I do ignore it & just tune for fastest, smoothest idle, but these seem to be the numbers it likes.
Have you tried spraying wd40 or similar around the intake boots to see if it affects the idle. This will indicate an air leak
To be honest I never looked at vid till this comment and that set up isn't really the best for accurate measurement as A) its too far from the exhaust ports and B) mounting the sensor like that always a large amount of 'uncontaminated fresh air' into the pipe and around the sensor. This is why they are usually buried after the manifold or collectors, high up in the system. A Lambda of 0.90 - 0.91 isn't too bad and translates to between 13.23 - 13.38 but if its being skewed by fresh air it could be somewhat richer! The above point is always an issue with turbo's that use dump pipes and not a full system!
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Usual cause is an intake air leak - the larger / richer idle jets would support this theory
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Its carbs / fuel related! You say carbs cleaned - ultrasonic? If not, probably dirty / drilling blocked / float valves damaged!
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RTFR #11 !
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New or old plugs? If new don't bother cleaning as fouled plugs rarely 'clean up' or function correctly - also they could be fakes if NGK / Denso ! ! !
Std coils in good working order will fire plugs in most things - high CR, Nitrous and Turbo applications will test their limits. For a 'normal' engine a std. 3.0 ohm coil will be fine. Most times 'electrical' problems are usually carb related!
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The jets you've got presently sound fairly big for an 1100 (assuming that was what you had before) at normal sea level - 150/200ft elevation. At altitude of 3400ft there is less air / oxygen so those jets would give a massive rich condition ! ! ! With altitude you use less fuel to match the lesser air, thats why you lose power if keeping AFR approx the same or you lose power due to overly rich mixture! Very few peeps on here live at those sorts of elevation so any jetting advice would be dubious at best - honestly I'd try it as it is but I suspect richer is NOT what the engine wants!
I don't remember the DJ / Mikuni jet correlation but my 1186 kitted GSXR with 36 CV's and 12:1 CR and unported, at maybe 50ft ASL used DJ136's and made 144hp.
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I'm not sure why they are so wide compared to 'tappet' types ie. have a, twice as wide allowance, compared and as a result are noisy as 'marbles in a tin can' Drove me mad so I used the 'tappet' bottom end settings!
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I'd still plump for the PAIRS valve! This functions via vacuum and you get most vacuum at idle and high rpm shut throttle. Most peeps notice the throttle shut thing due to the really loud bangs from the exhaust but this could be other end of spectrum, otherwise don't honestly know as the PAIRS got deleated on my bike as the Ex bangs got a PITA!
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You can faff around all you like without taking the carbs off, but you'll never clean them properly until you do! Old rubbers usually soften up with some gentle heat and something the yanks call 'wintergreen,' whatever the hell that is - it seems to soften rubber? - if you can find it on our side of the pond!
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No heat and no oil as I remember! If you have the tip protruding, it may help to file a flat on it to give your screwdriver needle point more to 'aim' at. A block of wood opposite the screwdriver in the bore will give something to lever against without damage to the alloy. Its usually just brute force and ignorance that works in the end . . . . . . . . or give up and replace the body!
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They are bonded together! When you think about it, that is the only thing stopping water getting inside - its understandable!
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Good luck - it took me weeks of on /off trying to do one in a set of RS's. Generally caused by screwing the screw down closed too much, it jams and just twists off! I used a needle pointed, sharpened screwdriver with tip bent at 90 degrees and work from carb bore.
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Try This - No guarantee's as I picked it up years ago, as a 'Just in Case'
EDIT - Site doesn't allow .dwg's or .pdf's ! ! ! Send me a PM with a email address and i'll send them!
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50 minutes ago, Joseph said:
but won't the brass dots not be on the same PCD ?
Only if Suzuki San decided to create a whole new shifter drum! Easier to shrink a piece of plastic whilst keeping SD machining pattern the same! I think you'll find a Hayabusa has a similar PCD of contacts but different plastic moulding and electronics (more suited to EFI integration)
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Quote
BDST36SS CV Mikunis off of a 94 RF900
The giveaway is the 'D' in the serial number - D = Downdraft. Same as when people pick up downdraft orientated FCR flatslides - they need re-spacing as always too narrow and the float bowl angles are all wrong. They sometimes work but not optimally, either flooding or running lean.
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Max overbore on oil cooled engines
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Quote from APE webpage (later Blandit included for info) :