EvilElsie

That welded boss looks strong enough to pick the bike up with.... - very neat to. 'simple' and 'cheap' are two of my favourite words. If we add the fact that my daughter is a Sheet Metal Worker at a local Submarine building facility and has access to Rivnuts and a battery powered Rivnut gun then I think we have a winner.... You can't get much simpler or cheaper than getting somebody else to do it for free....... Cheers, Dave.

There's some food for thought Gents - thank you. The very bottom photo is the same as mine (apart from the lengthened Chain adjuster slots). I really like the 'neatness' of the rivnutted, direct to brace approach as used by Cockney Rick - looks good fella... On the other hand, although the welded lug doesn't look as nice you can barely see it with a bobbin screwed home (that's a cool shed Clivegto). I have used 'cupped' paddock stands in the past and i'm not too keen. I'm going to wait until the weekend and go out to the garage with some strong booze, a cigar and stare at the bike until I've made a decision... Many thanks all....

O'reet..?? We're lucky enough to have a 'Deep braced JMC swinging arm' and I want to fit some Paddock stand bobbins (actually, what I want is one of those fancy Abba Sky lift things but....). Yes, I could drill and tap a couple of Lugs and ask my mate to weld them on or could I drill and tap the bracing loop directly..?? Can anyone tell me the wall thickness..?? I would really prefer NOT to do either of the above and do something that isn't permanent - maybe clamp on somehow. Has anyone been through this before and can shed any light on it for me...?? Cheers, Dave.

Of course - I really should have thought about it before I posted . Thank you for the explanation though.... I do have a new question that might not be as stooped - off to start a new thread.....

Hello, Clockwise or Anticlockwise...?? My guess is Clockwise but the nice diagram above shows otherwise..... Cheers, Dave

Funnily enough it did cross my mind that '....it's odd, I would expect to have no brake light at all if something isn't right. It must be some kind of new safety feature...' (although its a 1990 1100L it's my most modern vehicle...). You live an learn...

Wise words indeed.... It's odd - if making a 'silly' mistake while working on my 4 wheeled device or even the dreaded DIY I would have an 'Incredible Hulk' moment - completely see my arse..... If I make a silly mistake (like either of the examples above) working on my bikes I snigger like Muttley, call myself a 'Goofball' (or something equally lame) and carry on.

How-doo..?? Wrists can't cope with Clip-ons anymore so I fitted Risers and bought some rather lovely Renthal Flat bars. The OE brake and clutch M/C's fouled the fork tops...... bugger.!! Bought some rather nice, used Nissin Radial M/C's - 1000K5 brake M/C and an Erik Buell Racing (?) clutch M/C (it matches the brake one). Brake hoses are now too short - got some more made-up 100mm longer. Everything bled-up nicely. The Sun was shining so I got ready for the first 'run about' in a couple of months. Turned the Key in the ignition and the brake light came on. 'No problem' I thought and swapped the wires over on the 'new to me' front brake light switch and.... the brake light stayed on. Pulled the wires off again to remove the switch from the M/C and one of the wires pulled out of the crimp. 'A-Ha..!! That's the culprit...' Recrimped wire, switch soaked with WD40 then checked on Multimeter - open and closed circuit - all correct. Refitted, ignition on.....brake light on. Quite annoyed now. Sunshine now gone. I then had a 'Eureka moment' and waggled the rear brake light switch and the fuckin' brake light went out.... Had a chuckle, helmet on and out we went - it was good and all is right with the world again...... Cheers, Dave.