Upshotknothole
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Posts posted by Upshotknothole
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I'd say go with the 41s and accept that it's going to be boring around town if you take it out. The 39s will probably give you a little bit more usable real world power, but the 41s will force you to keep it up in the power band more. That just sounds like it'd be more fun to ride, but I like peaky bikes.
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Hindle is the only one making them anymore for slingshot 750s. I have a US 92 750, same as yours. Came with a Yosh system with a stupidly short chopped down muffler. Ended up running an 1100 and a 1200 exhaust on it for awhile until I finally found a proper Yosh muffler to replace it. Had to buy a 95 750w parts bike to get the muffler. If you already have the 907 kit, maybe go with a full Hindle, or consider an 1100 exhaust for the larger headers.
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Pan looks similar in shape to GSXR 1100s with stock dual exhausts, I'd think any of those would fit.
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2 minutes ago, DAZ said:
Hi Mutley ,welcome aboard if you are buying your rs carbs new then have a look @Dezzasticky about inlet rubbers as it says 34/36/38 rs carbs all share the same size 42mm stub so if you've not bought them yet 38s maybe better suited to your 1100 n motor .....
I run 38s on my 7/11 and they move the power pretty high up in the revs. Makes for a really boring bike in town(unless you're speeding everywhere), with the taller 5 speed gearing, and the peaky power. For a general all around bike that keeps good mid range, 36s tend to be better.
I've used Motion Pro throttles in the past with RS carbs, in Europe Domino is probably easier to get. You'll probably need custom cables made, though looking at your bike more, GSXR throttle cables might be about the right length.
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I usually try and stick with OEM vacuum lines as there's not a ton of vacuum coming off the intake to open up the petcock. Glad you got it sorted.
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30 minutes ago, Digs said:
That's a good shout, either way I want enough fuel flow at low fuel levels so that I can at least limp it to a petrol station if needs be.
So the hoses are 8mm ID and less than a week old so they shouldn't be an issue.
I have found a few things that seem to have mostly resolved the problem:
- Shorter vac line with a slightly smaller ID
- Different routing of the fuel lines (not sure really if that has made much of a difference)
- fully charged battery, the CDI doesn't like to spark with a low battery
With as tight as everything is between the tank and the carbs on these bikes, fuel line routing is very important. It's super easy to pinch a fuel line when putting the tank back on. Clear fuel line makes it a lot easier to troubleshoot, at the very least some clear fuel filters will help you see what's going on.
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59 minutes ago, gsxwill said:
Probably to simple but often gets overlooked but is your tank venting OK seems strange that all your taps are failing at the same time but runs OK on auxiliary tank
What they said, try running it with the fuel cap open. Or at least checking the flow with the cap open.
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I bought a hacked up GSXR 1100 off some kids years ago because they swapped the tank and petcock and used tiny diameter vent hose for the fuel line. Idled and rode at low rpm fine, but would starve as soon as you opened it up. How are you hooking up the external fuel tank to the carbs?
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1 minute ago, Digs said:
I did try that initially, it idles fine, just doesn’t rev out properly. I’ve only had 1-2l in the tank as I keep draining it to swap taps so potentially that’s an/the issue? Just seems odd when it runs so well on a gravity fed aux tank.
Make sure the lines aren't getting pinched under the tank when it's back on? Don't need much fuel in the tank to rev it in the garage.
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Just now, Digs said:
Should say I also robbed the tap of my 750wp and had the same issue with fuel starvation. I also tried a bit of reinforced fuel injection line off my Daytona which improved the vacuum, but still not spot on with any of the now four taps.
It shouldn't take much in the way of vacuum to open up the tap at all. Bit of hose on it and you should be able to just suck on it and it will open up.
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6 hours ago, Digs said:
Makes sense, I think I might make up and adapter plate and single inline tap for now as it runs fine from the auxiliary tank on a single tap. Or I could strip out the gubbins from the oem tap and add an inline tap on each line.
Pingle sounds like the long term solution though! Just stupid money for a tap! I can buy an rf900 engine for the price.
If you ever swap out the BST38s with big flat slides(RS38-40, FCR39-41), you'll be more inclined to spend the money on the pingel as they flow way more fuel than the stock tap. I'm currently running a cheap aftermarket petcock on my 750 with BST38s and it's fine for them. You can find them on Eblag, but it's damn near impossible to switch that thing from On to Res while riding, so it lives on Res. One of these days I'll swap a stock one back in there.
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Open up the petcocks and check the diaphragms. Stock petcock should be fine with BST38s. May be able to rebuild one good petcock out of the two, I've never really heard anything good regarding the aftermarket rebuild kits. Other option is to stick a pingel on it, just gotta make sure to turn it off. I'd suggest double checking the vacuum line, but if they're barely flowing on prime, they're clogged up internally.
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27 minutes ago, FB33 said:
It'll get loads of street time once it's built. I'm chopper Club, so thousands of miles per year in all weather, no excuses.
Cool, a 600 cooler is probably gonna be the absolute minimum then. Maybe a B12 cooler if you're trying to keep costs down and keep it stock. My stock GSXR 750 slingshot gets really hot and smelly on hot days sitting in traffic, and that's with the giant curved oil cooler that it came with. On a naked build the B12 cooler or similar size should be fine.
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How much street time does the bike actually get? If you just want it for at the strip, stick a teapot or b6 cooler on it, they're both pretty small and with a little creativity could probably be ran vertical down the front frame tube.
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25 minutes ago, FB33 said:
I've been trying to find out about the choke and throttle. It looks like you only fit one throttle cable to the carbs but some people have said it has 2 ?
Also I've been told it uses a choke lever on the bars, but there appears to be a pull out choke knob fitted to the carbs already?
Lastly, apart from the two fuel inlets, what are all the other pipes and outlets and stuff on the carb for?
The Mikuni CV carbs only need one throttle cable, and usually only have a mount for one, like yours appear to have.
The stock carbs did use a lever and cable for the choke. Pretty sure you can swap them to a side pull, or they might be off something else, but oil cooled carbs are fairly interchangeable.
Other than the two fuel lines going into the bottom, everything else is vents and emissions crap. They like to have some amount of hose on them, but can be vented to atmosphere or ran through a small filter.
Someone with more experience with the powerscreens will come along and know if those are the right carbs or not.
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Here’s the stock 750 bars, and they’re pretty tight clearance wise between the fairing and the side of the engine.
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Suzuki used two slave cylinders on lots of bikes for years, the rebuild kits are only about $20 here in the states from All Balls. Probably the best bet. Here are what they fit and photos of the parts.
One fits the following bikes (allegedly)
Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Clutch Suzuki GSF1200 Bandit 01-05, GSX1100F 88-93, GSXR1300R Hayabusa 99-01, GSXR750 86-87
And the other fits these bikes.
Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Clutch Suzuki GSF1200 Bandit 97-00, GSX1100G 91-93, GSXR1100 86-98, GSXR1300R Hayabusa 02-03, RF900R 94-97
All of mine are currently in complete systems, so can't really get a view of the piston to compare to yours. Maybe contact All Balls or someone else that makes the rebuild kits?
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They're not great, and the stock bars are mounted off the front of the forks, giving a little bit more clearance to the side of the bike at full lock. You get used to turning the bike on the kickstand.
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1 minute ago, TheAlchemist said:
I dont have a clue, only the piston size I can go on. The only thing I know for sure is the 34 one is for the TLR all years.
Hoping to find someone with one on a shelf that can check and let me know. Maybe GSXR1000?
Many thanks,
Andy
Post up some photos of it. That should at least help with guessing what bike it came off of. I've got slaves off of 1127 engines and an early 00s bandit in the garage. It's probably the same as one of those if it came off an oil cooled bike other than a slabbie. The second gen bandits, early busas, first gen GSXR 750s, and powerscreen 1100s all share the same clutch cylinder, so it's likely that or the one that came on the oil and water cooled GSXR 1100s, and the RF900s.
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On 7/2/2023 at 11:31 AM, TheAlchemist said:
Thanks for the reply, any chance of narrowing it down?
Andy
They used the same slave cylinders on both, as well as a bunch of other bikes. Really depends on what year it came off of.
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Either of those will fit, might need to swap the oil pan and oil pickup as well if the exhaust fouls on the bottom of the pan. 750 exhausts might also hang a little low, but shouldn't be too much of an issue.
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Welcome, and first off, those are slingshot wheels that you have in your slabbie, so they're not going to be a direct match to the manual. Slingshots do have the brake mount up against the swing arm, with a small spacer between the mount and the wheel. Look up the info for an 88/89 750 and that should help.
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7 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Oh well, wrong about the tool (must have been some other engine LOL) but i'm guessing the Suzuki manual assumes you have a full shim kit with every size available beside you, for a one out / one in procedure. Nice if you have - but if you haven't, you are sort of back to the cam out method!
Of course, 336 shims available for a valve job!
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This is from the slingshot 750 shop manual, so disregard the clearances if they’re different from the 1100s. Suzuki only says to use a suitable tool to push the rocker out of the way. No mention of any factory tool or anything.
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Looking for crash bars for a 91 gsxr750
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Look for Bandit ones and make them fit, you can find ones that mount between the front and bottom engine mounts. Anything beyond that will have to be custom.