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Upshotknothole

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Posts posted by Upshotknothole

  1. 3 minutes ago, Jdeac said:

    Don't suppose you have one from an 1100 do you

    Nope, I've only got two of the 750 ones, and they're both currently in bikes to keep them rollers. I've seen the braced 750 swing arms go cheap on Eblag from time to time, but seems like all the 1100W stuff is going for stupid money now.

  2. 1 hour ago, KennyKak said:

    I messaged danm54 a week or so ago but he hasn't seen or responded yet unfortunately 

    Maybe if enough of us show interest he might do another batch of them. I wouldn't mind having one in case I should decide to go that route with another build in the future. I still have a couple 95 GSXR 750w braced swing arms that are an easier swap, but they're getting harder to find and don't really look as nice as the newer stuff in some builds.

  3. If you search, someone on here was selling lower bolt on brackets for fitting busa arms, they work with the K arms as well. Measurements should still be on here too. They bolt to where the exhaust hanger attaches to the frame below where the stock linkage attaches.

  4. Different tooth count between the 1127s and 1200s. Gotta swap the gear, which is a pain, or any of the 1200s will fit, they're all interchangeable. Don't try and start it with that GSXR one in there, you'll lose teeth.

    • Like 1
  5. You don't get bragging rights at the pub for easy mods. I've had a bike with a stock SSSA and they're great for working on, look amazing, easy to clean the wheel etc, but I believe Triumph listed a 40+ lbs difference between the SSSA and the conventional the one time they offered a choice. These days I'd rather go for the weight savings and easier mods, but they do still look good.

  6. 6 hours ago, Digs said:

    There’s a bit of ‘works well enough for me’ with the k series swap. In my view you need to actually do some work: cad, spreadsheet or pen and paper to make sure whatever you setup has a proper motion ratio and can transfer the loads properly. Moving the lower mount down and closer to the original k series geometry is a good idea, as is spacing the top mount out. It’s not the only way to do it, but it is a good way. 

     

    The shop that did mine had a computrac system and did all the measurements and calculations. My 89 7/11 is almost identical to a mid 00's 750 as far as geometry goes, the wheel base is only like I think 20mm longer. Handles great, but definitely sits higher than a stock slingshot 750.

    image.thumb.jpeg.683574460694f9e06eee80522a8670a4.jpeg

    • Like 1
  7. Some of the rear wheels can be swapped between the different swing arms, but you have to swap the hole hub assembly. Had an old friend that did it with a fireblade, but I can't remember what swing arm he had or what he stuck into it, because it was a fireblade and I just didn't care.

    I think I've seen S3 swing arms modified in old street fighter magazines, they had to be machined down, new end plates made up. Out of all of the SSSAs, the Triumph ones have always been the hardest to use with anything else because they're just so damn wide.

    There are some on Eblag here in the states for K series 1000s, but they all want stupid money for them.

    Eblag swing arm

  8. 1 minute ago, Basel said:

    Thanks for the input, it gives me different steps, if one doesn’t work move onto the next till I get to drilling a  head off. 

    Yeah, the JIS bits aren't magical or anything, but they're a hell of a lot more effective than a normal phillips bit on stubborn screws. Biggest difference is they're a lot less likely to immediately strip the screw head and require drilling or notching. Good luck.

    • Like 2
  9. The online parts distributor I use here in the states currently lists slingshot 750 emulsion tubes as unavailable, which kinda sucks as they’re a wear item. My 750 currently has a dynojet kit in them with worn out emulsion tubes, but I want to swap them back to Factory Pro, and I just happened to come across these on Eblag. $40 shipped! Looks like I’ll be rejetting my carbs over the winter now. It’s nice to find cheap parts once in awhile when everyone else is constantly trying to charge a premium for slingshot parts now. 

     

    IMG_2456.thumb.jpeg.b96c32970043d58ee67cdcbc1c9c86ab.jpeg

    • Like 4
  10. 6 minutes ago, Qwik said:

    At the moment I am. But that may have to be upgraded. At least a set of heavier springs and i’m thinking about upgrading both (clutch and brake)master cylinders to Brembos 

    You can run heavier springs, but stick with OEM frictions and steels. None of the aftermarket clutches compare to OEM. Brembo master with braided lines is always a nice upgrade for the brakes.

    For the clutch, search on here, there's one specific Brembo M/C that works best with the oil cooled clutches, but I can never remember which one it is.

    • Like 1
  11. Get an impact driver with JIS bits. Regular phillips bits slip out of Japanese screws. You can replace all of them with allen head screws when you rebuild it, but anything on a Suzuki that looks like a phillips is actually a JIS screw and really needs the correct driver. The intake boots take a JIS #3 bit, carbs are a mix of JIS #1 and #2.

    • Like 5
  12. 4 hours ago, Qwik said:

    The Holeshot kit is 10.8-1 (stock is 9.5-1) so I’m assuming 91octane vs the 87 they call for now. I run nonethanol that only comes in 91 octane. So that’s a non-issue anyway. 

    It'll be fine with that gas. Are you running a stock clutch with your setup?

  13. 36 minutes ago, wraith said:

    Don't know about bandit engines not being hammered as much as gsxr engines, the b12 was the bike to Streetfighter and Wheely everywhere at one point because they where easier to find and cheeper then a gsxr1100 MK1 more than the MK2. 

    Here in the states, at least on the west coast where I’ve always lived, the bandits were more of an old man/touring bike, and everything with a full fairing got ridden into the ground. Most people here still think street fighters are crashed sports bikes that you didn’t have the money to repair. If you wanted to look cool when you pulled up to the coffee shop, you needed something with a fairing, and ideally a matching jacket and helmet. The US also doesn’t give a damn if you’re 16 and want to buy a liter bike or a busa for your first motorcycle to learn on, helps keep the used sports bike parts cheap. 

    The other thing that we don’t have here is anything even close to MOT. Want to register a motorcycle? All you need to do is let them verify the VIN and it should have lights on it, but they don’t give a damn about making sure it’s safe for the road…and I’ve seen so many bikes over the years that should not have been on the road. So that sports bike that won’t pass MOT over there and gets sold off as a project, will get ridden for a few more years here until it’s really destroyed. 

    • Like 2
  14. They keep getting brought up in the threads here, so definitely keep an eye out for a GSX1100F(power screen or in the states "katana", but they weren't really a katana) engine or complete bike if you can find one for a good price. They were the best sport touring engine out of all the oil cooled lumps. Otherwise bandit engines as they're newer and usually don't get hammered on quite as hard as the GSXRs.

  15. Holeshot and APE have both been doing it for a long time. Holeshot probably has more experience with the bandits and doing mild street tunes on them. Give Holeshot a call first and see what they recommend, APE is good for machine work and any parts that Holeshot doesn't stock. I agree with DAZ, stay away from doing a crazy high compression build. Nothing wrong with going with forged pistons, but use a base gasket to keep the compression reasonable for using pump gas.

    Years ago a took a friend's bandit with a 1216 kit from Dale Walker for a test ride, big bore, lumpy cams, exhaust, and jet kit. Tons of mid range power, and a nice lumpy idle like an old muscle car.

  16. Bandit engines are typically cheaper and easier to find. I'd stick with the bandit, and as I assume this will be a winter project, and you already ordered some extra parts for your blown engine, do a 1216 kit. You're in the states, so Holeshot parts will be easy to get, and there's APE for anything else. Maybe some mild cams on top of the big bore to wake it up a little, but nothing crazy to help keep all that mid range power that you're after for the side hack.

    • Like 1
  17. Folks have posted up the measurements for engine stands on here in the past. They also pop up on Eblag, but mostly in the UK. Don't think I've ever seen any on there that have been here in the states. Good luck on the rebuild, can you tell where the oil is coming out?

    • Like 1
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