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Rijko

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  1. i know, those slabby carbs are expensive. Very. As are the Mikuni 29 smoothbores that were/are a very popular upgrade ...
  2. Wraith, there are 2 different GS1000 heads : 1 with small inlets for the VM slide carbs, and one with bigger inlets for the BS CV carbs. I do not have personal experience myself with the different alternative carb sets but carb spacing wil probably be different. Some carb sets you can change the location of the carbs without too much trouble but others require much work including linkage adjustments. I think the early slabby carbs fit on the old model head in combination with Kwak Z900 inlet rubbers. I have not heard of bolt-on replacements for either model head - other than the expensive Keihin CR/Mikuni RS carb sets.
  3. From the picture you posted it looks like you have a super paintjob on yours.
  4. Brembo used to make a really good brake pad, now discontinued. I like those best, never had other pads that good. NOS original ones come second for me.
  5. No argument there buddy. Just offering experience. Um, you don't expect an answer to a retorical question i hope
  6. 3 Ohm coils are fine to use with contact points. The green 3 Ohm Dyna coils for instance have been in use for many years with points, replacing the higher resistance OEM coils. Note : Dyna recommends a ballast resistor when using them with points and they do get warm. But many people have used them without the resistor for many years (including me) The 3 Ohm mini coils get real hot : those will fail especially when not cooled.
  7. exactly. I guess John his first statement is a bit misleading - it feels like he verified the correct parts based on the pictures. Guess he was trying to be helpful ? Must have been quite a job fitting that GS1000G tank on a chain frame Wraith.
  8. Impressive looking document * bullet nr. 1 in the John Carr document : In 4 decades everything from wheels to tank and engine etc could have been changed. But if judging by pictures BigT is right - those parts are not 1978. * bullet nr. 2 in the John Carr document : I would be interested in what John Carr means by "the official Suzuki engine and frame number charts". The only Suzuki charts i am aware of are in Suzuki service bulletins. Check the attachments, these show the chassis cannot be a 1978 - same for the engine. * bullet nr. 3 in the John Carr document : Without better info on the resources used, i cannot really comment. John does not mention correct parts : he only states the frame number is one that was manufactured in 1978 which is probably true. The model is a 1979, manufacturing of those started in 1978.
  9. LOL autocorrect works funny on you G I X E R .... if i type "C o r r e c t G i x e r" without the spaces i get this after submit : Correct say what now!?
  10. Correct Agreed on the complexity and cost of replacing wiring (and handlebar switches, contact, R/R, all that has old wiring or connectors). Too bad new looms are rare as hen's teeth. So for most, the only option will be to repair/recondition the existing stuff best they can, or have it done. BTW, on GSR is a member that buys, tests, and sells 2nd hand series SH-775 R/R quite cheap.
  11. oh .. that leads to the 'coil relay mod'. Basically in the situation you measure low voltage on your coils, always due to bad connections, you can use a relais to work off that bad low-voltage connection. The relais taps fresh 12V off the battery and feeds it to the coils. While some have reported no further issues, imho it's a bad approach : it's ignoring a wiring loom that has issues. A quick, short-term-effective, but bad workaround for a bigger problem - all it does is allow the underlying issue to grow until some other component dies. Measure voltage, resistance, and meticulously clean each connection in the wiring loom is the only way to solve this. My opinion, don't shoot me guys
  12. Just for giggles, measure the voltage on your coils, or on the (usually) green/yellow wire that activates the starter relais. Or any other easily accessible 12V wire on the bike. 99,9% chance you'll be surprised by the voltage on the battery compared to what you measure there. Hence my 'missing volts' remark. Lower voltage means bad connections ; which in turn means higher than designed amperage and heat in those wires. The transparent bullet connector cover turned brown is also a good indicator for a bad connection generating heat.
  13. Oversimplified, but : the older GS bikes had a separate rectifier and regulator, later (1980+) ones were combined R/R. Both had the same disadvantage : simply put the stator has to deliver max capacity. The power generated goes into the R/R, powers the bike, but with the battery fully charged the surplus has to go somewhere. This surplus turns into heat and taxes the stator, regulator and rectifier heavily. (the wiring loom with corroded connections everywhere and corrosion in handlebar switches etc make this issue even bigger)) Topping off the oil to max at least helps the stator get rid of some heat. Driving with the 50W headlamp and smaller rear light consumes some of the amps and relieves some heat stress on these parts. The Shindengen SH-775 R/R, CompuFire and alike work on a different principle, it asks for what it needs, no more. That is much easier on those components.
  14. Why would you want to upgrade ? If the reason is to escape fried igniter ("CDI"), stator, regulator and rectifier : if wiring loom is OK (hardly any is, after decades of neglect and corrosion. Measure and be shocked about 'missing volts'), and engine oil level is topped off religiously, the oldfashioned original system will work fine. In that case, use as much power as possible while riding : always use the headlight, do not upgrade to LED. A popular upgrade is to replace the R/R ( most use the SH-775 ) which works very different so components are less stressed. See TGSR-Stator Papers (thegsresources.com) Many threads on GSR on this well-known issue.
  15. Use GS750 oil pump gears ... oldskool trick and way cheaper. Plug and play, no mods needed.
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