canamant

Anyone going to Aintree. I'll have Scabby Racer 1 and Scabby Racer 2 out and probably the SV as well.

Not sure that the spindle would go that far forward without running into problems - like chain adjuster thread for a start. It would also cause the caliper to sit at an odd angle on the disc. It looks like they have even taken the trouble to replicate the adjuster marks too. Most odd.

If you are using an 1100 motor in the 1100 frame then some 750 pipes will be too short and foul the sump.

You must have a short somewhere. Was the ign on when it started smoking ? First thing I'd look at is anything on the circuit that the cooked fuse powers. Look for frayed insulation or signs of burning/smell etc. A good multimeter will help.

Is that the original 34mm CVs or original 1127 CVs Mark ?

I sltted the back plate on both of the Scabby Racers to give about 4 degrees. Can't say it helped the top end but it certainly crisped up the bottom end and midrange.

That rear disc would probably over heat.

This happened to me once. I used to have a 5p piece in the front m/cyl on Scabby Racer 1 to get the piston closer to the bleed hole to the reservoir to reduce dead travel on the ever. When I changed the lever it must have been slightly different on the pivot and it just came on progressively when I was racing. I pulled to the side of teh track and handed it to the marshals who stood there scratching their heads. No way was I going to try and make the grass and go for a face plant.

No. The bodies are OK. Take the face plates off the carbs and get them turned in a lathe to make the hole 33mm. he new hole will be concentric with the bellmouth so the lathe will remove 4mm from the top and nothing from the bottom. Trust me it works perfectly. You will need anti-tamper 6 point torques/star driver to get the face plates off. Float bowl off, accelerator pump nozzles out, carb tops off and throttle shaft /slide screws removed to get face plate off. Take you an hour or so. Ant

If te condensor is knackered and passing current then the coil controlled by that points/condensor pair will have a permanent feed and will get hot and break down.

Cross plane crank. It will sound like a Yamaha.

If you want to keep the airbox then the 34mm standard carbs would be a good start. The 36mm ones from later models might go. If the airbox is going then perhaps 36 or 38mm RS Mikunis but they might be a bit of a handful if you are not racing but using it on the road. As for power, who knows. Depends on the cam profile, the cam timing, and most of all what you want to use it for. For road use I'd go for a good flat torque curve and perhaps squander some potential top end that you could only actually use when you'd gone beyond the point where they throw the key away if you get caught. You know my 860 only had the standard 750 slabby cams and bored to 33mm VM29s on it plus I very lightlly cleanerd up the ports. It was making 108bhp at 10,400rpm and 58lbft at 8,400with over 55lbft from 6500 to 10500. Then I made a change to the cam timing and immediately knocked 1.25 seconds off my best lap time (1:04.25 to 1:03.0) so I'd guess it ended up at maybe 110 to 112 bhp. Who knows what the 1052 will make maybe 135 - 140bhp and 70 to 75lbft. But don't get tied up on the numbers, see what it feels like. I know a lad that builds very successful GSXR race bikes who has never had them anywhere near a dynamometer. He just goes by feel.

Use the YJ tool. Leave the head on. I'd never take the head off a road bike unless I really had to.

Slabby Primary gears are straight cut. Only helical is 1127F Powerscreen. Keep on forgewtting that some people use 1127Fs. You are stuck using a 750J/K or a a 750F or a 750L/M box. One of the engines (might even be a 600 bandit >) has a shorter primary shaft. If I was putting a 6 speed box in an 1127 I'd just buy a scrapper 750 and see what fitted. Slabby Race r 1 (750) has a 750M bos and clutch and I had to make clutch release parts myself to make it all work but it was a simple job.

First check inlet valve clearance - make sure there is some .

Think that is standard for twin pipe motors. The pipes go either side of the "barrel"

Slabby 750 gearbox won't go unless you want to use the slabby clutch because the primary gear shaft and clutch splines are different to all the other oil boilers. I'd go for a J/K box because the bottom ends are the same. Also check the primary shaft. If it's solid and you need it hollow you'll have to get it machined out and you might also need to make a new push rod or push mushroom.

Slabby Racer 1 made 100.25 RWBHP at 11.150rpm on open 33m Flat slides and a Motad Nexus headers, homemade link and unknown silencer. Torque 50.25lb ft at 9250rpm. Another engine I built to 860 wit the same pipe and carbs made 58lbft at 8000rpm and we stopped it at 10,000rpm where it made 108bhp. Stopped it because the pistons were heavier than standard ane we couldn't be sure of the rods' history. Now it has been revved to 11k without falling off the power. It has also had a cam timing change which gave it a noticeable kick up the bum and knocked 1.25 seconds off its previous best 860 lap at Aintree. Backside dyno says plenty more than 108bhp now. I'd estimate somewhere betwneen 115 - 120bhp. Must get it checked.

All the single lobe cams will go but ust slinging lumpier cams in won't necessarily make it produce more torque and power or run better or be more driveable. Think about what you want out of the engine. I've had my fingers inside the 750s for a few years now and got decent power out of them with the standard slabby cams. It takes quite a bit of work to produce cam graphs, valve to piston graphs, choke/port/valve area ratios, then determine the best cam timing within the limits of valve piston clearances etc. I found that the standard cams were perfectly matched to the engine when the timings were set up correctly. Not necessarily where the timing marks say. In my experience slabby 750 cams were perfect for the 750 and for bigger engines too, providing the whole thing matches from bellmouth to exhaust. Might not be what you wanted to hear as it takes massses of time to get the set up, but it is the only way to be sure you have got the best set up that you can.

If the port spacing is the same I don't see why they wouldn't run OK jetted correctly. Remember the "Supertune" article years ago ? Was it Specials of Glasgow who said they had fitted them to GS750s ?

Don't get me going about freebies being sold on. Hope their knobs rot off.

Got one of them myself too. Junior trained on it before doing his A2 on a school bike. Bodywork available new at ridiculously cheap prices at patternparts.net.

It's just a roadbike. Nowt special yet. Wait 20 or 30 years though and old farts will be going all misty eyed over them.

38mm CVs ? Does it run OK at the moment ? Running 33mm flatties on Slabby Racer 1 and Slabby Racer 2 with 140 and 145 jets. No filters and Micron 4-2-1 and Nexxus 4-2-1 front pipe and unknown silencer. Nexxus and unknown silencer much better set up. I'd say the carbs were a touch too big. Done some calcs toight for my own bikes and 33mm choke is perfect for a 750 at 13k rpm which a slabby won't go yo.