johnr

cma arent magnesium, theyre just cast ally, they were aftermarket wheels from the period, ever so slightly lighter than stock, but not fussy and delicate like magnesium. ive got a spare 18 inch rear that i might sell if you want it. i will try and find a pic

have you not considered some cma's they look pretty similar to the dymags but as a fraction of the price.

yes, we all have private roads in the magical land of narnia accessed via the back of the wardrobe in the spare room....... doesnt everyone?

if its been stood then theres a chance the rings may be stuck, or the valve seats need lapping. as has been said, an italian tune (i like that term) may well shake it from its torpor. get it nice and hot with some fresh oil in it and the compression may well improve. aside from that valve seals being fooked wont affect compression, and i assume youve checked the valve clearances. have you checked the engine breather to see if its blowing fumes out.

strut it, if it aint rigid, it aint hard...... lol

unfortunately, these in particular. of all the gs and gsx variants, these twin choke carbs from the 16 valve gsx550 are renowned for being a royal pain in the arse to get right, theyre full of seals and o rings and have a history of going off very quicky, as has been said, when theyre right, theyre pretty sweet, but they need to be kept mated to the stock airbox and you need to keep on top of them. not sure how they will react to use with modern unleaded fuels, but as unleaded these days seems to fuck up almost everything it touches, i see no reason how these will be different.

carbs have a bad reputation for being full of things that can go wrong...

so sounds like a gs550 or possibly a gsx550 then?

swingarm looks like a gs1000 arm.

get the sump off before you run it. if water has got in, even if its not damaged the bores, it may well have gone past the rings into the sump. micht be a teaspoon full, might be half a gallon, you wont know if you dont check, and if its sat in the sump at the bottom, theres a possibility, however remote that its dep enough to have lifted the oil above the oil strainer meaning that a startup might suck it through the lubrication system. as i said, this is all highly unlikely, but it is still a possibility.

i suppose if you can be sure that its true, off you go.....

depends on what welder you have. if its not a tig, i wouldnt even consider it....... very specialised field i think,

we aim to please....

well if you insist, a dig in the computer brings this up from when we moved in a few years back. table-check, fish tank-check,,,,,, apology accepted-check.........

750 engine, lets be honest, once youre running an 1100 motor, you either weigh them in or chuck em in the canal, or make them into tables. fishtank is somewhere else now, so the mrs has stuck a lamp on it. still a better use of this motor than slowing down a bike!

meh, its been done. ive had a table made from a kat 750 engine holding up my fish tank for over a decade now!

theres a guy in the katana club fitted a 600 blandit lump into a 550 kat frame, might be worth asking over there if you draw a blank here.

isnt there a difference in the starter clutch or did i imagine that? i know the clutch gear is different.

caculating wheel circumference is as easy as pi,,,,,,,, i'll get my coat...... and chris, no sd 750 and 1100s came with the 16 inch wheel, it was one of them odd 1980s fashion trends like your shellsuit or gaudy annodized allen bolts,,,,, or lairy painted spondon turbos,,,,,,

although slotted sprockets might just have been used to get the timing absolutely bang on perfect.

check the ends of the cams, most tuners will engrave the grind and their initials onto the cam ends, its surprising what you can find when you dont realise what you had!

but remember that the later sd model kats came with 16 inch front wheels, and used the same clocks as the ones with 19 inch wheels meaning that the difference must have been in the speedo drives, i reccon a 16 inch wheel with the fat tyre that the kat came with would have the same rolling diamiter as a modern 17 inch with a lower profile rubber.

no they wont. the sz kat has rubber pegs, the sd models have the ally peg with the rubber top, the two arent interchangeable, at least the pillion ones arent. the riders pegs should be ok if you change them complete with the mounting brackets. but the fittings on the pegs are different between the two so strangely they arent interchangable. its one of the few physical differences between the kat frames.

aye but there are 180's and there are 180s! i used a zzr600 rim with metz rennsport tyre, sticky as fook but short life, but i bought them part used from a roundy roundy racer with one meeting on them for 25 quid apiece so wasnt too concerned. i used zzr600 wheels, the rear i used the suzuki spindle and got new bearings to fit the suzuki spindle into the kawasaki hub, the bearing in the cush drive i left as it was a huge thing with a top hat spacer in it which i just drilled out to take the suzuki spindle, other than a couple of spacers and drilling out the kawasaki caliper hanger to fit the suzuki spindle it all went in ok. i got a new rear sprocket (530 pitch iirc) that had a lip on it fitting thislet me move the rer sprocket in about 2mm, at the front i ground the teeth and about 10mm off a worn out original 630 pitch sprocket, leaving me a splined spacer, i then used this to space out the front sprocket enough to line up the chain run. i actually welded it to a new 530 front giving me a much wider contact on the splined shaft and it all lined up. no tyre clearance or chain clearance issues. i will look for some pics though im not sure if i still have them.

i ran a 180 on the back of mine on a kawasaki zzr rim, no clearance issues.