Upshotknothole
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Posts posted by Upshotknothole
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I've got a K4 1K swing arm in my slingshot 7/11. The top shock mount is the biggest issue, you'll need to move it up and back to get the linkage working how it's supposed to. I'll see if I can find some photos of how mine is set up. People have also done busa swing arms by lowering the bottom linkage mount.
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Looks good.
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Brembos are good for both, or GSXR masters for the brakes, but watch out for the mid 2Ks, lots of recalls on those. The clutch is a strange ratio and a lot of masters don't work well on it. Forget which ones are supposed to be better. I usually convert them to a cable as I've never liked the feel of hydraulic clutches.
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2 minutes ago, slayer61 said:
This is, no doubt, the very reason that Megacycle don't make cams for these bikes... due to their fragile valve train.
You used to be able to get cams for these heads. More likely the fact that they didn't make that many. Rest of the world got shim head 750s for only 2 years, we got them in the states for 3. The 1127s weren't made with them for very long either. Yet the tappet heads were made from 85-2007 with the bandits and Fs. No one wants to make cams for a 30 year old bike that was only made for about 2 years when they can sell you a conversion kit to run cams for an engine that was made for 22 years.
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9 minutes ago, DAZ said:
Just musing this shim spitting (or not) issue , i was wondering if engines fitted with "uprated" cams are the ones that are prone to losing a shim maybe because of more aggressive (faster) opening and closing ramps causing a loss of contact between follower and shim ?
Without reading any of the articles, just based on my personal experience destroying engines. Hot cams with stock valve springs, and high RPM are a good way to float a valve, and with these shim heads, spit the shim out.
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Well, considering my GSXR 750 is a shim head and the rev limiter on it is 12.5K, and I've hit it plenty of times without spitting a shim, I would imagine that whatever the stock rev limit is for the 1127s is more than safe. I've also got an 1127 shim head with RS38s that's pretty rev happy and I'm sure I've hit the rev limiter on it plenty of times as well. Really sounds like all of the shim spitting was done on poorly set up drag bikes that had nothing to do with real world riding.
Still wish I could get aftermarket cams for my shim heads.
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As others have said, the 750s really need to be opened up to be fun. Though you mentioned yours is a 905 now, so it's not going to be down that much on mid range. You could always look into doing a track day on it, or maybe meet and ride with some locals that are on sports bikes that can offer some pointers. These old race bikes do want you to move your body around on the bike a lot more than the cruisers would ever ask for.
You could also try removing the plastics and clipons and putting some renthals on it for a season and see how you like it. The fairings aren't really doing anything at the speeds you're riding it, and the stock riding position is not comfortable. I've personally always found these bikes to be way more fun in town naked. Or maybe sports bikes just aren't your thing. I've ridden a mates bandit with a 1216 kit and lumpy cams and other than not really being into the riding position on bandits, I could tell that engine would get me into a lot of trouble in town. Plenty of options if you want to stick with the old Suzukis.
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Just takes time to get used to. I've been riding Suzukis with oil cooled engines for the better part of the last 2 decades. Currently daily a 92 750 while getting a 7/11 and 7/12 back on the road. The fairings on the 91/92 do make the bikes easy to get blown around on windy days, you get used to it. A couple of years ago when I'd had my current 750 for less than 6 months, I had it transported down to LA to meet friends, and rode it back to Portland, OR. Other than my body not being used to that riding position for that long, the bike did fine. I trust these old oil cooled engines more than a lot of the newer bikes with reg/rec charging issues. Also mine occasionally sees 130+ MPH up in the mountains and it does fine. The elevation is really the only time that I wish it was fuel injected. As long as your tires and suspension are in good order and properly set up, these bikes love triple digit sweepers.
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13 hours ago, Gsxrsam said:
My 2p worth.
The m/n heads are the best flowing heads of the oil cooled family (according to Rogers flow bench).
So why not get it skimmed a bit and add the yosh stage 1 cams...
Much safer than a smaller chamber that a piston might kiss........(has happened)
Then you can bore barrels for bandit or busa pistons for a cheap big bore.....
Can you still get those cams? I was just looking at the Yosh website and the only 1100s they offer cams for are 89-90, and 93-97. I've got a 7/11 and a 750 that both have shim heads and I'd love to be able to put hotter cams in them. If it wasn't for the M already having the best flowing head, I'd have done a dot head swap to get access to better cams, going to stick it on a bandit engine instead.
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Spacing on the bolts seems to be the same on all of them, but depending on the triple, some need material removed, some need spacers added.
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Nice setup, did you have to figure out a reverse for it or can you still maneuver it around? Got a friend with limited use of his feet, so same thing, rides a bike with a side hack, but had to get something with reverse for parking.
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2 hours ago, Panos said:
I think my shim head GSXR uses the same camchain (plain chain not hyvo) as the dot head so i can use the dot head cam wheels but i will do cam dialing for sure .
I never dialed cams or calculate compression cc's , valve to piston , or squish measure on 4stroke and i'm looking forward in doing all of these this winter .
Carb rubbers im forced to use the shim head ones as i have BST 40mm so maybe thats an issue on the way .
Thank you all for the help guys i will pester you with questions again tomorrow as im getting of work now . Thanks again guys
As said above, you need the 1100 sprockets. 750s are one tooth off from 1100s on cam timing.
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1 minute ago, HamamatsuHarry said:
Thank you .. Is there any advantage th heating any of it ?
Maybe in freezing the tubes with a spray can, but you're not going to get enough heat into the case to make any difference. Spraying some degreaser or penetrating oil might help too. And as previously said, replace the o-rings. They're known to leak if reused.
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This is straight from the factory 1988 750 manual.
so one tooth difference from the 1100.
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53 minutes ago, BoostedRooster712 said:
36mm, same as the other slingshot ones I have here such as the 17D (88-89) 750.
The ones on my US 750N appear to be 39mm, doesn’t really surprise me that the dot era heads had shorter intakes.
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8 minutes ago, BoostedRooster712 said:
36mm, same as the other slingshot ones I have here such as the 17D (88-89) 750.
Cool, thanks.
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14 hours ago, BoostedRooster712 said:
These are perfect for my BST38s, they fit like a finger into a bum.
If you have a chance, could you measure the length of these intakes? They're different part numbers from the standard GSXR intakes, and I'm curious if they're shorter than my stock ones. Thanks
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I've got the factory manual out in the garage, when I go out there later I'll try and get a photo, but should be the same as that.
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1 minute ago, BoostedRooster712 said:
These are perfect for my BST38s, they fit like a finger into a bum.
Nice, I should grab a set for my 750 then.
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14 hours ago, Dezza said:
Anyone know the OEM carbs used for the 750RK? They must have a pretty large spigot size in excess of 42mm. RS40 have 44mm spigots as do BST40 as used on GSXR1100 m,n.
I use the rubbers for the 750l (OEM is BST 38) with RS38s and they fit nicely. I use the (smaller) OEM clamps from a B12 though and have to be careful not to overtighten. They're wider than hose clips, which can easily be overtightened and thus cause the rubbers to crack. When using the correct OEM clip/rubber combo it's impossible to overtighten.
BST40S. The short stroke 750s had BST36s, they went to BST38s in 90. I've got a US 750N with the BST38s and RS carbs fall right out of the intakes. The intakes for the dot heads and first gen 750Fs were the best ones for fitting RS carbs.
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Oh well, thanks for checking.
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16 minutes ago, BoostedRooster712 said:
I'll let you know early next week. They should be here in a few days and I'll try them with my 38s.
Sweet, thanks. I was checking my intakes yesterday and they're all a lot harder than I remember them being the last time I had to force RS carbs into them.
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If these will work with the RS carbs, I'll be ordering a couple sets. Looks like about $300 for two sets with shipping to the states.
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I have RS38s on a stock 1127 engine and it's boring around town, but far from unrideable if you're used to flat slides. Curious what yours puts out if you can get the 39s on it. Are the FCRs still easy to get down there? They're getting harder and harder to find in the states, easier to get RS carbs or order Yosh TMRs from Japan/Europe if you're looking for bling.
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Gsxr 1000 k1-4 swingarm into a slingshot frame
in Oil Cooled
Posted
The welds aren’t pretty, but the geometry works really well. I believe the Penske shock is for a K4 1K as well, but not positive. I think it uses the K4 linkage as well, but can’t remember and I’m out of town at the moment.