Upshotknothole
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Posts posted by Upshotknothole
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2 hours ago, Dezza said:
You may have to move the throttle cable bracket to the end of the carb bank as it might foul the tank base. The DOT head raises and changes the angle the carbs sit. You have an 1100 frame though, which is a plus here.
Using RS38s, and easy enough to move the throttle bracket if needed. Also easy enough to raise the rear of the tank a little if I have to.
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3 hours ago, clivegto said:
Be a good idea to fit new O rings to the head as well.
Oh yeah, I'd forgotten about the o-rings in the head gasket. I want the bandit ones and not the 750 ones, right?
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Got a pile of parts in the garage that I want to turn back into a daily/beater/commuter for now. Tired of putting miles on the nicer bikes, but I also want to make it fun.
What parts do I need to swap a dot head onto a bandit? I’d like to get everything in advance so I don’t spend too much time waiting on parts when I decide to build it.
Head gasket
Oil return o-rings
Anything else? Plans are to swap the head, stick the engine into an old 1100 slingshot frame, already has a braced 750w swing arm to help keep the front light. Not sure which front end I’ll use yet. Got a spare set of RS38s and a full Yosh 1200 exhaust.
Here’s how it currently sits. Ignore that dumb W in the background.
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The drive gears on the 600s are different, not sure on the Mk1 vs Mk2 1200s.
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What they said about FBM. Really just depends on your budget, and how much HP you want.
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On 6/14/2023 at 2:30 AM, BoostedRooster712 said:
I don't believe I have the provision to shut down the engine with this ECU but I can have an alarm on the dash when the pressure drops below x.
Why not just wire the factory switch up to a brighter bulb on the dash?
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42 minutes ago, george 1100 said:
That's very common. Most looms I've seen have that exact problem in varying degrees of failure
Not the first time I’ve seen them partially melted, just the first time I’ve been stranded by it. I’m gonna try and switch it back to the factory connectors tomorrow, threw a couple wire nuts on it today and already took it for a test ride, seems like nothing else was damaged.
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4 hours ago, johnr said:
check the gsxr charging mod post stickied at the page top. worth doing whilst youre in there!
Maybe the next time I pull it apart for a full service. This is the first real electrical issue I’ve had with this bike, and I daily it right now.
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8 minutes ago, johnr said:
if the wires have melted, how do you know the alternator has failed? surely its more likely that the connections were corroded or dirty causing them to overheat cos of the resistance?
Just making sure I have a spare in case it did fry it. So far it looks like it was just some crappy spade connectors that melted.
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12 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
probably yes, but the gear might be different. It's easily swapped though.
Thanks!
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Out on a ride with friends today and the bike wouldn’t start after we stopped for gas. Bump started it, fired right up and then died again. Popped the seat off and found the alternator wires melted. Oops waiting for a lift home and then replacing some connectors. Check and see if anything else was damaged.
Were the slingshot 748 and 749 alternators interchangeable?
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I've used both Cometic and Vesrah gaskets on GSXRs and other bikes without issue. I also just checked and I can still order cam chains here in the states. All of the oil cooled 1100s used the same cam chain, only the blandits got the weird one. Part number 12760-40C01. Also looks like Suzuki still sells gasket sets for everything oil cooled going back to 1998.
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You want the fork conversion link on the side of their page. These should be the ones you want.
Top 99-3540-5
Bottom 99-3519-5
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Check the archives, it’s all been written up. From what I remember, it bumps the compression up to around 12.5:1, and dot cams will move the power up to the higher end sacrificing some bottom end and mid range torque. Nice upgrade on the bandit engines, the GSXR 1100 shim heads already flow really well, so no real improvement there.
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Seems like Suzuki used the BJX wheels in a lot of bikes, 750w, RF900, blandits. I can't find anything that matches your white BJR wheel. It looks like an SRAD 600 wheel, but those had a different marking. 2000+ GSXR wheels had larger holes in the spokes. I would guess it's off something from the mid 90s, but it's not an SRAD, TL, RF900. Bandit6 has different stamping, and RF600 had curved spokes.
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52 minutes ago, Madb said:
Are you are referring to this white bike? It's not a wn/wp. It's a wr/ws. assuming you are reffering to this bike, then srad and early k1 750 will fit, tho you may need to adjust for wheel fitment/alignment if you use later wheels. From memory I think the wheel spindles are different sizes to your og wheel.
Yeah, you're right it's a WR/WS. I might try going the SRAD route for it. I'll need to measure the spindles on some of my spare wheels to see what I have that might fit. Looking on Eblag the SRAD 750 swing arms don't look to be too expensive. Thanks
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It’s not a 750w. This wheel is from a 95 750w.
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Like everyone else has said, a little grease, a 2x4 or a pry bar of some type, and a lot of swearing. Every set of RS carbs I've owned has been a bitch to install compared to CV carbs.
At this point with Suzuki discontinuing more and more of the stock rubbers and Mikuni RS or TMR carbs being the only aftermarket ones that you can still buy new, it would be really nice if someone would just make rubbers specifically for those carbs.
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Are there any swing arms that are an easy swap into the 750 WN/WP frames? I've got other plans for that braced swing arm and would like to keep this bike a roller until I get around to doing something with it. Do the 1100 swing arms drop in pretty easily? Also wouldn't be opposed to a K series, but it sounds like their pivots are a different size. Thanks
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18 hours ago, Losiu said:
If there was even the beginning of the number, I wouldn't ask the question
The number field is simply empty. A small hole for the starter suggests that it is not 1127. Some 750, or maybe 1052
I’m gonna guess 749 GSXR engine based on the shape around the starter motor. I don’t have any 748 cases at home to compare, but it’s not an 1127. Most of the F and bandit engines were black or silver, so that eliminates 600s. Hope that helps.
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2 hours ago, TonyGee said:
try vacuum balancing
What they said. CVs have to be synced with the bike running. Also they're noisy engines.
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16 hours ago, Losiu said:
Can you tell me what engine it is for? This is a new crankcase to buy for quite decent money.
Unfortunately, the seller does not know the destination. It also has to water cooled (GSXR and RF).
Maybe if you include the serial number and a photo of the other side. It's grey so probably a GSXR engine, but can't tell much beyond that.
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Just out of curiosity I checked my later 749cc GSXR engine and that hole isn’t even there. My 1100s have it, but they must have removed it from the later 750 engines.
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7 minutes ago, rideordive2ss said:
I found a stem mount one I liked thanks all it works very well
Post up a photo of it mounted, curious to see how it looks.
1100M shim adjustment
in Oil Cooled
Posted
I've got a factory manual that I can double check later, but I seem to remember you just push them out of the way. I've also got an 1100m that I need to do the valves on soon, so it'll be good information to have.