Dorkburger

ET are different, as in won't bolt up without mods, and EFE seem to be difficult to find.

Good to know. I guess I bought h into the hype of the non welded crank being inferior. Thanks.

Can't help too much, but it sure looks cool. Wear on the front rotor looks funky / uneven. Also, the 82 1100e motor doesn't have a welded crank from the factory, and the problematic small taper crank that can allow the charging rotor to slip - if its still a stock crank - worthwhile to ask..... I think TRAC is Kawasaki lingo.....? Edit- looks like TRAC is Gurls blouse lingo....

I used a product called Gunk Hydro Seal - pretty nasty stuff. It even took the paint off of the carb bodies. I just looked it up and see now they are up to Hydro Seal 2. Not sure if its the same. As noted, I did mine way back in '99.

That’s about what my carbs looked like when I bought my 1150. It had stood for 12 years. After a day plus soak they cleaned up well. I replaced the rubber plugs. Years later I replaced ALL of the rubber parts I didn’t know I needed to replace back in 1999 Is that a 550 Katana?

Why do you have to put them on? Is it an inspection thing? If so can you just put them on over the plate with longer bolts and pass it as stock and have it non functioning? I have the later PDF units and gutted them when I did the cartridge emulator upgrade. They are there, but do nothing but keep oil in the forks now.

Looks great.

The 1150 has metal inserts pressed into the inside trim piece.

Not all of us at GSR are anti moddding...

I was thinking starter O ring as well. Possibly damaged on install, or incorrect one?

Well done. That a cool cycle.

.....just looked at the pics side by side. Yup, yours is different. My parts bike ES also has the same as what I posted.

Yours looks pretty similar though. The non faired bikes had the mirror boss.

From my US spec 1150es. Original, no mirror boss for the es.

Nice score.

This shall be a hoot to watch. Subscribed.

I'm geek with a factory service manual...... it states to check it with the engine warm, one minute after shutdown. (1150 manual)

Understood. Kinda like a stone in one's shoe.

Earplugs......

The original regulator rectifier sends unused / excess power back to the stator which will cause it to run hotter, and can lead to its failure. Running with the light on will use some of that power. At a minimum its good practice to inspect / clean all wiring connections. Bad connections will run hot and can melt plugs, etc. There are volumes of info on the subject over at GS Resourses.

Is that one of the engines that suffers from cam walk (side to side play)? Never owned a 2 valver, but I’ve heard of the issue on several ocassions. One of its hallmark indicators are that when the bike is tilted, as on the side stand in your case, it goes away. I’ve read that flipping the half moons on the valvecover gasket takes up the slack and stops it. Again, no personal experience, just passing along what I’ve read.

Black wheel fan here as well. Different machine and different shades of blue, but my blue / white 1150 has black wheels.

I had the exact opposite problem. Brake light wouldn't come on. Eventually found broken wires inside the wire insulation. http://20170826_001209